Briggs  stratton - spark plugs

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I couldn't find a spark plug at the local Ace that matched the plug model number in my Troy-Bilt owner's manual. My next step was Amazon and this spark plug that matched the number I was looking for. This is a genuine Briggs and Stratton spark plug and matches exactly the Champion plug that was in my mower. I installed it, and the mower started immediately.

Looking at the package, I see that this plug replaces CJ8, RCJ8, J19LM (my plug) , and RJ19LM.



The price for this plug is excellent especially with "free" prime shipping. Briggs & Stratton 5095H L-Head Engine Spark Plug

I bought this to replace a Champion J19LM on my 2007 MTD Yard Machines Briggs and Stratton 6.5hp lawn mower (675 series) (190 CC) Overall worked and fit well and would buy again. Another great buy from Amazon.com

Like for like replacement spark plug for the lawn mower.



Remove the old one, fit the new one - the mower runs better than ever.



Recommended as part of a mower overhaul - I'd not changed the oil, blade or plugs in eight years. Now my mower runs better than ever - and it's cleaner too!



Great price - and a neat looking spark plug. Recommended. - Spark Plugs'

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Cordless Electric Mower

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<SUMMARY> In a crowded field the Toro compares well based on it's performance - it cuts and mulches *very* well. Where it falls short is on features and to a lesser extent, construction. If I had to do it again, I'd take a closer look at the B&D CM1936. Both of these mowers were the top picks in the March 2010 Consumer Reports. I would rate this as 4+ stars overall but ding them half a star for customer service. The redesigned packaging should resolve the numerous issues people seem to have had with shipping damage.



I've had this machine for a whole season and was able to test it back to back with our B&D CMM1000 24V 19" cordless mower before I sold it some months back. To make things fair I sharpened the B&D and cleaned the deck. The Toro was substantially quieter and easier to maneuver (It's lighter and the weight is biased towards the rear wheels. After 12 years the B&D is still an impressive machine but in tall or wet grass it simply couldn't keep up. I had to re-mow with the B&D while the Toro gave a good cut with a single pass - even when walking quickly! You could hear the motor slow down but it still gave an excellent cut and mulched effectively.



The improved performance isn't surprising given the extra voltage. I'd note that when we bought the Black & Decker CMM1000 ~11 years ago, the only other cordless mower was the Neuton 14" via mail order. Now there are more than you can shake a stick at (SEE CHART)



Fit and finish is good but some items do not inspire confidence. The plastic motor cover is flimsy though it's hard to judge as two of the plastic bosses were broken (more on that later) Where the charger plugs in wobbles a lot and the locknut holding the circuit breaker in place was half off with no Loctite applied. This would have been lost within the first hour of use. Finally, the first time I tried to attach the grass catcher I had to wrestle with a wire which interfered with the grass door.



The handle folds but it's the same others - you have a large plastic wingnut you have to turn...and turn...and turn... Hasn't anyone come up with a better quick release for this?



The metal deck makes a big difference - it's deeper and mulches more efficiently, and makes for a smaller overall mower - despite this, our old B&D CMM1000 feels slightly more solid. Also, The B&D had a proper "Mulch Plug" while the Toro mulch cover allows grass to collect in a hollow area behind the mulch door - despite this, I never noticed the grass clumping. The one annoyance is that you have to tilt the mower to dump this out or you are going to be dragging it into your garage.



Also the Toro's metal deck allows the blade to get much closer to fences and trees. With the B&D, the 2 layer plastic deck was much thicker so the blade was at least 3" away. This is more like 1" <UPDATE> It's the wheel placement. If you lay a straight edge across the outside of the wheels, there's 1/2" to the Toro blade but 1-1/2 inches on the Black and Decker. Unfortunately the Toro seems to waste this advantage on one side as the handle sticks out so that it rubs if you mow with a fence on your right.



