Friday, 29 July 2011

Plantronics Explorer 220 - plantronics, plantronics bluetooth


The Plantronics Explorer 220 Bluetooth headset is cheap, light, and easy to pair with a cell phone. That's about it.



Unfortunately, there are a lot more negative things with this unit that keeps me from recommending it.



-it feels as cheap as it costs;

-the transmission is weak (sometimes the person on the other line cannot hear me, and vice versa),

-often times drops the bluetooth connection,

-there are unwanted noise (humming, clicking, etc.) through the earpiece

-the ear hook hurts my ear, no matter which side I use it

-sometimes it "accidentally" turns on when in my pocket (when the button gets slightly pressed, it turns on) and I run out of battery juice in the middle of a call



I've gone through three of these units from three different sources, and they all have the same problems. So it is not an issue of just getting a bad item at one time.



Overall, I cannot recommend it. I gave it two stars because I do not usually talk on the phone for more than a minute at a time, and this is sufficient half of the time.



I've resorted to an older bluetooth headset, the Motorola HS850 Bluetooth Headset (Color Sent Based on Availability. Comes in Black, Blue and Grey, or Silver)[Bulk Packaged]. I know when it is on/off when the microphone boom is out/in. The soft rubber ear hook is gentler to my sensitive ear, and I've never had a problem with poor signal or dropped connections. Plantronics Explorer 220 Bluetooth Headset (Black, US)

A very mediocre headset. Cannot maintain a clear connection without being a couple inches near the phone. At longer distances, sound quality is filled with pops, and distortion, making it hard to listen to the person your calling. Personally, with all the issues with these headsets, it would be better to find a better deal on a higher end bluetooth headset.

I have an iPhone and wanted to have an option for getting rid of the wired headset mic + headphones. Even in a quiet room, the volume on mine does not get loud enough to be able to hear the other side very well, and the people on the other end of the line can not hear you either. It is literally unusable.



I have had other Plantronics in the past and been happy with them (until I lost, washed, or wore them out). Spend more money and get a better model.

The Plantronics 220 just doesnt work. It pairs, it connects, and it gives you a static filled connection even when holding the phone in your hand more than two feet away. Just garbage. The plantonics Voyager 510 - now THATS a headset-- can leave a phone thirty feet away and it goes through two walls in that distance. The 220- garbage. Also, beware buying so called Motorola bluetooth earpieces on a 'bay auction site. They are mostly counterfeit and work just as poorly as a real Plantronics 220.

This is one awesome Headset. Don't worry about what anyone with a bad rating says. There is just something on their phone that is not capable with this headset. I mean what are these users talking about. This thing is so simple especially for my awesome PS3. Totally an awesome headset. I hope that you will like it too. Either way I don't understand why these guys have bad ratings. It's crazy. I love this headset absolutely love it! If you buy this you'll be pleased!

Thats the truth. Dropped one in my pool, the toilet,left at TSA. Now I'm getting one for my cousin and replacing mine. Great product. Works in other rooms. I have a 2 br apt and I can here it as long as my phone isn't charging in the kitchen.

The best thing about these headsets is that they are obsolete and this creates grounds for hope that you will not be able to find one soon.



My issue is just that for the fairly many Plantronics users whose posts on the web indicate: the things die after a very short lifespan and will not turn on after a night on their charger. 220 might be a particularly bad reliability unit, but that is what I was searching for, of course.



Lasted all of two charge cycles for me.



Not very comfortable. Sound was poor. - Headset - Bluetooth - Plantronics - Plantronics Bluetooth'


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64 Bit - midi to usb


I play an Alesis Micron which I love, and wanted a quick easy connection to my laptop to play GarageBand samples live. Unfortunately the cable doesn't seem to play; as a "driverless" connector there's nothing to install, and it doesn't work.



If Alesis actually had customer-support contacts on their website I'll bet this problem could be solved. Instead, I'm going back to my M-Audio Midiman interface until Alesis sorts this out. Too bad, $50 down the drain. Don't waste your money. Great idea for a product.



Hey Alesis, let me know if this review bothers you. It's only the truth. Alesis USB-MIDI Cable AudioLink Series MIDI-to-USB Cable

I bought this to connect my Roland keyboards to my laptop(PC.)

Works great has lighted indicators for transmission of information confirmation and is simple and clean.

