Thursday, 28 April 2011

Framing Tool


I made a bunch of picture frames last summer and needed something affordable to push in the retaining pins/nails for the backing. These pliers worked great!

I looked in all my woodworking catalogs and found nothing under $30 to do the same job these guys did for less than $15. Plus, with the Prime Shipping, I got them in two days without freight! Big Horn 19120 Picture Frame Pliers

I make my own frames for my slightly 3-D "paper dolls with deep personal issues" especially the art for my book- "The Word Project: Odd & Obscure Words- Illustrated (available on Amazon.com: [...] ) This brad pusher makes the task so much easier and secures the art work so much better than just awkwardly tapping in the brads with a hammer as I had to do before. It may seem silly to get such joy out of so small a thing but I love this tool and am so happy to have purchased it.

I purchased this tool to insert brads into a frame to secure a painting. Although the magnets worked to hold the small nails ready for insertion, it (the magnet) broke as soon as any force was applied. The tool in general was of a high quality and even though the magnet broke, it can be easily overlooked and used without any magnetism. Just adjust the handle a bit. I would recommend this tool since it could be used even without a working magnet.'


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Drum Sanders - performax, drum sander


I do a lot of work with wild grained woods...such as walnut, burl maple, mesquite, etc. My planer often would tear these boards up pretty bad. Plus the planer is not the tool for fixing the cupping and small twists that are epidemic with this type of wood. The 10x20 does solve most of these problems. It's not a planer, so using it to dimension lumber is a long slow chore, but with a good resaw blade on the bandsaw, I can get close to the dimension I want then finish with the sander. I really like being able to take the cup and crown off boards before I resaw them. This ability alone makes the purchase price worthwhile. I made a 1/4" plywood template of the factory strip and buy rolls of sandpaper, clamp the template over a strip on my bench, then cut new strips with a sharp utility knife. Saves a lot of money over buying the factory made ones. Changing the strips at first is a little frustrating, but by the time you have changed them out 6 or 8 times it gets to be routine. The "TOUGH TOOL" that was included with my sander does really help, especially with the inboard side. I had some tracking problems with the feed belt also. A friend who is a machinest, was watching me run some coca bola strips thru the machine, noted that the machine was "racked" in relation to the base. It was such a small amount that I would have never noticed it. With the machine still mounted to the base, he had me loosen all the bolts holding the base together, and the bolts holding the machine to the base. He then "wiggled" the machine and had me retighten the bolts holding the machine to the base, then tighten the bolts on the base starting at the top and working down. Haven't had a tracking problem since.

The four inch dust chute is great, does a good job of catching most of the dust.

I haven't had the limiter kick the motor off yet, or experienced a piece flying across the room as some reviewers have noted. I do tend to use a slower feed rate then is probably neccesary, but this is a hobby so I'm not in any hurry anyway.

The finish, especially on exotic hardwoods is very good, even when I only go to 180 grit.

I can now do in 15 minutes the same amount of work that use to take me a couple of hours. I have only used the double pass method twice now, once on an 18" wide piece of black mesquite and once on a 20" wide piece of spanish cedar. Adjusting the bar was not the nightmare I had invisioned, both pieces came thru as flat as I could ever hope for. This little machine is a very welcome addition to my shop. It is ruggedly built and very solid. I expect to get a lot of years of use out of it and would reccommend it to anyone who is "space challenged", but still wants a good drum sander.

Update...I've found that if you are sanding boards much more than 9" wide, you need to treat them as if you were doing a much wider board...that is to say double pass them. If you try to run a 10" board thru, using the full width of the drum, you will develope a ridge on the inboard side. Not really a big deal,easy to cure.