Toro says "Lighter than most other cordless mowers" but I'm not so sure (SEE CHART)



I have mixed feelings about the on/off switch. I preferred the dead mans bar on the B&D rather than this lever, which forces you to keep your right hand on the handle at all times. On the other hand, you can power off when crossing a sidewalk or driveway just by relaxing your grip.



Overall, this mower performs well but doesn't of the other features / details right. For the price, I think the B&DCM1936 offers a lot more, but if flat out mowing performance is your criteria, this is the one for you.



I might be biased towards B&D given our 10+ trouble free years with their CMM1000, but you could say that I might also have a favorable bias towards the Toro since I received it through Amazon Vine.



<TORO CUSTOMER SERVICE>

I received this item with some minor damage. There are 4 screws which hold the top plastic cover on. Two of the screw bosses were broken. When I removed the cover, I saw that the two zip ties holding the batteries down were also broken. Finally, one of the rear wheel adjusters was bent. I called Toro up and after a Looooong time on hold they told me to either pay to have it repaired myself or to go through Amazon and return it. Not really worth the hassle and rather frustrating.



<LIKES>

+ 36 volts gives LOTS of power - mulches effortlessly

+ 20 inch cutting path (really 19-5/8", but our 19" B&D was only 18-1/2)

+ Tall metal deck gives more complete mulching

+ Wheel placement BIG plus for cutting next to fences, trees





<DISLIKES>

- Toro Customer Service

- Does not store vertically like the B&D

- Wheels adjust individually

- No dead man bar

- Grass catcher very small (perhaps 1/2 the volume of the B&D)

- Charger plug wobbles

- Bar not as ergonomic, also rubs against fence when mowing alongside.





<COMPARO>

I've put a quick guide of the most popular models on Amazon. All info reported by manufacturer. Amazon won't let me put prices in my review, sorry!



MOWER............Path/Volt/Watt-hr......WT............COMMENTS



Neuton CE5.3............14"/24V/240......48#....Plastic deck, Removable batt.

B&D CM1836..............18"/36V/NA.......64#....Plastic deck

Greenworks 25092......18"/24V/480......95#....Self Propel, Removable Batt

Worx ECO WG780.......19"/24V/408......80#....Removable Battery

Haussmann CLM46NU...19"/24V/NA........94#....Haussmann who?? Metal deck

B&D CMM1200.............19"/24V/432......76#....Update to our old CM1000

B&D CM1936...............19"/36V/360.......72#....Plastic deck, Removable Batt

Neuton CE6................19"/36V/360.......69#....Plastic deck, Removable Batt

Earthwise 60120..........20"/24V/480......92#....Metal deck, Removable Batt

Toro 20360.................20"/36V/432......77#....Metal deck







<FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS>



>>Why SHOULD I get a cordless electric mower? They are super quiet, clean, and convenient. They aren't necessarily cheaper than a gas mower since they cost more up front but there is almost NO maintenance. (We spent [...] over 10 years for a set of replacement batteries.) Corded electric mowers are a lot cheaper but then you have a cord. Also, certain models like the B&D can be stored vertically since there is no oil or gas to leak out



>>Why SHOULDN'T I get a cordless mower? Up front cost (Typically [...] more) Also, They weigh significantly more than gas mowers so if you have a hilly lot or have difficulty with physical exertion, forget it. They don't have as much power as gas (even the 36V ones) and re-fueling means charging for a few hours so if your lot is over ½ acre you may want to reconsider.



>>Why do they all come with mulching PLUS bagging? Electric powered mowers have come a long ways but mulching still takes a LOT more power than discharging, so bagging is pretty much a standard feature for when you let your grass get too long.



>>What is a watt-hour? It's basically how big your gas tank is - the more watt-hours, the longer you can mow before you have to recharge.