No problems at all.

Good product.

I was unsure whether this cable would work with Windows 7 64 bit (I am using Ultimate, but I'm assuming other 64 bit versions of 7 work the same), but I was pleasantly surprised to see that Windows was able to automatically install drivers for it. It works!



There are no instructions that come with this cable and I found I had to plug the Midi Out into my Micron's Midi In and the In into the Out.



The only software I've used so far with it is Synthesia and a demo version of Arturia's software-based synth, but both worked. There's a red LED in the USB plug that flashes when there is a signal, which is a nice touch.



I'm giving this product a 4/5 rating as I feel the price is a bit high for just a cable and also for the lack of instructions. (Maybe everyone knows that Out goes into In, but I didn't...) Actually, what I did was save it in my cart and kept watching the price -- Amazon dropped the price (it seems just temporarily), so I bought it. - Midi To Usb'


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Usb Card Reader - all-in-one, usb card reader


I do not like the software that comes with many digital cameras that forces you to connect the camera to your computer to transfer your photos. The card reader built into my computer does not read the newer SDHC cards, so I needed an external card reader.



Installation could not have been simpler: plug one end of the supplied mini-USB cable to the reader and the other to your computer. Wait until a message shows the device is ready and you are done. No drivers to install, no setup program, just plug it in and you are done. The small size allows it to easily fit into a laptop case for travel or share with other computers at home.



Despite what some people have posted about this reader not working properly with their operating system, mine is performing flawlessly with Vista. What is more, I find this reader is faster than the one built into my computer.



Strongly suggested for fans of digital cameras and other devices with removable memory cards. As a bonus, it can also read the micro-SD card from my GPS without needing to find that pesky adapter that is always getting lost. SanDisk ImageMate All-in-1 Flash Memory Card Reader

I recently purchased a Canon Vixia HF100 camcorder and knew the files would be HUGE, so I was looking for the fastest SD card download set up I could find.



I initially bought the Lexar Pro UDMA Dual-Slot Reader and a SanDisk 16GB Extreme III 30MB/s SDHC card hoping for at least 20MB/s performance.



Alas, the Lexar reader only gave me 10MB/s performance on this SDHC card (see re-test later for 18MB/s)



So I then purchased this SanDisk All In One Reader (SDDR-189-A20) and I achieve 17MB/s, which is much faster than I ever had before, however no where near the 30MB/s advertised.



According to [...]:

Unlike the ImageMate Multi-Card reader, the ImageMate All-in-One doesn't include support for the proprietary data timing mode found in SanDisk's Extreme III 30MB/s Edition SDHC. This means it doesn't deliver an extra speed boost when paired with one of these specific cards.



So I then purchased the Multi-Card reader (SDDR-199-A20), which is basically a 1 slot version of the 3 slot SDDR189.



On my Dell XPS600 with Windows XP SP3 with Norton IS2009 turned off, downloading a 1GB movie takes

55 seconds - 18MB/s - on the SDDR189 and the Lexar (close enough to rank together)

41 seconds - 24MB/s - on the SDDR199

43 seconds - 23MB/s - from my USB 2.0 hard drive

31 seconds - 31MB/s - from that same hard drive via firewire 400 ()

10 seconds - 95MB/s - from my external esata hard drive ()



Considering that a typical download is 2 to 5 GB, we are talking about saving several minutes here.



I like the Lexar reader a lot. Even more-so now that my initial test of 10MB/s proved to be faulty. I perceive it to be of better quality and I like that it protects the slots from my kids who have already bent the pins on another CF reader by jamming something into the inviting slot. I like the simplicity of having just two slots. The included usb cable is too short to reach my desk, however it is a standard cable and easily replaced.



I like the speed of the SDDR199, however I wish it read CF cards as well (our primary camera is a Canon 40D), so that I can use just one card-reader. On the SDDR189, the magnetic stand is a joke, however on the much smaller SDDR199, it works well. My computer sees it immediately and I find it to be very responsive.



I am going to keep the Lexar and the one-slot Sandisk 199 at the desktop using the same cable and throw away all the other card readers that have proven themselves to be highly unreliable, slow to respond and not worth their cheap price.



