Thursday 9 December 2010

Directv - rc64, remote control


I cannot believe the number of people who don't read things before they buy. Of course this remote is not RF. The RF remote is an extra cost item when you buy a DirecTV receiver and YES the receiver is a LEASE item but they give it to you free when you sign up for service so what's the big deal. As to the remote control it works perfect and how can you beat $1.95 plus shipping? You can purchase it for $20 at Wal-Mart or from DirecTV for $15 plus shipping. At $1.95 each I bought two, one for my wife and one for me and they both work perfect. What a deal. DirecTV RC64 Universal Remote Control

Even though this item is listed on the Amazon site as a Universal RF remote, it is NOT RF capable. I spent thirty minutes trying to program it for RF before I finally called DirecTV and discovered that the RC64 is infrared only; the RC64R (the last R stands for RF) is the RF version, and that's not what is being sold here. If you need RF to work the unit in a cabinet, as I do, this remote is worthless.

I ordered this item ANTonline through Amazon. This item says it is a backlite RF reomte but what they sent was a plain RC64 that is exactly like the oem remote that comes in the box. If you really need a RC64RB which is backlite and radio operated I think you will better served to get it directly from directv for $25.00.



AMAZON was impressive taking care of this tranaction. Amazon made this right even though the shipper Antonline refused contact to deal with this issue. Nice job AMAZON!

this remote is not RF as advertised, it a plain IF and will not work if your receiver is in a cabinet. it came from Antonline. I notified Amanda, their service mgr. she asked for the upc code which i gave her that was weeks ago, so far I have heard nothing. have emailed her and am getting stoned walled. don't do business with this outfit. dshadoan

This remote is a nice compliment to my current remote for my Directv HDDVR RC23. It has larger buttons and is slightly bigger in general that the RC23 remote.

So the BAD thing is that the remote described on this page is not exactly what you will get. The remote I received is not RF capable and does not have a backlit keypad.

This was a replacement to the old one (RC32) which I had because the buttons wore off. This quickly was programmed with no issues. Excellent price at the time for this remote also. So worth it! Thanks

Look at something else if you are looking to replace your direct tv remote. Have had this for 2 months and hate it. That's why I'm here looking to purchase something else and could not resist warning others.



1. Flimsy top slide control. (First impression out of the box)

2. Too acute of an aim required. Really annoying.

3. A single pressing of a button will sometimes result in multiple button steps because you did not press the button "just right". EXTREMELY ANNOYING

4. Personal negative; I dislike how it will not sit flat. Rocks too easily.

5. Positive; better than no remote at all.

Word to the wise. Keep looking.

Had to replace 2 remotes because of the dog eating them... (and I do mean eating them, not just a couple chew marks, they were destroyed). DirectTV wanted $15 each plus shipping. I paid $6 each. Big savings, so I bought a few extra, just in case. This is the exact same model we got from the installer, works everything the same way. No instruction manual, but you can go on the All4One site & get all the codes you need to program this to work everything. Definitely worth the money!

I have two DirecTV receivers with identical looking remotes, except one is labelled RC64 and the other is labelled RC64R. Neither has an external antenna. Both work identically, except that RC64R has RF capability. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the RC64 to work when I went through the DirecTV RF setup (at the end of punching in the setup code, it tells you that if it doesn't now work as an RF remote, then you just have to use IR mode - nowhere does DirecTV tell you that some remotes aren't even capable of transmitting RF). Thankfully, I found a couple previous reviewers who noted the above difference. Otherwise, it's a decent, but not outstanding, remote. On the other hand, the RF feature of the RC64R is very useful, and it still controls my TV's volume, input and power using standard IR while controlling DirecTV receiver with RF (and RF is married to a specific receiver so it won't interfere with receivers in other rooms). - Remote - Rc64 - Remote Control - Universal Remote Control'


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Car Charger


I was really excited about the concept and creativity of this device. It does what it says it will do and successfully charges whatever items you insert into it. Items plug into the USB port fine, however, you really have to apply pressure to put plugs in and pull them out, same for when you insert the device in your lighter outlet. I am worried that eventually something is going to get jammed or break off. So handle with care when using. PowerCup 200/400 Watt Mobile Inverter with USB Power Port

This product works great! I like that it has USB and AC connections. I havent had to plug in more than one thing at a time, but I could see how there wouldnt be much room for two large plugs. The only negative for me would be the length of the cord. The beep when you unplug it is kind of annoying too, but I can deal with that.

We like to hike and travel a lot and we have run out of juice for our digital camera many times. We always ended up taking low quality pictures with our phones. This inverter solved those issues. Driving between places we charge our cameras and phones. Tried it twice so far and it has done the job. I have used all the ports at once and it works well.



The only con on this thing is its size. A smaller cup and wider top would have worked as well.'


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Video Games - cable, 1080p


[Anyone remembers the old "I am not going to spend a lot for this muffler" commercial?]



The 3 ft. is my favorite length to connect any electronics that happen to be very close to each other.



Just in case someone may feel guilty for not paying a lot more for a premium brand, it should be stated that at this length - 3 ft., you will get as good a service from a no-brand cable as you would from a super-expensive rip-off. An HDMI 1.3 cable should be able to carry, error free, all the signal your electronic equipment may put out.



The FUD campaign attempting to attract buyers toward the more expensive brands makes a series of claims. I will address them, as they may apply to this specific cable.



- Signal attenuation is less over a more expensive cable. - TRUE, BUT that's irrelevant on a 3 ft. length. The HDMI consortium stated that even the cables that were not 'certified' as 'Category 2' or 'High-Speed' will meet the requirements at lengths of 6 ft. or less. At 3 ft., it would be a waste to consider an 'expensive' alternative. In addition, the newer devices have sufficient processing power and are sensitive enough to properly interpret even the more ambiguous 'digits' they receive.