Still love this little machine, recommend highly. JET 628900 Mini 10-Inch 1-Horsepower Benchtop Drum Sander, 115-Volt 1-Phase

I bought this sander for $500 from Woodcraft for my guitar shop. When I got it home, I unpacked it and was quite pleased by the apparent quality of the machine. It sanded quite well, and the sanding belt was very easy to change. Also, the overload protection worked flawlessly. However, no matter what I did, the belt would not track properly. I called Performax, and they sent me a new conveyor belt (twice), but still, it tracked hard left. This is a problem because eventually the belt eats itself from going off the side of the rollers and jams into a bracket under the table. I took the sander back to woodcraft for repair (they were very cool about this), and they could not get it to track properly either. This has apparently been a problem with the 16-32 as well. Well, to make a long story short, Performax told them it would be 1-2 months for a replacement part or unit. After a month at Woodcraft (who apparently replaced one of the rollers), they gave it back and the darn thing STILL will not track properly. No matter how I adjust the rollers, it always tracks to the left!!! I'm VERY disappointed here- after years of hearing how great Jet and Performax are (they're all owned by WMH tool group), I thought I'd have no problems. Oh well- maybe it doesn't pay to go with the name....I realize that this unit is made in the far east, but I'd hope that Performax wouldn't put it's good name and valuable reputation on such a piece of junk!

After reading many of the reviews I was a little hesitant to purchase this sander but with 30 years of mechanical experience behind me I decided I could fix it no matter what. Was I ever dissapointed - there was nothing wrong with this sander! The tracking was perfect, belt tension dead on, and the sanding drum was set within .003". I build small items. I wanted something to take out planer marks and resaw imperfections on small pieces. It does this perfectly. I don't know how large a hunk of wood would be realistic to try and sand but for small boxes, toys, splines and the like it is perfect.

I've been using this tool for several months now doing both exterior trim (Western Red Cedar) and interior trim (Douglas Fir) for a house I'm building. I've also had a chance to run some Teak and Mahogany through my machine. Overall the results have been outstanding, but the machine is somewhat frustrating to use at times.



My biggest beef is the drum motor thermal cutoff. As previous reviewers have stated, it's extremely sensitive to even the slightest overload. Here's an example: I was running a cedar 2x6 through, using an 80 grit belt. I advanced the depth adjustment ~1/4 turn (~ 1/128th of an inch) after a previously successful pass. It gets about halfway through the board when the protection circuit shuts down the motor. At this point you get to stand around twiddling your thumbs for 1-2 minutes waiting for the breaker to reset itself. Are they joking? 1/128th of an inch in a very soft wood like cedar is an overload? This is typical. I don't know if I got an overly sensitive machine, but I can't recall a session where it didn't shut down at least once on me. I have a planer, so I don't use this for heavy stock removal. If you have ideas about using this machine as a substitute for a planer, you have a mountain of grief lying in wait.



Another frustration is belt tracking. It took a while for me to get the drive belt running true. It seemed like just when you had it, something would stretch or shift and it would go out of wack again. The adjustment mechanism is sort of a Mickey Mouse affair, making the frequent adjustments that much more of a pain. I will say though that the belt now seems to have stabilized and it's been running true for some time now. Luckily I haven't seen any of the severe wear other reviewers have experienced, becuase replacing the drive belt is an expensive proposition.



A final annoyance is snipe, but this has a lot to do with technique. I typically use my machine with roller stands on each side. If a board reaches the end of the stand and drops or bounces a bit, it can produce a nasty mid-length snipe. These cause one to groan especially hard because the whimpy motor means you might be looking at 5-6 additional passes to get rid of the damage. I've now learned to be very careful to support the workpiece as it feeds in and out. Currently I don't have the optional table extensions installed. I have a feeling they would help the situation.