The SDDR 189 is a very good compromise and I will keep that one for my back pack so I can read all various card types with reasonable speed. The magnetic stand on this rather tall reader is a bit of a joke however, so the back-pack makes even more sense over the desktop in this regard. The Transfer button also seems very flimsy, but I doubt I'd ever use it anyway. Yet another bonus is that I have been able to upload photos/music directly to the microSD card in my ATT Fuze, rather than searching for the SD adaptor first.



I would love to see someone make a firewire (or esata) SD/CF reader because I read that Firewire CF card readers are getting about 30 to 40 MB/s.



I am somewhat disappointed that Canon (and everyone else) seems to be moving away from the CF format to the SD format as we knew from day one that the CF specification allowed for a much faster data transfer and that files will only get bigger.

I have been using the older SanDisk ImageMate 12-in-1 card reader for years, happily reading my Compact Flash, Memory Stick, and SD cards. Then, one day I bought a newer, larger capacity SD card (also SanDisk), and found that the 12-in-1 would not recognize it.



A Google search revealed that the protocol for reading the higher capacity and/or higher speed cards that are now on the market was somehow different from what the 12-in-1 was designed to handle. SanDisk's website allowed that there was a firmware flash upgrade available for the 12-in-1 that would allow it to read memory cards with the newer protocol, but unluckily my particular reader was old enough that there was no flash available for its serial number range.



I bought a nice looking all-in-one reader made by IOGear (their "56-in-1 Memory Card Reader/Writer"), and it worked with the new card, but the transfer was agonizingly slow. It took almost an hour to transfer the 8GB card's contents to my computer. Extrapolating how long the older Sandisk 12-in-1 took to transfer a 2GB card, this was a ridiculously long time. Another Google search revealed that this reader, and some others, were notoriously slow...I should have Googled before I bought!



The same search suggested that the new SanDisk ImageMate All-in-One Reader/Writer was a speed demon, so I ordered one from Amazon (no local stores carried it, interesting enough).



The new SanDisk reader works well. The cards plug in and can be removed easily enough, the reader transfers data at a reasonably fast rate, etc. However, I find that SanDisk really fell down in the ergonomics department with this product. Apparently, the whole design group was stoned out and tripping to 2001: A Space Odyssey, and thereby designing their new card reader to look like the black monolith. Whereas the 12-in-1 had a nice appearance, docking into a stable desk stand, with ample room around the card slots for text and diagrams to show which kind of card goes into which slot, the new All-in-One looks cheap and flimsy (although it actually feels solid), is held onto a tiny desk stand base with a weak magnet so that it falls off too easily, and is so thin that the text and diagrams are illegible.



The older 12-in-1 could be undocked from the desk stand and laid flat on a table, or used as a hand-held device. The same is true for the new All-in-One, except its smaller footprint and slick surface makes it harder to use laid flat on a table, and its shape makes it unpleasant as a hand-held unit.



The older 12-in-1 had a nice array of colored LEDs to indicate that the reader was communicating with the computer over USB and that each slot was busy transferring data. The new All-In-One does not have anything to indicate that it is plugged in and ready, but does have LEDs to show slot activity. However, these are tiny pinpoint blue LEDs that seem to be sunken back into the plastic, and I find them hard to see unless I look closely. And, since they are next to the slots, the card itself may obscure its LED when viewed from some angles (the older reader had the LEDs grouped up on top where they were both attractive and highly visible).



While this reader certainly functional, it serves as a poster child for poor ergonomic design. The designers apparently wanted a slick looking design, but did not think through the functional aspects of the ergonomics. - Multi-card Reader - Card Reader - All-in-one - Usb Card Reader'


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Credit Card Shredder


I bought the Fellowes w-11c yesterday on sale at a local store. I was trying to decide between it and another Fellowes "small business" class shredder that was on sale for $160, three times the price of the w-11c. I've replaced enough shredders that I figured it would probably save money in the long run to get a top-of-the-line shredder and pay out the $160 instead of replacing the shoddy ones as they break down.



I just couldn't bring myself to spend $160 on a shredder, though. As much as logic and reason said it was the right thing to do, I couldn't make myself do it. Instead, I bought the w-11c, in part based on the decent reviews I've seen on here. I don't run a home business, I just have lots of junk mail, canceled checks, and other personal documents I'd rather not leave in the trash for thieves to steal. That junk mail and those papers have been accumulating for 6 months, going in a big "shred it when you get a new shredder box."