- The expensive cables are better engineered and their contacts are less likely to break. - TRUE, BUT how many times is one going to plug an HDMI cable in and out of an HDMI socket over the cable's lifetime? 5 times? 10 times? The 'better engineered' claim has no practical importance. If your cable works on 'day one' the odds are that it will be left in the back of your box for many month or years before it is unplugged and plugged back in. If this cable is purchased for home use, the 'better engineered' claim should not be of a major concern.



- The more expensive cables are 'future proof'. - NOT TRUE. Claims are made that, if you buy the more expensive wires you won't have to buy new ones when 'new standards' emerge because the more expensive wire will support them. This is untrue on 2 different levels. First, your cheap cable was purchased to work with some very specific devices which need HDMI 1.3 and will never support the 'new standard'. The new standards will be supported by new electronic devices but, for as long as you keep the existing ones, you will still need this cable to connect them. Second, the emerging HDMI 1.4 specs call for physically different connectors so, no matter how large a bandwidth the existing expensive cables may support, it won't matter because you still won't able to plug them into an HDMI 1.4 port so... there go your $5 or... there go your $200, depending on your having purchased a 'cheap' or a 'top of the line' HDMI cable.



________________________________________



Here are the HDMI 1.3 specs supported by both this cable and its more expensive alternatives.



Maximum signal bandwidth (MHz) 340

Maximum TMDS bandwidth (Gbit/s) 10.2

Maximum video bandwidth (Gbit/s) 8.16

Maximum audio bandwidth (Mbit/s) 36.86

Maximum Color Depth (bit/px) 48



Maximum resolution over single link at 24-bit/px 2560×1600p75

Maximum resolution over single link at 30-bit/px 2560×1600p60

Maximum resolution over single link at 36-bit/px 1920x1200p75

Maximum resolution over single link at 48-bit/px 1920×1200p60



sRGB

YCbCr

8 channel LPCM/192 kHz/24-bit audio capability

Blu-ray Disc video and audio at full resolution

Consumer Electronic Control (CEC)

DVD-Audio support

Super Audio CD (DSD) support

Deep Color

xvYCC

Auto lip-sync

Dolby TrueHD bitstream capable

DTS-HD Master Audio bitstream capable

Updated list of CEC commands (only on HDMI 1.3a,b,c)

________________________________________



My personal experience: I've never paid 'a lot' for an HDMI cable because it makes no sense to pay more. I took home one of the 'expensive' ones once because the salesman promised to take it back if I wasn't amazed by the difference. It made zero difference and I returned it. Premium HDMI-HDMI Cable (1 Meter / 3 FT)

When taking the plunge into the HDMI world, after investing a big chunk of money in an HDTV, it is hard to know if you need the "high priced" cable (read Monster) or a reasonably priced cable that performs exactly the same...this cable works great....picture quality on my LCD HDTV is so life-like, it is addictive to watch..

needed a couple of short hdmi cables to make my setup look a little cleaner. ordered these and couldnt be happier. they are very thick and well built cable. hooked both up to my ps3 and passed a 1080p blueray signal to my tv, looked absolutely stunning. dont let the price fool you, these cables are the real deal.

Having purchased both expensive HDMI cables (e.g., $50+ for 3M) and this product (about $10 including shipping for 1M), I can assure you that there is absolutely no difference between the quality of the video output on a 42" Hitachi 1080i. Also, you can rest assured that this product is a fairly heavy duty cable; it's not some flimsy, light weight cable that you might expect at this price point. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of this cable, and 1M is ideal for connecting a cable box or DVD player that are typically fairly close to your A/V receiver. - 1080p - Cable - Hdmi - Hdtv Cable'


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Personal Groomers - personal groomers, bikini trimmer


I had a similar product by Remington previously, but gave it to a friend and then wanted to replace it. This product is not as good as the Remington. It scratches uncomfortably, and does not give a smooth result. I wouldn't recommend it.

I was completely unsatisfied by the product I received. The trimmer was pink instead of the advertised silver and not only this but it had little pieces of hair on it when I took it out of the package.



I do not recommend buying from this seller.

It has been said that "You get what you pay for." The manufacturer would have to pay ME to use another one of these. It barely held together long enough to get a battery installed! Then it was worth the price of the battery. Save your money and the pain and grief: use tweezers. They are an improvement over this battery-powered hair plucker.

I bought mine more than 6 years ago and now it broke. Then I bought a Remington and hated it; the Remington stops working when the hair you are trimming is too long. Not to mention that it's not well manufactured and it seems to be too small for the battery; weird!!! I'm gonna give it away and purchase the Connair again! Never had any problems with my Conair ! - Facial - Conair - Personal Groomers - Bikini Trimmer'


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Kindle Reading Lights


I recently purchased the new M-Edge e-Luminator book light, even though there was nothing wrong with my older version. Thank goodness I still have my older book light, because the new one is quickly becoming an annoyance. The old light has a slide on and off switch and the new light has a recessed button on the light that you touch to turn on, with 3 different light strengths. When you want to turn the light off, you must touch it all 3 times and then hold it down the fourth time and the light will turn off. Unfortunately though, the light switch is so sensitive that it will turn on even if you don't touch the on button. After the book light does this to you about 30 or 40 times, you might find yourself annoyed and ready to go back to the older, slide switch on/off book light like me. I would recommend waiting to purchase until they have the 'bugs' worked out. M-Edge e-Luminator Kindle Booklight, Graphite (Compatible Only with 2nd and Latest Generation M-Edge Kindle Covers)

After many failed attempts at finding just the right light, I finally found it. This little light is amazing! It fits perfectly in my Kindle cover, has three different light settings, is adjustable and fits nicely in the cover when the cover is closed. Just what I was looking for!

The light works perfectly and fits perfectly into the M-Edge Trip Kindle Jacket I purchase. Although the case is not meant to have the light permanently attached like some other jackets which enclose the light within - I find the light itself takes up very little space so I simply fold it down an keep it with me day or night. As for how well it illuminate the kindle it does the job well and with its three different light levels you should have no problems reading anywhere any time.



On a side note: I'm from Toronto Canada and had to purchase the light from the ".com/USA" site not the ".ca" so it cost me a little extra but I find it was well worth it for the convince of the lights size compared to the choices that where available on other canadian sites.