On the upside, the results have been well worth all the effort. This machine leaves an unbelievably uniform surface. It's just the ticket for removing mill glaze and planer marks leaving a surface ready for final finish. The dust collection is also a plus. These machines make a huge amount of very fine dust. Even when only hooked to a shop vac, the dust chute picks up almost all the dust. I would think hooking it to a 4in shop line would be even more effective. Another plus is the belt installation. It goes about as smoothly as you could expect and the Tuff-Tool they include does come in quite handy. Once you get the hang of it, you can change belts in probably around a minute or two. - Drum Sander - Drum Sanders - Performax'


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Mini Usb To Micro Usb Adapters


I have a number of Mini USB cables that weren't seeing much use. I recently purchased an HTC Incredible (Micro USB) and found myself needing extra charging cables so I wouldn't have to constantly unplug/plug and carry around cables to work/home/elsewhere. These adapters allowed me to use the Mini USB cables I already had. I leave one at work, one by my desktop, one near the couch where my netbook sits, and one in my car. The added bonus of using the adapter is I can take it off and connect the Mini to a device that requires a Mini (my MP3 player and digital camera). StarTech Micro USB to Mini USB 2.0 Adapter M/F (UUSBMUSBMF)

This is not a true USB adapter since there are no wires connecting the data pins. The result is that you can use it to charge but it will not work for data transfer.



I tried it on an LG and a Nokia phone. The charge function worked on both. The data function worked on neither. I then snapped open the case of the adapter and, lo and behold, inside were just two wires connecting the voltage pins from one side to the other. The data pins had no wires at all.



The data function has worked worked for some people, so it appears not everyone is receiving the same item.



If you need a true USB adapter, look elsewhere as you don't know what you'll end up getting.



If all you need is a charging adapter, you may also want to look elsewhere as this one is cheaply made and doesn't look like it will last very long.

I received 2 of these adapters on March 16, 2011. I checked both of them and confirmed that they were for charging only. I opened them up to look at the wiring and only power and ground wires were there. The micro USB plug does not have the data pins sticking out to even soldering data wires.



The older reviews that stated the adapters worked for data transfer must had been different adapters. The product description of "Micro USB To Mini USB 2.0 M/f Adapter" is misleading for not disclosing the details.



Do NOT buy this adapter if you plan to use for data transfer.

Don't buy this if you're looking for an adapter for a data cable. This one works great, but only for charging. Motorola makes a charger and data adapter you can get from Amazon for $3.00 if that's what you're looking for.

My Blackberry curve mini USB connector broke inside the unit. I have tons of accessories for the curve (e.g. chargers, tether cables). I replaced the curve with a bold that uses a micro USB connector. I purchased 10 of these adapters and now can convert mini USB to micro USB. It saved me a considerable expense. These adapters have worked flawlessly.

First I want to say the StarTech adapter is A1 perfect for data and charging.

I purchased one through Amazon directly for just over $[....] and it was as advertised and looked just like the picture.



************ B U Y E R B E W A R E *********************************************



Second I want to say I have tried to purchase the cheaper versions through SF Planet, Media Mart, and ACC stop all were cheap knock off adapters that didn't even look like the StarTech and could only charge and not pass data.

I got this product because I have a lot of mini USB chargers that predate my new phone. It is a simple product but badly executed. The micro usb/male end is an extremely tight fit to my phone and with repeated use I notice that other cables no longer make good contact with the phone when charging or tranferring data. The tight-fitting adapter effectively expands your phone's micro usb port making charging with better fitting cables impossible. Not recommended.

I bought this (about 65 cents plus $3 shipping) for my daughter's phone. It was simple and great. I attached it to a Micro USB charger and it worked.



Then, about a week later, my daughter handed the pieces back to me. She unplugged her phone and it fell apart.'


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Black Nationalism - african-america, us drama


There are few playwrights with the list of awards August Wilson received: Pulitzer, Tony's, Drama Desk - and each of these several times over. There are even fewer African American playwrights with such a legacy, namely none other than August Wilson. His ten play series called the Pitsburgh Cycle chronicles the African-American experience in each of the ten decades of the 20th century. Nine of the plays are set in his hometown of Pittsburgh.