Well, today was this thing's trial by fire. I emptied the box into the shredder and I was RELENTLESS. Unopened credit card offers, old bank statements, several checkbook pads for an account I no longer have, and more. I pushed the thing to its limit. It definitely handles the advertised "11 sheet" capacity, though it does so with some protest and a very noticeable slowing of the shred speed. It gets through it, though, and it's none the worse for wear. Today alone, I had to empty the bin 9 times... and its still running great! The construction is solid, safety features are great (the additional child safety lock on the top is really secure and impossible to override), and this thing can take whatever you throw at it, within reason.



All in all, I'm very happy I saved $110 and went with the w-11c instead of the business-class unit. If you shred perhaps 2 to 10 things per day, this is the ideal unit for you (especially if you don't like having to open junk mail envelopes before shredding 'em!) Fellowes Powershred W-11C 11 Sheet Cross-Cut Shredder (3103201)

we used this lightly for about a year. THen i tried to cut cardboard. . . it stopped. And then it started after a cool off! Don't cut cardboard with this and You'll love it.

It does handle CD's and credit cards, as well as cardstock. But don't put corrugated cardboard in it.



the '11 sheet' is a stretch, but it's reliable, fast, and clean. It will handle junk mail without you opening the envelop. Cross cut is more space efficient and more secure than strip cutting. It packs down well, and when we use it like straw in the yard or garden, it stays down.



The bin is under the shredder, and to empty it you have to lift the shredder. It's a bit heavy. This is generally cleaner than a removable bin below, but paper shreds do fly around a bit. On the other hand, the shredder always fits right back into the top of the bin, so you won't have to worry with bin placement issues. The shredder must be properly mounted to function.



It is quieter than the last one we owned. This doesn't make it quiet -I don't think there's a 'quiet' paper shredder in the world. It may not be as good as the $200 shredders, but it's great for the money.



Highly recommended for the price.

I recently bought this from Amazon...Disposed off lot of personal/confidential/sensitive material in the span of two weeks. Very sturdy. Low down time....will shred credit cards/staples etc. without any issues. .. if you are looking for a cross cut shredder for home/home office at a reasonable price, this is the one to go with..

This is a pretty good shredder. It can shred paper very well into tiny slices. However, emptying the bin can be a bit of a pain. Lifting the shredder is easy, because there is a handle, but it is also pretty hard, because it's pretty heavy. To shred adhesives (even though it says it can't), put the adhesive on a blank sheet of paper or make one side of the adhesive stick to the other side. Overall, this is a decent shredder and I would certainly recommend it.



UPDATE: 3/1/2010

I still have this shredder. One person said this shredder can handle CD's. Honestly, from how I tested it, it can't. The CD got stuck and I had to use a scissor to finish it through. Do not try to shred CD's. Overall, still a good shredder; able to shred credit cards, unopened junk mail, invoices, and adhesives (if you follow the advice above).



UPDATE: 6/4/2010

Still running strong. This shredder still does the job to get rid of all the extra papers I don't need.



UPDATE: 9/15/2010

Still the best shredder in my house. I owned this shredder almost for 7 months and still one of the best.



UPDATE: 1/22/2011

Almost a year with this shredder. This shredder has took down so many papers and adhesive Amazon labels, this is something that was worth buying. Still no problems with this shredder. Such an incredible product.



UPDATE: 5/15/2011

Almost one and a half year since I had this shredder. Still running strong and I shred loads of paper every week. I oil this shredder perhaps after two or three full loads of paper. Still works like a charm. How incredible is this shredder?'


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Micro Usb Charger - motorola droid, droid charger


For those interested...



The output rating of the Motorola SPN5504 Battery Charger (as of April 2011, no longer directly stocked by Motorola) is 850 MA (milliamperes) at 5.1 volts. The lithium-ion battery within the Motorola Droid 2 Global cellphone, Type BP6X, is rated at 1420 mAH (milliampere-hours, typical). So, if you were to use the cellphone, discharging it down to the 5 percent level (as indicated on the "Battery Management" screen of the cellphone), the time it would take to recharge the phone to 100 percent (fully charged state) would nominally be 95 minutes, calculated as follows:



Recharge time = (Percent_discharged x Battery_capacity) / battery_charger rate, i.e., (0.95 x 1420) / 850 = 1.587 hours or 95 minutes.