I knew my husband would be getting me a Kindle 3 for Mother's Day, so I purchased M-Edge Latitude Kindle Jacket (Fits 6" Display, 2nd Generation Kindle), Red w/ Blackand the M-Edge e-Luminator Kindle Booklight, White (Compatible Only with 2nd and Latest Generation M-Edge Kindle Covers) (the older version of this book light) for my Kindle 2, because I planned to give that to my daughter. I purchased the M-Edge Latitude Kindle Jacket, Red (Fits 6" Display, Latest Generation Kindle) and this light for the new Kindle 3. I wanted the graphite light to match the graphite Kindle. If I'd realized then that this light was quite a bit different from the old light, I never would have purchased it.



Before Mother's Day, I used the Kindle 2 with the M-Edge e-Luminator Kindle Booklight, White (Compatible Only with 2nd and Latest Generation M-Edge Kindle Covers) for a few weeks. It was not perfect--a little bulky, maybe--but it worked well, and was a huge improvement over using an ordinary booklight that I couldn't attach to the Kindle or the case. It was bright enough and easy to position it so that there was enough light to illuminate the page.



I've tried using this new light for a few weeks now and have found it to be useless. As other reviews have mentioned, the on/off switch is touchy and annoying. I end up having to touch it several times to get it to turn on or off when I want it to, and yet, I find myself accidentally turning it on or off when I don't mean to.



Also as mentioned in other reviews, this new light is not bright enough. It's useless for reading in a very dark room. I read in bed at night while my husband is sleeping, so I need a light bright enough to illuminate the whole Kindle. Even in dim lighting, though, this light is dim enough that it makes no difference.



Another issue that I've had with this light is that the bendable part of the light is too short. The base of the light (where the AAA battery goes is less bulky than the old light, but to make up for this, it's also taller, so the bendable part of the light ends up being further away from the Kindle. When you combine the dimmer light with the shorter bendable thing, you cannot position this light to illuminate more than maybe the first few lines of the Kindle page. You *can* turn it so that the light is directly above the side of the Kindle instead of the top, but then you cannot open the case to *read* the Kindle. Even if you could, the light is so dim that it still isn't worth trying to find a workaround for that.



This light is a very poor design. I've already given the older light and case to my daughter with the Kindle 2, and I can't find the old version to buy. Amazon is out and so is every other online store I've checked. I'm stuck using my old book light that I have to either hold or set next to the Kindle (and it constantly falls over). At least it lights up the page and I can read.



I'm very disappointed in this light. I feel it was a complete waste of money. I also feel that the case was a waste of money, too, since I can't use it with this book light. I tried the old light with the new case for the Kindle 3 and it works just fine, so I'd be happy if I could find one to buy.'


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Kindle Reading Lights Kindle Reading Lights

Flash Diffuser - flash diffuser, photography


I have used this pop-up flash diffuser for a few days with my Nikon D90. It is working as advertised. Used under the correct circumstances, it will indeed diffuse flash output and lead to more evenly lit images than those produced without it. The quality of the product is so-so - it is made of molded plastic, and has a fairly cheap feel to it, but, of course, the price is quite low, so my expectations weren't very high to start with. The vendor sent me a box that was labeled as the 'Opteka' pop-up flash diffuser (not the 'Prolite' mentioned on the Amazon website). However, the product itself looks identical to that shown on Amazon.



The product has a few limitations that become apparent with use. It results in unevenly lit images under wide-angle conditions (none of the five possible screen positions will correct this), and it will not work well with very short distances between the camera and the subject). Finally, despite the TTL flash metering of the camera (which I presumed would compensate for the light loss produced by the diffuser), the flash on the camera has to be set to higher output values (+1EV) to result in lighting of the scene comparable to that achieved without the diffuser. Thus, with the diffuser, the flash's reach is actually substantially reduced.



Even with these limitations, this is a good product at a good price which makes the camera's on-board flash more usable. Opteka Soft Pop-Up SLR Flash Diffuser for Canon EOS, Nikon, Olympus, & Pentax On-Camera Flashes with White, Blue (Cooling), & Orange (Warming) Screens

I bought this for my Canon Rebel XT. Mine, too, came in a box marked Opteka. I am glad I bought this, as the product works fairly well and the price was reasonable. I used it to take some photos of my kids (in the stands) at a high school basketball game, where I know I couldn't bounce the flash with my speedlight. I was satisfied with the result of this pop-up diffuser. But, don't expect the kind of depth in your photos that you get from a speedlight. It just takes enough of the edge off the flash so that your images will look less flat than Uncle Lou's, who is not using a diffuser.



The product description says "Light loss is about 2/3 of a stop." Forget that. Even at a full stop, I thought the photos were underexposed. I ended up combining an exposure compensation (+1/3) with some flash compensation.



Update Feb 2011: I have upgraded to a Canon 50D and I tested the diffuser on that body. It fit fine and did not prevent the pop-up flash from engaging. Worked just fine. However, at least on other reviewer has commented that the mounting prevented the flash from popping-up on her 50D.

The first thing I did after receiving it was set up a test shoot, just like the person that posted the pics of the lamp on the sample images. I was skeptical that it would soften the shadow lines that much but it absolutely did, works perfectly. The key to it, is the little dimples and the curved surface. It diffuses light much better then a flat screen or paper. I do not intend to use the orange and blue diffusers. In fact I have plans to modify them for other uses (top secrete stuff). Also all of the similar diffusers like this one are all the same; they are just sold under different brand names. Just find the cheapest price and shipping combo between the different ones and get it. It's worth having, it takes up very little space in your bag, and it's cheap. It's by far the best option for diffusing a pop up flash. And it doesn't look ridiculous like some of the others. It's one of those "why didn't I think of this" type of products. I think those that got poor results have a weak internal flash to begin with. There's no fault in the product.