This book examines these plays in the context of contemporary African American literature. By doing so, the author (a Stanford University professor) has found hidden depths that increase the understand of the plays themselves, and add even more respect to the work done by Mr. Wilson. Mr. Wilson changed the face of the American Theater, and the African-American theater in particular. The Past as Present in the Drama of August Wilson - African American - African-america - Us Drama - Pittsburgh'


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Yoga Accessory - hot yoga, yoga towel


I own both a Manduka towel and the Yogitoes towel and here's what I wish I would have known: The Manduka feels softer than the Yogitoes, and certainly is more versatile, since it can be used as a regular towel or even a blanket. They both feel pretty stable (can't avoid all slipping of the hands in down dog) when wet, but the major difference is that the Maduka has a tendency to bunch up more than the Yogitoes on my yoga mat during practice. The nubs on the Yogitoes do help a lot to grip the towel on the yoga mat to prevent slippage while you're jumping up to the top of the mat or performing a lunge. Caveat: I have a Gaiam yoga mat, so I'm not certain if the Manduka towel works better with the Manduka yoga mats. I have the pink Manduka - it's quite lovely and I haven't experienced any bleeding in the wash (unlike my purple Yogitoes!). But the bunching issue is really annoying, and for this reason alone, if I need another yoga towel, I would go with another Yogitoes.



UPDATE: I've since purchased a Manduka yoga mat, and the Manduka towel is MUCH better paired with the Manduka mat. In fact, I can't use the Yogitoes towel with the Maduka mat because the nubs do not grip the smoother surface of a Manduka mat very well. So in deciding which towel to purchase, bottom line is it will depend on the surface of the yoga mat you have. Yogitoes towel for your "normal" yoga mats (typically $10-$30) made of soft rubber and has a slightly nubby surface area. Maduka towel for the Maduka mats, where the surface area appears much smoother because the rubber is denser. Manduka Standard eQua Towel (Thunder)

Everyone I know who has a mat towel has one made by Yogitoes. I agonized for months over whether I should buy a Yogitoes or this. Yogitoes has those little rubber bumps on this one side, but did they really make that much difference in terms of grippiness? I use a Manduka mat and love it so I decided to take a risk and go with the Manduka towel too. I'm pretty sure it paid off. This towel feels great, you can really tell it's high quality. It's a little slippy when it's completely dry but, once damp, it provides incredible grip. I've never used a yogitoes towel so I can't make a comparison but I'd certainly recommend this one to anyone looking.

I practice heated vinyasa, so this was great considering how much i move (a lot!) and sweat (I lose about a pound and a half if I don't drink!) throughout the class. It does wrinkle ever so slightly throughout class, but not enough to be a distraction. It's more or less slip proof, but you do have to spray it down pretty generously with water before you start. In fact, the towel dries out so rapidly in the heat I have to get it uncomfortably damp at the beginning of class--but just at the spots where I put my hands and feet in downdog. However, for the price, it was well worth it--you can get two of these for the price of one yogitoes towel, and use it as a regular towel. Plus, it's a little larger than the yogitoes standard and I do appreciate the extra room.

After slipping and sliding on towels during rigorous vinyasa classes and home practice on my Jade Harmony mat - to the point where I had to constantly reposition 4 mini hand towels to my hands and feet in downward dog, to no avail - I finally caved in and bought one of these towel dealies. I went back and forth between all the options on Amazon - the Gaiam, Kulae, Yogitoes, Manduka...and in the end, decided to go for the Manduka because of reviews (noted people mentioning "quick air-drying" and no color leaking during washes) and the fact that it is significantly cheaper on Amazon than any of the yoga stores I've visited.