Similarly, charging rates for given percent battery discharges are:



90% - 90 minutes

80% - 80 minutes

70% - 70 minutes

60% - 60 minutes

50% - 50 minutes



The above are "nominal" charging times. If the battery has a different capacity or the battery charger has a different rating, then the charge times will differ accordingly. If the battery charger cannot provide 850 milliamperes output (i.e., the nominal rating is less than 850 ma - as may be the case with a "cheap" battery charger), then it will lake commensurately longer for the battery to be fully charged. (For example, if the battery charger has an output of only 650 ma, the time to fully charge the 1420 mAH battery in the cellphone from a 95% discharged state would be 124 minutes - significantly longer.)



I actually tested the above, using my almost new (3 weeks old) Motorola Droid 2 Global phone with the OEM Motorola battery BP6X (provided with the cellphone) and the accompanying OEM Motorola Battery Charger SPN5328B (marked output rating: 850 mAH at 5.1 volts). The cellphone was discharged to the 5% point, at which time the Battery Charger was connected to the phone. The actual charge time to reach the 100% fully charged state was 94 minutes.



Hope this helps! Motorola SPN5504 micro-USB Home and Travel Charger

I bought three of these as I need one every place I go. This item is identical to the one that came with my Droid X, down to the part number and labels. I'm very happy with it. Now if I could only find a battery that lasts more than 1 hour, all would be perfect. Cost was 1/5 th of retail.

I ordered this for my HTC Evo 4G because I like to have one for the office and one for home and the EVO 4g will consume a lot of battery if you like to have WIFI or GPS enabled for extended periods of time. The price was right and the free shipping was very fast (ordered Fri, arrived Mon). This works just like the OEM charger that came in the box. I have ordered other chargers for other phones at online auction sites, and they were more expensive, not a name brand, made cheaply, and didn't last. This is a quality product that does the job at a good price, what more can you ask?

This is the same charger/USB interface cable you get when you purchase a droid. Weather you need to replace the one that came with your droid or you want an extra charger, you can't beat the price. I'm pretty sure you'll pay about 10x the price if you were to purchase one at a store. I wish I could find more items at 90% off! - Motorola Droid - Charger - Motorola - Droid Charger'


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Wireless Ip Camera - network camera, night vision


I'm usually pretty good with bad English translations in my instruction manuals, but this product is pretty rough. You often can't tell if the manual is telling you that something needs to be done in order to make something happen, that it shouldn't be done if you want it to happen... or if you need to make the second thing happen (some other way) in order for the first thing to be taken care of. Use of negatives and double-negatives is a challenge, too. If you are familiar with the configuration of network gear, try to forget what you know. It doesn't work *exactly* the same with this camera. You're better off as a novice, I think.



Since it burned 15 hours of my time, here's a possible help for some people about to return their camera because "wireless isn't working". This is for people who manually assign IPs, or who don't understand why the camera isn't finding any wireless networks. Understand that the camera has to be set it up in very specific stages. You can't make all your changes at once. Also, you must use the proprietary software to connect to the camera over Ethernet the first time. Don't use other software. Make sure you set your router for dynamic IP allocation. Next, you reboot through software. Next you power cycle. Log into the camera using IE. It says you can use other browsers, but don't. NOW set up the wireless properties. Save them, remove the ethernet cable. Reboot through software and then power cycle (yes, that's two boots). Log in again. NOW change the IP assignment from dynamic to manual. Save and reboot through software and then power cycle. You won't find these instructions in the manual. I had to stumble upon it and I've repeated the process with minor variations to be sure - nothing else works. Good grief!!!!!!! I was about to pack these things up and ship them back. Looks like they work fine if you know the right dance. I'm using 128 bit WEP. If you're using something else - good luck to you. Foscam FI8908W Wireless IP Camera with Pan & Tilt, Night Vision, 2 Way Audio, Apple Mac and Windows compatible, Color - Black

I was a little concerned after reading all of the posts complaining

about how hard their experiences were in setting up this camera.

Aside from that, the ratings were good, the price was right, and since

I have 20 years IT experience and am a glutton for punishment, I

ordered one. Actually I need at least three, but I wanted to buy one

as a test, and if it passed, I'd buy the additional two cameras.