It's a plastic diffuser for the on-camera flash. It does decrease the intensity of the flash but that is expected with any diffuser. I purchased it to replace the paper I was using as a diffuser and freed up my hand. It's attached to my D90 and would recommend it to anyone else looking to soften the light on a on camera flash. This is not going to work like bouncing a flash off the ceiling, but it does a good job filling in.

You can achieve the same effect by putting a tissue paper over your internal flash, and it's MUCH more convenient, except it's just kind of ugly.

This thing doesn't stay on the camera firmly which irritates me. Whenever I rotate my camera, let's say for portrait shot, it slips right off immediately. VERY LOOSE.

I don't use it anymore after I got my external flash. I don't recommend people buying this product because it's a waste of 24 dollars. Spend it on bags or hand-straps, it's more worthy.

This product doesn't really soften the camera's onboard flash but blocks it.



The result is a weakened flash image, with some exposure in the center of the frame, but the dropoff to the edges creates a black, vignette effect.



That is not the effect I wanted, it's too unnatural. - Photography - Flash - Flash Diffuser - Soft'


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Flash Diffuser - flash diffuser, photography soft Flash Diffuser - flash diffuser, photography

Digital Audio Cable - cable connectors, audio cables


The price on this item was great, however when I tested it in my car with my iphone I found that it only works correctly if you do not move the cable/plugs while in use. After plugging it in, as soon as I moved my iphone to set it down the sound started to cut out. I then tried to test it by wiggling the plugs on both ends, and it appears that the plugs aren't sturdy enough to make a good connection with either device. I currently have a Dynex brand cable for my car for this purpose and it works great with no issues....when it is plugged in, no matter how much you move the cord or plugs the sound stays strong and doesn't cut out...it is much thicker and the plugs much sturdier than this cable which I believe to be the reason it works so much better. This cable was going to be for our boat stereo, however I went ahead and ordered the Dynex cable for just a couple dollars more and will trash this one....not worth sending back for the cost. Hope this information helps anyone who is considering buying this item. Professional Cable ST35MM-06 Stereo 3.5mm 6-ft M/M Cable - Black

Upon measuring the cord, I found that it was truly on 5 feet long, which isn't a big deal for my purposes, but may be an issue for others looking to purchase. Other than that, it is a good product at a good price.

I have had this now for a few weeks. The moment I took it out of the package and hooked it to my stereo i knew there was a problem. My reason for buying this was to use to connect my ipod to my stereo. At first I thought maybe a speaker was out. But no, i started to move the cord around when moving my ipod and the music was cutting in and out. Now I have to sit there and move it around until it finally works. I wouldn't recommend this unless you have extra time on your hands....

You know what they say, "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is". The cable is thick and the connections look substantial, but looks can be deceiving. The connections are poor, resulting in that awful crackling sound that is made while you twist the connection trying to get the sound to come through clearly. I tried it with two different IPods and the problem remained. For the price, less than $3.00, it was not an expensive mistake, but it was still a mistake.

These cables do not work well. When I took it out of the package I was not impressed with the thickness of the wire. They seem very cheaply made. Considering the price, I guess it's not surprising. It wouldn't be a big deal if the cable actually worked. The sound is intermittent when connecting my mp3 player to my car stereo. The wire needs to be bent a certain way for the sound to work. I will be throwing it away and purchasing a different cable.

Works just as i wanted to. I have a cable like this before but it wasnt long enough so i got this in a longer length. I connect my computer to the back of my Sony Bravia 40" HDTV and I have an optic cable from my tv to my Sony 7.1 AV receiver so i get the surround sound from my receiver for all the programs i run on my computer. Lots of different uses for this cable, not just for headphones, ipods or mp3s. Enough said.

I bought this so I could connect my MP3 play to my vehicle's sound system. The cord feels durable even though it seems "thin". The rubber feels very strong, but it is flexible unlike thicker, traditional audio cords, which allows for easier folding to get it out of the way. The sound quality is superb through it. - Digital Audio Cable - Cable Connectors - Audio Cables - Ipod Cable'


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Video Production - adaptors, audio


This cable can be used to connect an rca input to a 3.5mm aux port. I have a pair of computer speakers with a 3.5mm aux port that accepts external audio inputs. I connected the rca input from my Playstation 2 to the 3.5mm port on the speakers, and it plays my Playstation audio just fine. RiteAV - 3.5mm to RCA Stereo Female Cable - 6 inch

The 3.5mm jack is pretty fat and durable looking, as are the cables and RCA connectors. Pretty simple and useful thing, it converts 3.5mm stereo sound into RCA and it does just that. The price is great; something like this would cost much more at a store.

Audio quality on this thing is great. What else is there to say? Great job.



I should say that I bought this thing after buying one of those EasyCap A/V-to-USB video capture cards and noticed that the audio was miserable. A perfect fix with Audacity running alongside the video without any lag.

I have to assume that Eforcity runs a monopoly on these things, seeing as how he is undercutting like every store in Dayton Ohio! The cable got here FAST..really fast actually. It works perfectly with my Sabrent TV Tuner card..So yeah cheap, and easy!

I used this cable on my 360 paired with the VGA adapter and connected it to my monitor, the audio quality is more than good enough to play with, works exactly as described.

TIP: pair this cable with male/male RCA cables and you can connect your mp3 player/ipod to the 3.5mm jack and the other side to your reciever or other audio device.

Fast shipping 3 days which was not expected.

This pigtail will come in handy to have and is cheap enough to have an extra when needed.

I bought this for my TV which doesn't demand much volume.



The gauge wire appears to be 18 Gauge, which is fine for short runs. For good stereo the gauge should be at least 16 to 14 gauge (The lower the number, the better for current draw, also the more

volume is demanded, the greater the current draw, so for TV it will do just fine, but if your stereo is 10 to 20 feet away, I would seriously consider a heaver gauge wire; your speakers will thank you.



This cable length is 6" and because it is only six inches the size wire is not of great concern, as long as the longer cable you attach to it is at least 14 to 16 gauge (even 12 stranded), or you may weaken your stereo components. Warning: Do Not use this pigtail on a woofer base driver.