If you've been debating getting a towel for your yoga practice - and you're a serious yogi who can sweat a ton in classes - put it off no longer. This towel is fantastic. I can't say enough great things about it - it stays put, it's big, covers the whole mat, soaks up your sweat so there's no puddles of wet on your mat (yech), and is indeed quickly air drying. It's comfy and adds an extra layer of cushion between you and the floor (although not too much cushion for those who like to "feel" the floor) It didn't slide once during an extremely sweaty class (seriously, everyone else without yoga towels had gross puddles of sweat streaming all over the floor and mat - ew). The color and feel is soothing and even luxurious. The only possible semi-negative thing is that this towel seems to emit heat when you are lying face down (ie preparing for salambasana or locust/bow pose); it seems to echo/radiate your body heat. This to me was a very teeny trade-off for the many pluses and benefits, since I'm hot anyway regardless of whether there's a towel or not.



It also doesn't seem to soak up smell, so a simple water rinse and squeeze gets it pretty dry for next class. However, I have not washed it several times so cannot comment on its durability or continued sweat-soak ability. Will post later as an update.



You can put this on your mat in the beginning or once you get sweaty - either way, it seems to stick. A wonderful buy at a really good price on Amazon. couldn't be happier with my manduka towel!

I was unsure whether to buy this towel or the one from Yogitoes (Yogitoes Skidless Premium Mat-Size Yoga Towel). I prefer this towel -- it covers the mat better and has a slightly better feel. The difference is fairly small.



I was initially intrigued by the nubs on the Yogitoes towel, but I think they are a little bumpy and don't provide that much extra. The size of the towel makes the difference between the two.



Both towels are better wet than dry, but I still use this even at the beginning of my practice.

After doing a lot of research & finding myself torn between the Yogitoes & the Manduka eQua towel for Birkiam yoga, I decided to buy 1 of each. The Yogitoes is a bit more expensive (about $48) & Manduka about $37. The Manduka is very thin like a chamois, which was described by others this way, but one thing people didn't mention, is that LIKE a chamois, where you touch it when wet it leaves a little dark mark before it evaporates. Well, in a hot yoga class when you are sweating up a storm, the least attractive thing is wet hand/foot marks on the towel (call me whatever you like, but c'mon no one thinks that's a 'nice' benefit of a yoga towel.) Also, I found this one slipped MUCH more than the Yogitoes with the nubs. The Manduka was downright slippery. Granted it did not bunch up like a beach/bath towel, but like a chamois, it has an almost suede-like feel and during a couple of back-laying posture, I actually could slide my back up & down the mat - in a bad way. Anyway, as much as I wanted to like it, I hate it. - Hot Yoga - Yoga - Yoga Towel - Yoga Towels'


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Doweling Jigs - bench press, drill accessories


As just an occasional crafstman, I had hoped to avoid buying adrill press by gettting one of these. Unfortunately, there is too much slop in the mechanism to keep the drill from wandering in even soft woods like fir. For 90 degree holes a limited number of sizes, a doweling jig is a better choice. (several nice ones listed here on amazon). If you need help drilling at an angle, you would be better off making an angled doweling jig out of wood. (of course you still have to be able to saw at an angle, but that's another topic) END General Tool 36/37 Accu Precision Drill Guide

It is not steady for any work. I returned it the next day where I bought it from. You need to have a drill with 1/2" chuck but you can use only the drill bit upto 3/8". If you have a drill driver that accepts upto 3/8" bit you need to buy an adapter. If you want to use 1/2" drill bit you need to buy optional adapter again. This is ridiculous. The base is not steady enough for most work. It isn't built that bad. It looks nice but what is the use?

I bought both, but will be returning the General. The Craftsman equivalent, #967173, is built better. Unlike what a previous reviewer says, this particular Craftsman unit does not require you to remove the chuck from your drill. The bushing run out is similar on both units, with the Craftsman probably a little tighter - at least comparing the units I have. The Craftsman is also made of cast aluminum with much thicker and heavier support bars. There is also a spring return that should help press the unit against your work for added stability. There is a handle and more surface area on the base for holding the unit against your work and applying clamps. The General is made of injection molded plastic, and lacks all of the above features.Plus, I bought my Craftsman for the regular store price of about 27 bucks. Pretty no-brainer on this one.