I ordered this camera and several days later it was already in my

mailbox. I unpacked it, and was going to put off configuring it until

Christmas day, when I would have had much of the day to play with it.

Being the workaholic that I am, I decided to go ahead and try and

configure it within minutes of deciding I wasn't going to do it. I

got out the instruction book and started going through the steps, one

by one. The grammar kind of bothered me, you can tell English

wasn't a native language for the technical document writer. I'm not

going to lie, you're going to need a bit of technical experience to

get this camera connected, but it's not the camera's fault. With all

the security that's around nowadays, along with all the possible setup

scenarios, it's likely never going to be a plug and play scenario to

get an IP camera working. I'll bottom line you though - it was worth

it. I love this thing!



My first bit of advice is to take the instruction book that's inside

the box, and put it directly into your trash can. Seriously. That

book is flawed and you're going to need the Hubble Telescope to read

the small print to begin with. Follow the manual on the CD that's in

the box. There are guides on the CD. One is a User Manual PDF and the

other is a quick guide. Follow the User Manual for it's a bit more

detailed. Now let me describe my equipment and the steps I took to

get this camera configured. My equipment: Linksys Wireless Router, PC

running Windows XP Pro SP3, Cable Mode for Internet connection.



If you want this thing to email you photos when the motion sensor is

tripped (or to connect to it via the Internet, which is why you're

looking at an IP camera to begin with), then you're going to need an

Internet connection. You'll need at least a Cable modem. I can't

imagine how slow it will be if you have DSL and you're trying to

connect to this camera over the Internet. So, I've got a Cable modem,

Linksys wireless router, and a NON SSL POP email account. YOU CANNOT

USE GMAIL WITH THE CURRENT FIRMWARE WITH THIS CAMERA. Gmail requires

SSL and the SMTP client on this camera as of today is not written for

SSL, so save yourself some time in trying to do it anyway. Unless you

use STunnel from [...], it's just not going to happen. Since I

have several email accounts, I simply chose one that I knew didn't

require SSL (it's a hosted account I have with Rochen, with gives you

the option to use their non SSL SMTP port 1025 which will work with this camera, or to use the more common Secure SMTP like that of Gmail which won't work with this camera.)



Quick steps of what I did:



Step 1: Screw the antenna into the camera. Plug the network cable into

the camera and then into an available port on your wireless router.

Plug the power cable into the wall and then into the camera.



Step 2: Now on your computer, which is also running through your

router, run the IP Camera tool from the CD, but first make sure you

exit any web browsers you may have open. You may have to reboot your

computer after the IP Camera Tool installation.



Step 3: You should be reading through the User Manual at this point,

as there are many possibilities for your current setup. You should

have also already thrown the printed manual into your trash can where

it rightfully belongs. Run the IP Cameral Tool icon from the desktop

if you had to reboot your computer. Your camera should show up in

that list as anonymous, followed by

[...] Personally, I'm running DHCP so

an IP was already assigned to the camera when it booted. If you

double click on the IP address of the camera in the IP Camera Tool

window, it will bring up a web browser window for you to login to the

camera. The default username is admin with a blank password (this

part is not in that stupid printed manual that came in the box with

the camera..but luckily you threw it in the trash.)



Step 4: This is important: save yourself some grief and use Internet

Explorer to get this thing setup. You can play around with Firefox and

other browsers all you want later, but for sake of simplicity, just

use IE for now. Since you're using IE you'd use the first set of

login parameters on the login page.



Step 5: Now that you are logged in, you should see an Active X request

so go ahead and right click and install it. Then you may need to run

an additional app that pops up before you can see the video stream.



Step 6: Hey wow! There you are in the video if you've got it pointed

at yourself. So far so good. I played around a bit at this point,

panning the camera left, right, up, down..pretty nice! Cut out the

lights...yep..can still see me in the dark...except now I've got big

devilish pupils. Now you need to configure all of the settings under

administrator (on the bottom left of the screen).



You need to decide how you will get to the camera over the Internet.

I've got a DynDNS account, but it's a whole lot more easy to just use

port forwarding on my router. So I picked an available port, gave it

some random name, and pointed that port to the fixed IP of the camera.

You'll also need to be sure you get all of your settings dead

accurate correct, otherwise your wireless won't work. Make sure your

SSID is correct, your Auth Key is correct, Encryption type, etc. etc.