This cable is sold at a great price for lower volume devices and such, you can't beat the shipping service, the cost and the usage for which it is intended. - Adaptors - Audio - Cable - Adapters'


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Usb Printer Cable - printer cable, usb cables


I am not sure why anyone would buy ANY cable from a box store. The stores will put the cable in a pretty box and then charge you 5X the price you could buy them on Amazon. The Mediabridge USB Printer cable is a perfect example - it works great and offers all of the performance of the MUCH more expensive cables that are offered at the retail stores. Mediabridge offers gold plated connection that work great I am using a set on my printer!



Final Verdict - I would recommend never buying any type of cable at a box store - there is money to saved!



5 Stars Mediabridge - Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Cable (6 Feet)

I use a Canon classImage printer which didn't come with a printer cable, so I ordered this one online seeing as it was very inexpensive and Amazon Prime gave me free shipping. The printer cable came very quickly and worked perfectly with my printer. No complaints!

These cables by Mediabridge are realistically priced and quality made. When you look at at stores like Best Buy and see what they charge for cables, you realize the tremendous markup. Have used 3 different cables from them-HDMI, coaxial and printer cable- all worth the price.

I ordered this cable as a replacement for my HP Photosmart Printer. It arrived in very secure packaging and it perfect condition. The length is great and it connected to my computer perfectly. The cable seems pretty sturdy and it does it's job well. I chose the 2 day shipping and it actually arrived in 1 day so I was very pleased at how fast I got it.

This isn't the only Mediabridge cable I have ever purchased. I also bought the Mediabridge HDMI cable, and I am completely satisfied with their quality construction. Mediabridge is giving Belkin a run for their money. Can you believe that similar cables are $20 at Walmart? Note to Self: Buy all your cables on Amazon, and you'll save a fortune! - Usb Cables - Usb Cable - Printer Cable - Usb'


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Microwave Popcorn Popper - popcorn popper, healthy eating


This gadget has really hooked us on popcorn as a snack. We had been getting wonderful microwave popcorn from Yoder Popcorn (on the Web), but it got expensive. Then I noticed that they said that the Presto popper could be used with any of their bulk popcorn -- at much lower cost. What amazed us was how much better their already outstanding popcorn tasted with the Presto! And the ability to make it with the oil of our choice (we like olive oil) or no oil at all is a great bonus. Entering "presto powercup concentrator" in Google turned up a number of sources (including Amazon) for this essential insert -- we ordered ten packs to save on shipping and are sure we will use them in a reasonable time.The size is great for us -- just about as much as a standard microwave pack per popperful. I do not see it as very feasible for more than four or maybe six people at a time, however.While the Powercups do add to the cost, it still is cheaper than the microwave packs. Using the Yoder popcorn as an example (since the same popcorn is available either in bulk or microwave packs) and assuming that one gets 3 pops per Powercup (half of what Presto says is feasible) the cost comes out about as follows:Premium white or yellow popcorn, 3.5 oz = $0.13Olive oil, 0.5 oz = 0.10Powercup = 0.08Amoritization of popper = 0.02Total = $0.33By contrast, a 3.5 oz microwave pouch of the same popcorn costs $0.65 in bulk.Actual final costs will be greater for both due to shipping charges, of course, but these do not favor one over the other.Will O'Neil



I *love* this device! I experimented with it in my particular microwave and learned that the standard load of 1/3 cup of popcorn (you can use *any* kind) cooks perfectly at 3 minutes, 12 seconds. Any less than that, and some of the kernels don't pop. Any more than that and some kernels begin to burn. The directions say you can use oil inside it, but I don't, because I want the little cardboard inserts to last a long time. I empty the popcorn into a different bowl, then I melt butter in the microwave (3 tbsp. is about right), pour it over the popcorn, add salt and stir well. You can also pour anything else you want over the popcorn, like parmesan or other dried, grated cheese, or herbs and spices. The popcorn this device produces is really, really tasty. Far better than that from microwave popcorn packets, and without the horribly unhealthy trans fats they add to them, too.

We needed to eliminate the high fat, high salt content of microwave popcorn but didn't want another counter-top appliance. The popper makes good popcorn, but you will need to find a source for the cardboard inserts (called concentrators) in your neighborhood ...

I've had my Presto popper for about 2 years now. I make a lot of popcorn with this popper. I fully admit that I am lazy. I love the fact that the bowl and cover are dishwasher safe. And you don't need that concentrator cup if your microwave is decently powered (yes, you'll end up with a few more unpopped kernels, but you won't have to wipe off the paper insert). Also, I love adding extra thin pats of butter during the last 30 seconds to get super-tasty buttered popcorn without dirtying another dish. (Again, the lazy factor.) My roommate's microwave is not powerful enough for this popper, but that microwave has issues with frozen meals and always requires additional time on things like that. But if your microwave is not a wimp you'll love this popper!

I bought this because I love popcorn and heard that this is an easy, cheap way to have it. With this popper, you have the option to use or not use oils and it makes about 10 cups of popcorn per batch. I've used this numerous times since I've bought it and have few complaints.The only downside that I can think of is that it comes with replaceable inserts that you have to use in order to use the popper. They inserts *are* reusable, but they do wear out after a few uses. So, it is NOT a one-time investment, but rather an on-going expense. This is not a huge drawback, but I do think it is something to consider. I think it's still cheaper than buying microwave popcorn, and much healthier, since you eat only what you add to the popcorn.All in all, I do not regret buying my popper. I put in 1/3 cup of kernels, 2 tablespoons of butter and the popcorn is just delicious. The kids love to use it, too.