All right, General Tools description is a more than a little bit optimistic, but this fixture isn't that bad. I've found mine to come in handy a time or two, when I couldn't use my real drill press. It can drift a bit on deeper holes. Sears has a similar unit, but it requires you to remove the chuck from your drill,and thread the drill onto the guide, essentially rendering your drill exclusive to the guide. The only other similar item I know of is the old Port-Align, which doesn't seem to be sold anymore. A small warning, this fixture also is sold in a version without a chuck, for about $... less, so make sure what your getting if you see it elsewhere.

First off, I must admit that I'm not sure which General Tool Drill Guide I own, since it appears identical to both the "General Tools 36/37 Precision Drill Guide" AND the "General Tool H3487 Drill Guide"; except my version came with a handle. So I might be in the wrong place for this review. What I'm saying pertains to the model that has a handle on the base.



That said, I own both the Sears and General tool guides. I bought the Sears model first, and on the surface it looked like a better unit. It's made of metal, versus metal/plastic for the General guide. But I quickly got fed up with it: The collet wobbles quite a bit, and on top of that, it's BENT! I could kinda drill 90 degree holes, if I pushed it to one side just enough. But that got old really quickly.



So I bought the General Tool guide, but didn't expect much, since while mostly metal it does have a plastic base. I'm amazed to say, plastic isn't so bad! The runout is far less than the Sears Craftsman guide, and the unit as a whole is far sturdier in terms of flex and wiggle. Go figure. No drill guide is a drill press, but for what it is, it's pretty good. How it will hold up remains to be seen. But for now, I'm quite happy with it, and use it on a regular basis. The Sears drill guide is going to donation land.

I wasn't trying to substitute this for a drill press when I bought it, but I still found that it only works moderately well. I use it with an 18v Milwalkee cordless and this thing puts just enough friction on the movement to where it feels like I am using a 9v drill instead (it saps a lot of torque).



Also, the base creeps across the work surface whenever you try to drill a hole at an angle for more than just a pilot-depth hole.



I bought this item for a specific project and ultimately I ended up using either a cheap plastic doweling jig or no jig at all about 90% of the time. This thing was just too cumbersome and imprecise to really be worth the effort.

One must wonder if there's gray matter inside the heads of some 'engineers.' I post the simple question, "How many times in 99.99999% of the population's lives, does one need to drill a hole at other than 90 degrees (or even the uncommon 45 degrees)?"



Why would any 'engineer' design a drill guide tool with no DETENT FOR 90 AND 45 DEGREES?



Good luck with this tool, setting it a precisely 90 degrees, clearly where 99.99999999999999999999% of the entire holes in the world are desired.



If you want a hole at 90 degrees to a surface, or perpendicular to a tangent line of a rod/bar/pipe, go somewhere else, cause this item isn't going to do it.



Now, if you'd be satisfied with the hole at 89.44129 degrees, or anywhere else from about 12.493452430 degrees, up to 168.283498 degrees, specifically EXCLUDING THE COMMONLY DESIRED 45 DEGREES, and ALMOST ALWAYS WANTED 90 DEGREES, then FINE, HERE YOU GO!!!!!!

I bought both, but will be returning the General. The Craftsman equivalent, #967173, is built better. Unlike what a previous reviewer says, this particular Craftsman unit does not require you to remove the chuck from your drill. The bushing runout is similar on both units, with the Craftsman probably a little tighter - at least comparing the units I have. The Craftsman is also made of cast aluminum with much thicker and heavier guide bars. There is also a spring return that should help press the unit flat against your work for added stability. There is a handle and more surface area on the base for holding the unit against your work and applying clamps. The General is made of injection molded plastic, and lacks all of the above features.Plus, I bought my Craftsman for the regular store price of about 27 bucks. Pretty no-brainer on this one. - Doweling Jigs - Drill - Bench Press - Drill Accessories'