>>Is the cutting path a big deal? It can be - 1) The first thing manufacturers do when power is marginal is reduce the blade size, so I tend to see the smaller mowers as more likely to be underpowered. Second, when you consider a ~3" overlap on each pass, a 20" blade effectively cuts 13% more than an 18" (especially since manufacturers generally inflate their blade lengths by about 1/2") If you have a larger yard, you definitely do NOT want anything under 18"



>>Why might I want a removable battery? If you have a large yard, you can swap out for more run time (Note that a second battery typically costs [...]). Also, You WILL need to replace the batteries eventually, and a this makes it easier (Note that I replaced the CMM1000 batteries by myself, about a 20 minute job requiring only a screwdriver and pliers) Finally, if you keep the mower in a shed that doesn't have power, a removable battery will let you bring it in for charging.



>>Why should I care about higher voltage? Higher voltage = more power, PLUS you can recharge the mower faster. With the same chemistry and current, a 36V mower will charge 50% faster than a 24V mower.



>>Metal deck or plastic? Metal rusts but with minimal care it's not an issue. Plastic does get scratched up, and since it isn't as strong, it makes for a larger mower.



If you've found this review helpful or have questions/comments, please let me know! Toro 20360 e-Cycler 20-Inch 36-Volt Cordless Electric Lawn Mower'

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Cordless Electric Mower Cordless Electric Mower Cordless Electric Mower

Horrible - useless

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This was a horrible buy. I wish I could give it zero stars. I also wish it was worth something to send it back. The support cords where frayed in a couple of places. The rubber tube that is supposed to go over the bow was slide over completely to one side of the cords.... making for a good 30 mins of sliding it into the middle so I could use it. the pole is poorly made, one of the pole button clips was broken and rattles inside the pole. I ended up drilling another hole and placing a screw in it. The supports put some stress on your windshields so make sure you have those small support legs on them or you could damage your windshield. Even after playing with it day after day I never could get it tight enough to get rid of my puddles in the back of the boat.

It was usless in the end and I ended up making my own support system out of plywood and PVC pipe. Cannot recommend this product. Cheaper to buy some things, be creative, and make your own support system. Cover Up Boat Cover Support

where do I start ??

First ... no instructions just the picture on the front of the box... not to helpful.

Middle... The aluminum support pole doesnt support so well.

Last... straps, straps, and even more straps. Without any instructions my assembly ability was limited.

After carefully reading most of reviews, I knew I need this product. In California the rainy season started several weeks ago. I store my boat in open area. Like many of us I am trying to save my boat from elements using decent cover, but am refusing to use expensive under the roof storage options. Regular, well fitting universal cover for my 20 foot Bayliner cuddy boat is doing its job very well, but after every rain i needed to visit my boat in storage facility and take care of about one from the front and three buckets of the water from back of the boat

Reading complains that this support is having way too long webbing and two triangular plates instead of expected one only???, I knew I will find a good use of them. Every model of boat is different and in my opinion it's virtually impossible to build cheaply anti-rain support fitting perfectly all of them without a need for adjustments. In this kind of installation, invention and open mind is very welcome, so I used them to get it working right. One thing I found unsatisfactory in this set was too short mast. It might work on bass boat but in my Bayliner the windshield is about 4.5- 5 ft from the floor, the fully extended mast supplied was at least six inches too short. This should be corrected by maker of this support. All the rest is just fine. Second triangular plate (the one with slots not cut open) is for supporting the mast from the bottom. My floor is carpeted and strong, so I do not need plate on the floor and saved it as eventual replacement of the upper one, in case it brakes after years of use.