I've had my Presto popcorn popper for a couple of years. Yes, purchasing the powercup concentrators is an inconvenience, I just order several packs and each pack contains 8 so I still have a way to go until they run out. The GOOD thing about this popcorn maker is that I can use OLIVE OIL which is a good fat and low sodium salt (Salt Sense) because I have high blood pressure and still end up with a GREAT tasting popcorn that is really healthy and actually good for me. I pop a bowlful every morning and put it in a container and take it to work and munch on it throughout the day. I even take it to the movies (yes I have to "smuggle" it in) so that I can enjoy popcorn like everyone else, but not worry about the fat or salt content. My microwave has a "POPCORN" button on it. I put the Presto corn popper in the micro, hit the "POPCORN" button and the microwave cooks it by sensor and the popcorn comes out perfect...never scorched and with only a few old maids. This is the only corn popper that truly allows me to make popcorn "MY WAY" and always yields delicious, tender popcorn. - Popcorn - Air Popper - Popcorn Popper - Healthy Eating - Popcorn Poppers - Popcorn Maker'


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Waterproof Digital Camera - underwater digital camera, weatherproof


Just took the new camera on a white water rafting trip down the Grand Canyon. Clearly the camera met the specs for water tightness and shock ability as this type of trip had both. Pictures were of low quality, with little ability to handle a mix of shadows and light. Shutter is slow and unresponsive to the moment. In bright sunshine, or very low evening light, the lack of a view finder rendered most pictures a pure guess. Controls at the top of the camera for on/off and snapping the picture were too low a profile to allow for handling in tough situations. Worst of all was dismal battery life--only able to get about 100-125 pictures, while carefully turning the camera off in between, before battery was exhausted. Overall--very disappointing. Fujifilm FinePix XP10 12 MP Waterproof Digital Camera with 5x Optical Zoom and 2.7-Inch LCD (Green)

I got this camera to replace my previous underwater / shockproof Canon D10, which died after about 8 months for no apparent reason. When I got the D10, it was the only low-cost point-and-shoot I could find for light underwater use, which made it good in its own way, but the electronics and sensor and etc. were already a couple of years out of date on the Canon, plus it was really big and bulky.



I don't do serious underwater work, but do want a camera I can take out in the rain and occasionally in a swimming pool or to the beach, without worrying about it. Also with small kids, the likelihood of a camera getting dropped is high, so a sturdy model is key.



This little Fujifilm advertises the same kind of water- and shock-proof characteristics as the Canon, but it's a whole lot more modern in its features, and a whole lot smaller, which is great. I haven't used it underwater yet, but for everyday use it takes good pictures.



A few issues I have with it. One, the cable connector is nonstandard. It should be mini-USB, like so many other things - I keep a mini USB hanging off my computer anyway, and if I lose a mini USB cable it's easy to find another, vs. the Fuji cable which doesn't match anything else I own.



Second, the mechanicals are not quite as polished as I'd like. The waterproof cover for the cable connector doesn't seat well - it's very hard to get in. And the battery cover has a strange hinge device that was confusing to figure out and I fear will not last well, since I have to open it frequently to extract the memory card, because the cable connector is nonstandard and hard to reseal.



All in all I would still recommend this camera, and I hope these few flaws get corrected in a future model.

Took the Fuji XP10 out twice; once camping at Lake Tahoe and again at Kern River. The Fuji functioned well on the first outting, but started developing problems on the latter camping trip: moisture started developing in the lens area, causing photos to appear foggy. The display became disrupted, as the moisture that permeated the camera began to make it's way through the housing.



I sent the Fuji XP10 back to Fuji in hopes of getting it replaced, but received an invoice stating, "Water damage in camera not covered under warranty."



Um, no kidding.



The invoice also requested a payment of approximately $118 for an exchange of the same camera, with $100 of the cost going towards "labor"... Labor for what?!?! That's like buying a new XP10 with a little over a $20 discount over what I paid originally!



What's the point of marketing a "waterproof" camera, when it's not really waterproof and Fuji won't even honor the warranty to make things right? It would serve Fuji well to learn from other companies that unconditionally back the products that they sell, like Pelican Products and Strider Knives. Don't claim your product is waterproof, freezeproof, dustproof, and shockproof, unless you can back your product under warranty. I'm going to pass on Fuji's offer to exchange my camera for the $118 fee, which I can use towards an Olympus Tough camera! ;-)



As clean and compact as the Fuji XP10 appears, I will suggest to potential buyers of this camera to spend the extra money for the Olympus Tough series, which I am now considering. The Olympus Tough series may not be aesthetically pleasing as the Fuji XP10, but, like the AK-47 and Glock, the Olympus will probably work.



Buy the Fuji XP10 at your own risk.

I bought this camera for the waterproof feature, for beach and snorkeling photos. I took it to the beach and within 30 minutes it broke. The camera was never more than 2 feet underwater and it never hit anything. Water began leaking in the back display screen and the camera stopped functioning. Water also got in the front lens area and battery. Fortunately I was able to get the photos I had taken off the memory card.



Picture quality was really nice and the display screen size is large for easy viewing. But if you plan on taking it in the water I suggest buying a different camera. - Digital Camera - Underwater Digital Camera - Waterproof Camera - Weatherproof'


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Blueproton - scumbag, thief


For anyone out there who is considering whether or not to make the leap and purchase the iPad 2, this review is for you. If you're still debating between the iPad 1 and the iPad 2 check out my review of the first generation iPad right here on Amazon to see a discussion of its strengths and weaknesses with a number of people commenting (both positively and negatively) over the past 11 months.



Let me begin by saying this upfront, I don't work for Apple, I don't own Apple Stock, and whether you buy an iPad, Xoom, a laptop or a pad of paper and pencil I don't get anything for writing this. I'm not an Apple "fanboy" although I can give credit where credit is due and lately Apple has deserved a lot of credit for some of their products.



Physical Characteristics

The iPad 2 is absurdly thin. More importantly than it's thinness is its tapered edge which feels more natural in your hand. One of the biggest complaints about the original iPad was it really wasn't tremendously comfortable to hold for long periods at a time. For a tablet device designed to be held, that's a pretty big deal. Apple really has done an amazing job of cramming everything into an even smaller space than before and the difference is really noticeable when you're holding the device. In addition to the tapered edge, Apple managed to reduce the overall weight of the iPad 2. That might not seem like a huge deal to most, especially when you consider the weight difference isn't tremendous when you're already under 2 pounds, but I spend a good part of my day holding the iPad in my hands and the weight difference is surprising by the end of the day. The first generation isn't heavy by any means, but the iPad 2 outshines it.