If just one thing is wrong, you won't be able to go wireless. For

certain settings in your camera, it may need to reboot the

camera..kind of annoying but it is what it is. Once you get all of

your wireless settings correct, you can remove the network cable from

the back of the camera. Your camera should still show up in the IP

Camera Tool window. If not, you did something wrong. If so, you're

now ready to go wireless. To test, I used:

[...] :AssignedPortIUsed Works great!



Regarding the email: because of the poor use of English, when you are

putting in SMTP server account settings (if you chose to have it email

you pictures when motion trips the alarm) then BE SURE YOU CLICK

SUBMIT AFTER YOU ENTER ALL OF THE INFORMATION AND BEFORE BEFORE BEFORE

**BEFORE** YOU CLICK ON "TEST". The camera will not take the settings

until you click on SUBMIT. So make sure you SUBMIT before you TEST.

I got hung up on this for about 30 minutes of KNOWING my settings were

correct, but couldn't figure out why the camera said it couldn't

connect to my account. I even did the whole Telnet routine to connect

manually to the SMTP port because I knew my settings were correct.

CLICK SUBMIT BEFORE YOU TEST.



Regarding the motion alarm: I used the scheduling for the motion alarm

to trip when I'm at work...so I put in my work schedule. No one should

be walking around inside my home while I'm not there. If they do, I've

got them on video straight to my cell phone, in which case I'd

promptly call the police.



Well, that's about it for me. It works great. Also, as one of the

receiving email accounts, I wanted to mention that you can use your

email to text with your cell phone company (I have tmobile, so it's

[...] ) so now when the motion is tripped

on your camera, it will send the pictures via SMS text to your cell

phone. I can't say enough good things about this camera. I just hope

it stands the test of time..and maybe I'll come back and do a follow

up review in a few months.



Have fun! Merry Christmas! - Network Camera - Night Vision - Wireless Camera - Wireless Webcam'


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Slim Jewel Cases - dvd jewel cases, jewel cases


These cases are durable and colorful! None of that dull black or transparent stuff. They're made from the company that makes the best CD-Rs, Verbatim. Definitely snag the 100pk of the ValueLife CD-Rs. They're great because they have no logos or typing on the front of the Disc. So, if you want to make labels, there's no risk of anything showing through. Plus, the CDs are of such high quality. I've never had a problem with any of them and I've purchased at least 300 Verbatims by now. If you're looking for the 100pk, I recommended it in addition to this product above. Don't clutter up your CD rack with bulky, brittle, and dull jewel cases. Use these! Verbatim 94178 Slim CD and DVD Storage Cases, 5 Assorted Colors, 50-Pack

This item arrived in a rather large box, with paper to separate it from a pack of CD's on the same order. This item arrived with 8 cases broken, (16% damage.) 4 on each end were broken. 4 blue and 4 yellow.

These cases are very light weight, and brittle. Large package would be a real hassle to try and return, this is one of those times that you eat your loss, and remind yourself that often low price is synonymous with low quality. With this much breakage, not a good deal.

Since this is a product review I must give the product 5 stars. However the way it was packed for shipping was not so good. The cases came in a box with no cushion of any kind. It just rattled freely in the box. Of course there was some broken. There was 3 broken and it could have easily been more. In the future I will buy fragile items in the store where I can see if there is any damage. This isn't the first time something has arrived from Amazon broken due to bad packaging.

Verbatim 94178 Slim CD and DVD Storage Cases, 5 Assorted Colors, 50-Pack



2/5's of the top portions of the jewel case covers which holds the CD and DVD liners have the connections that secure them to the bottom portion of the CD and DVD cases, which holds the CD's and DVD's, have connections

broken off on one side or the other.

The cases are great for minimizing the space that DVDs take. The color makes them nice for shelf display. I put all of my movies in these, and now they are all on one small shelf, alphabetically by genre. Before the movies were spread all over the place. They hold disc well and are well designed for ease of release of the disc. Indeed, some of the cases had holding mechanisms that made disc removal hard. Easy disc removal means less likelihood of cracking the disc upon removal. A few did arrive cracked, but Amazon quickly took care of me with a partial refund. I would order from Amazon and just check the pack carefully when you receive. - Media Storage - Jewel Cases - Dvd Jewel Cases - Cd Cases'


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