My first installation was a copy of their suggestion. So I put mast about 1 foot behind the windshield and 2-3 inches above it. (To achieve this I cut the piece of metal broom stick of very similar diameter, nicely extending the length of supplied one. Source: Albertson's - cost about S4.00). The webbing was installed from the high rail on the bow to the mast and splitting there. From mast two webbings were going to clevises installed in my boat at two rear corners of the hull. After that I was left with extra triangular board and about 30 ft of extra webbing. I went home happy with the look of the boat and waited for the next rain. It came three days later. Results? Perfectly dry back of the boat and about one bucket of water trapped between high rail on both sides of boat and two narrowly spaced webbings, going from mast to the bow. To correct the problem, using left-over webbing, I added two more webbings on each side, going from mast to the rail about half way between windshield and bow. About week later another rain hit hard. Next morning I visited the boat. No drop of water found, problem solved. If maker of this support reads these reviews, PLEASE SUPPLY LONGER MAST AND EXPLAIN THE NEED TO BE CREATIVE, giving a few more hints how to protect the boat from accumulation of water. Covers when dry, might look pretty tight, but after wind and rain water starts working on them, they develop first pockets which become deeper as heavy water fills them. The trick is to make a shape of cover this way, that even when wet, it will not start collecting the water, even in small amount. Boat shapes differ greatly. My boat is happy with the purchased support. I give four starts only as the piece of broom stick deserves the remaining fifth. - Useless'

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Horrible - useless useless Horrible - useless

Sports Headphones - headphones, sport headphones

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I have been in search of a pair of headphones for running for about a year. I have tried primarily earbud style designs. I have not tried in-ear designs because I do not like the sound isolation provided by in-ear. I feel this is a safety issue for running. The earbuds I have tried simply lack bass. Even though the specs of the earbuds I have tried show a frequency response down to 20 Hz, there seems to be a bass roll off.



The MDR-AS20J have very good bass. They have 13.5 mm dome type drivers as opposed to typical 9 mm drivers of earbuds. What also helps with the bass is the clip design. The clip design pushes the bud firmly but gently in the ear which helps with the bass response. Other earbuds slide out slightly which has a dramatic effect on bass.



The MDR-AS20J stay in place while running. You literally can just forget about them. They will not budge. The cord is also very light which helps with the bouncing of running. The MDR-AS20J are very comfortable for me though they are not adjustable. Some users may have fit issues.



These headphones have a very low impedance (16 ohms). That means just about any device can drive them to very high volumes, and at normal listining volumes, they will take less power.



These headphonse are weather and sweat resistant. Another important consideration for running.



These headphonse sound great. They have a balanced sound that does not over or under emphasize any frequency range. I used to watch movies in bed with a pair of high quality home headphones. The MDR-AS20J can hold ground even with my flagship headphones. I now use the MDR-AS20J for home listing in bed simply because they sound really good and they are so comfortable. You can fall asleep with them on as opposed to large headphones that get in the way.



I would give these headphonse about 10 hours of break in before judging them. CNET gave an OK review of these headphones. I doubt they let them break in. When you first get them, there will be slight distortion in the midrange which results in a muddy sound. This will go away.



You cannot go wrong with these for under $20. Sony Mdr-As20J Active Style Headphones with Soft Loop Hangers (Black)

I have been enjoying the Sony MDR-AS207J headphones since April and have not been happier with a pair of clip-on/in-ear headphones. Earbuds (like those included with most mp3 players) do not stay in my ears, even with the addition of optional size adjusters, especially at the gym, so after several years of purchasing earbuds of every brand and type I resorted to the less comfortable but terrible sounding MDR-J10's until this model came out. The soft rubber is flexible and comfortable, and because it goes completely around the back of the ear, the headphones stay in place. I where mine everyday, going to work or class, and run with them several times a week and they actually stay in place every time, something no other in-ear headphone has done for me. Some other advantages to clip-ons vs earbuds is that these clip-ons do not block out ambient noise, so you will be safe when out and about. They are comfortable, even after several hours, and I have even worn them to bed several times. Also these headphones sound really really good, especially for $20 headphones. My hearing is not great after years of working around power tools, but I was pleasantly surprised by the sound quality, especially after the dismal MDR-J10s. While the sound is not comparable to a pair of high-end, noise canceling headphones, I find it rather comparable to the Sennheiser PX100s, which are a mid-range headphone. So for everyday use when out and about you cannot go wrong with these. Save the audiophile listening sessions for something nicer. After 3 months of heavy use, these headphones show no wear or frays in the cord coating, and have held up to sweating in 90 degree weather and moderate rain. Speaking of the cord, I have found the length (which is pretty standard) to be perfect. I have enough cord to allow me to place my iPod in any pocket when walking around, and have not found it to be inconvenient when at the gym or running outside. The cord is too long for use with armbands unless you wrap it or use an armband with a cord holder (like the Tune Belt Open View Armband). After 20+ different pairs of earbuds and other in-ear headphones of the last 2 years, I have never been more pleased with 'active' headphones. They will fit your ears and stay in place in virtually any activity and the price is so low I actually purchased several pairs just in case they stop manufacturing them.