New and "Improved"

Apple doubled the RAM in the iPad 2 from 256MB to 512MB. What does that mean? For most casual users, probably not a whole lot. There is a performance bump that everyone will see the effects of in things like loading times for webpages that are open in the background, but 256MB was sufficient for most daily use and games. If you're planning to use your device for some of the more graphically intense games the iPad 2 does offer a better method of graphics processing that'll help deliver faster images with fewer jerky movements. If you're just playing Angry birds and reading e-mail you're not going to know the difference.



The screen is the same for all real purposes. It is technically a "new" part in that it isn't identical to the old, it's a bit thinner and more efficient, but it's the same resolution. The Glass is thinner though, and this amounts to a fair bit of the weight loss from one generation to the next. In playing with the device it seems surprising but despite feeling lighter it actually feels more sturdy in your hands. I still wouldn't suggest dropping it, but if it were to fall the iPad 2 certainly feels like it might stand a better chance to survive. Try not to drop it though.



The addition of 2 cameras was expected. Some were a bit surprised to see the first generation released without the cameras. Whether it was for a price point consideration, or a means to get people to upgrade, Apple held off until iPad 2. The cameras do a reasonable job, but they're not going to replace a dedicated digital camera, or really even the camera on your phone for most still images. The cameras do a substantially better job with video, and FaceTime is probably one of the best reasons to get the iPad 2 over the original iPad. For those who might not be familiar, FaceTime is Apple's face to face conferencing system, kind of like Skype, or if you'd rather, kind of like the Jetson's TV/Phone. With the push of a button you can be having a face to face chat with a loved one just about anywhere in the world (provided they're on a wireless network at the time). FaceTime doesn't work over 3G natively (it can be used over a wifi connection created by a 3G device however) so you're not going to be able to use it in your car anytime soon. This is probably a good thing though. It is incredibly easy to use and if you know other people with an iPad 2, iPhone 4, or Mac it's a lot of fun.



Smart Covers aren't really "smart" but they're really very useful. Not only do they provide a stylistic enhancement of the device, but they serve a practical and functional purpose of doubling as a screen protector and stand in 2 configurations. You can find them in a variety of colors and from third market suppliers, and it's a safe bet that more will be out soon to capitalize on the magnetic sensors in the iPad 2. It's unfortunate that this same feature can't somehow be retrofitted to the iPad 1, I wouldn't have thought a case would be a compelling reason to consider a product over it's competitor, but these covers are really so useful it's hard to understand why they've not been there since the beginning.



Multitasking Support

One of the biggest knocks against the iPad when first released was the lack of native multi-tasking support. Jailbreakers added the feature quickly and Apple soon realized it would be a requirement for any future device's success and released an OS update that included the feature. The iPad 2 capitalizes on that progress and takes it a step further with the increased RAM enabling more open applications to be suspended at once, and the time to open or close an application has improved as well. That said, even the first generation managed to open and close apps faster than most people would be used to on their computers, so while this is an improvement it's more akin to showing off.



Apps

One thing that Apple has clearly the advantage in for the moment is app availability. The App store has close to 70,000 iPad specific Apps, all of which will work on the iPad 2. The new cameras will undoubtedly see this list expand rapidly, as will the inclusion of a gyroscope for gaming and motion based uses. There are also a substantial number of professional applications ranging from document creation to photo editing and vector drawing. Chances are if you can dream it, there's an App for that (and if not you might want to get started on one to fill in the gap). The Android market is making a strong showing, and ultimately it'll likely be a strong competitor, for now it still has a ways to go, but any potential buyer should consider the strength of the application market before buying a tablet.



Pros:

Weight. Seriously. The minimal weight of this thing is by far the most impressive feature about it in my opinion. It seems to defy physics and logic that so much could be in such a small space working that hard for that long.



Battery Life. From full to dead my iPad 2 went just over 11 hours with the movie Robin Hood showing twice during that time, the screen at half brightness, wifi turned on, an Angry Birds marathon and a good portion of a book in ibook. That's better than a work day and that's constantly on.



Books. This is definitely a Pro, but reading itself could go either way. The great benefit to the iPad is having access to Google Books, ibook, Nook, and Kindle. This allows for some comparison shopping and price competition (although for the most part they're all usually about the same). Reading in the evenings in bed is great as the back light means you don't have to worry about keeping others awake, but the glass screen causes some glare trouble when trying to read outside or near a sunny window. If you're an avid outdoor reader the Kindle might still be your best bet.



Cons:

Still no dedicated USB support. While there is a camera add-on that allows for certain USB devices to be used there is no option for mass storage. Some of the Android Tablets allow for this and if you find yourself wanting to use your tablet as a standalone storage device this might be something to consider. The device can read from certain flash drives though, but is largely limited to photo and video files. Jailbreaks offer solutions to this, but those come with their own issues as well.



Still no dedicated SD card slot. This is troublesome on two fronts. First, if you want to import pictures from your camera you have to have an adapter which is just one more thing to carry around. Second, the lack of expansion means you're limited to what you purchase in terms of storage. I purchased a 32GB iPad last time and never filled it up completely, so for me capacity wasn't an issue. If you want to be able to have your entire movie collection with you though... you may want to consider whether the iPad 2 can meet your space requirements.



HDMI output. Really this is a Pro and a Con. The iPad does allow for HD output over HDMI but again it requires an adapter. All of these adapters are additional purchases for features that some tablets offer built in. This can be a pain, but then again if you're not likely to ever use HDMI Output then you're not paying for something you won't use.



No Flash Support. This is becoming less and less of an issue as the internet and web developers are moving away from Flash for many websites, but there are a lot still out there relying on Adobe's Flash to run properly (including a lot of web based games). Before you pick a tablet consider what kind of websites you frequent and try and determine if they are Flash driven or not. If they are you may really want to consider something from the Android offerings as it is expected that they'll have at least some Flash support.