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Cleansers - acne treatment, cleansers


Kept my 50 year old skin clear without drying. All else I have used sucked the moisture right out of my skin. I will continue to use this. If you've never used a skin clearing product that didn't dry you up, Don't hesitate to buy this....very good for mature acne prone skin. Avon Clearskin Professional Acne Treatment System

I have moderate acne with oily skin. Most of my breakouts occur right before my monthly period. I decided to get away from cheap store brand products and try Avon after reading positive reviews on Amazon and Google. This product improved the texture of my skin, reduced the amount of oil, and cleared most of my acne within 3 days. I've been using it for a little over a month now and although i still have mild breakouts, they are not as bad as they used to be and my skin feels and looks a lot smoother. I would definitly recommend this product to anyone.

I don't have bad acne, but get the occasional "monthly" breakouts. Nothing I did kept those away, so wanted to try something other than a basic cleanser to see if I could deter the acne. I noticed that my occasional breakout really never showed up after using this system, and I did notice right away that my skin was smoother and softer, and felt really clean. I love the cleanser because it makes your skin nice and tingly, and everything smells really fresh.

The only downfall is that the cleanser comes in a pretty small tube, and for what the system costs, i think it should be bigger. All in all, I am pretty happy.

I have suffered of acne since my teens. For a long time in my life I thought that it was gone for good, but then starting at 28 years old, it struck back again like in my teen years. To give you some background, I am 30 now, Latina but with fair complexion. My mother language is not English, but I will try to do my best documenting my review. Below some products that I have tried, for your reference:

- Proactiv: the only specific product from them that worked for me is their mask. I just used for spots treatment and most of the time, they were reduced by 50% the next morning. I never felt that the cleanser and cream worked for me.



- Philosophy Acne Treatment: it dries up the pimples, but then you have dark spots all over your face. If I didn't use a good moisturizer in the morning before going to work, my skin would be really dry and itchy. Then correcting the acne scars and dark spots was another issue I needed to address besides acne per se.



- Clinique Acne Treatment: cleanser is very mild. Then the astringent feels wonderfully in the skin, super refreshing. This is what does the magic. Then, the third step is the cream treatment which prevents the dry spots. I find this system to be competitive... however, every time I was going under a lot of stress, I didn't find that the pimples were minimized. I still was getting breakouts, more controlled though.



- Avon Clearskin Acne Treatment: cleanser is really and exfoliator, very refreshing. It's like washing your face with tiny spheres of mint. The fact that it's an exfoliator results in a really clean skin. Second step are some astringent pads, which helps remove the deep dirt. Then the third step is the treatment cream which helps reducing the pimples without over drying the skin. I find that every time I have a new pimple, I cleanse my skin, extract it and use both the pads and the cream and it reduces by 50% the next morning. I am still having my breakouts once in a while and specifically when I am under a lot of stress, but this is the only system that works best for my without over drying my skin and giving it a fresh sensation.

I've been using this acne treatment for 3 days now and I can already see a difference! My skin is softer and "trouble spots" that I've been trying to kill off for ages are finally disappearing. The only complaint I would have is the lotion makes my skin very oily however I've always had a problem with that. Overall it's a great product and I would recommend it to anyone!

I'm in my late 30s and going thru adolescence again and concerned about aging. I wanted help with

my skin but nothing that would dry it out. I tried this on a whim, hoping it wouldnt make things worse.

Im so happy I did! My skin cleared up and is nice and smooth and healthy looking. Thankful I found this

and tried it.

This set not only gave me clear skin, it also made my skin soft and smooth! I've spent years fighting with my acne but now this treatment is all I need. It brought all the blemishes under my skin to the surface and healed them to reveal the soft, silky smooth and CLEAR skin thats been hiding all along. This product is the best! - Acne Treatment - Facial Cleanser - Cleansers - Skin Care'


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