If you're in the market for a tablet device the iPad 2 should definitely be on your short list. If you're uncertain it is always best to go and play with these things hands on first if you can. Best Buy is a good place for that, so are Verizon Stores since they have the Xoom and 3G iPad. Don't get pulled into the hype and mania that comes with an Apple release. They're exciting and new, and they're impressive enough to warrant some excitement, but it will die down and there will be other products that prove a strong competitor to the iPad 2. If you're looking for right now though, this is probably your best bet. I gave the device 4 stars, as I did the iPad 1. I did this in contemplation of the features offered by competitors that are absent from the iPad, most notably the requirement for adapters for USB/SD/HDMI. While these features are there, they aren't as convenient as in other tablets. With that in mind I firmly believe that the iPad more than makes up for this in usability, reliability, and design and in those areas far exceeds its current competitors. Apple iPad 2 MC979LL/A Tablet (16GB, Wifi, White) NEWEST MODEL - Thief - Scumbag - Blueproton - Apple'


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Dir-615 - router, d-link


This is a very good router, but I had issues during setup. I have Qwest DSL and the DIR-615 wizard setup couldn't auto-configure the router to provide internet service.



Most routers use an intranet address in the range of 192.168.x.x and then devices connected to the router are assigned within that ip range. I finally manually played with the settings and still couldn't get it to work. Frustrated, I called Qwest thinking the problem was with the DNS values. That assumption was incorrect and generally Qwest DSL requires no tweaking at the router level. Qwest DSL tech support was great. They said it was a setup issue with the router and called Dlink's tech team on a Sunday morning and we had a 3-way call. Dlink's technician had me fixed up in 3 minutes.



Here's what worked for me. Under the router's 'network settings' we set the router IP address to 172.16.0.1 and the subnet mask to 255.255.0.0. If not checked, enable "DHCP Server". Under 'Wireless' set the Channel to 11 and the Mode to "Mixed" to support 802.11b,g,n. I set security to WPA-Personal. Be sure to save the configuration and this will cause the router to reboot. If things don't work immediately, unplug the modem to cold-start the system, wait a minute and finally plug in the router.



Contrary to what someone wrote in a review, this router does indeed support wireless-N devices in a mixed environement and does not downstep to G for the whole network.



Remember, you can't setup the router via wireless. You have to use an ethernet cable from your pc to port #1 on the router. Another cable runs from the router Internet port to the dsl modem.



Before calling tech support, first confirm that the modem is working. Run a cable from the pc to the modem and confirm you can browse the Internet. With the modem eliminated as an issue, the tech people can quickly help you configure the router. I'm using Vista and the setup process did not require any Windows firewall changes so keep the firewall 'On'.



I may be wrong but here's what I think the core setup problem was for me. The Qwest DSL modem uses a DHCP Default Gateway of 192.168.0.1. This is the same IP the Dlink router attempts to use as its address. Thus you end up with an IP addresss conflict since both can't use the same address. The Dlink technician changed the router address to a different subnet in 172.16.x.x and eliminated the conflict. D-Link DIR-615 Wireless N Router, 4-Port

I'm writing this review to help dispel the myths about this router. I read many bad reviews for this router after I ordered it. I got really anxious and started getting buyer's remorse, before I even had it in my hands. I received the DIR-615 today and immediately hooked it up, I transfered all the cables from my D-Link 'b' wireless router. I restarted my Time Warner Cable Modem and my Mac G4 computer. Everything worked fine. I checked the wi-fi connection to my iMac, which worked perfect, after I changed the network selection on the iMac. I then took my Titanium G4 Powermac to the second floor (the DIR-615 is setup in the basement). I got perfect reception 2 flights up. After checking all Wi-Fi functionality, I upgraded the firmware, from ver. 2.2 to 2.4 via D-Link's web site, all is well. no problems.

This is an attractive router. I found it easy to set up, it has up-to-date security features and works well (except for the 802.11N issue)



My problem with this router is that if you have any 802.11G devices in your network, then the network will run at G speeds, period (says customer support.) I have one network device that is 802.11G and non-upgradeable. I bought this router with a DLink 802.11N PCMCIA card to get my laptop running at 802.11N, however, the router will not talk N to the card in the laptop, because I have a G device on my network. Thus, while the router is now doing a fine job as an 802.11G router, I might as well throw the PCMCIA card away.



DLink's web site says of the DIR-615 router that "Not only does D-Link's Wireless N technology extend your wireless range, it also works with your existing 802.11g wireless devices." It would be nice if DLink fessed up that mixed-mode doesnt work as expected. That factoid is hidden in a FAQ on the page for the PCMCIA card. I had to call customer support to learn this. They say there are no plans to upgrade the firmware to truely support mixed mode environments.

I bought this router and, after the fact, was curious to see how it was rated on Amazon. I was surprised to see so many negative reviews on here. I don't normally write reviews, but I just wanted to clarify some points raised in other reviews on here.



First, many of these reviews, both good and bad, were written one to two years ago. The latest firmware has resolved some of the complaints I've seen on here. One complaint was that it was not possible to use the fast N connection if you simultaneously have G devices running. In other words, having one G device connected to the router forced any other N capable devices to run at G speed. While that may have been a problem in the past, the latest firmware has made it possible to have both types of devices running simultaneously at their respective speeds.



Set up was REALLY, REALLY easy. I didn't even use the Quick Install CD that came with it. I had my desktop (wired connection), two laptops, Vonage, a Wii, and a PS3 all set up to run on this router in less than 20 minutes.



I've also seen complaints that the router gets too hot. This has not been my experience with it. I've had other D-Link routers before that got really hot, but this one's fine.



It's a really good router and a killer value at $49.95. If you have a handful of devices, want to do some online gaming wirelessly, stream Netflix to your TV, surf the internet, etc. then this router is an excellent choice. - D-link - Dir-615 - Dlink - Router'


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