These work great as far as staying in my ears securely (something the ipod buds I have do not do). The sound quality is not as good as my ipod ear buds, but I was loving them for working out in the gym until they started to crackle, and then shocking my ears. I read about headphones doing that in other reviews (not necessarily for these), but couldn't imagine what that would be like until it happened to me. I'm going to try to exchange them, and I hope the new ones will be better, because otherwise, they are awesome. I only used them lightly for a couple months, and never outdoors. They never got wet or sweaty, so I'm not sure what happened. Also, I have very small ears and these fit great and are comfortable.

Like many other picky runners, I have been in search of the "perfect" headphones for quite some time now. The standard iPod ear buds fall out of my ears (as do most other ear buds) and it seems as though every other pair of headphones I tried required constant adjusting while running. That's not the case with these! I wore these during about an hour of cardio (a 30 minute run and 30 minutes on an elliptical trainer) and I never had to adjust them once. They didn't even have that feeling like they're about to fall off. These take some slight mangling to put on my ears, but once they're on, they're staying.



I'm no audiophile, but I feel that the sound quality is pretty decent. I've heard better and worse, but for a $20 pair of headphones, I think the sound is pretty darn respectable.



The only thing I can nit-pick with these is that the cord is too long, although it comes with a cord clip to resolve this issue. Overall though, I'd HIGHLY recommend these. I've tried numerous pairs of headphones and these are by far the best. - Running - Headphones - Sport Headphones - Sports Headphones'

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Cut-off Saw - metal-cutting saws

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This saw does the job for metal cutting but it is a little light in the base frame area and the rubber feet are rather light duty. Watch for them, they fall off fairly easy. I put some "Goop" on them to keep in place. Also arrived slightly damaged due to inadaquate packaging and the rough handling from UPS. This seems to be a popular theme with UPS as several other items they have delivered arrived damaged. It appears that perhaps they start throwing them out of the planes and/or trucks before they come to a complete halt??!! In all fairness , UPS is not the only one at fault. Companies [Hitachi, Jet, etc] need to wake up to the fact that you cannot send an item like a chop saw or a midi-lathe etc. in flimsy boxes with less than acceptable packing foam,and cardboard that is way too thin. Amazon should get on there case! Hitachi CC14SF 14-Inch Portable Chop Saw - Metal-cutting Saws'

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Survival Gear - survival gear, survival

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UPDATED(3-28-2011) - SEE UPDATE SECTION AT END:



I tried this magnesium fire starting tool - SE(Emergency Fire Starter - SE - Emergency Fire Starter) out as well as the alternative from (from Doan Machinery & Equipment - "Genuine Issue Magnesium Survival Fire Starter" Genuine Issue Magnesium Survival Fire Starter).



Both tools work perfectly fine as described and were able to light up fine fibers(cotton, moss, dried grass) and paper without a problem. The Doan tool has more precise instructions and clearly states on the packaging to scrape the magnesium portion of the bar with a knife blade PERPENDICULAR to the edge of the tool. I found this to method made for the most shavings and larger shavings at that. The packaging clearly states that you want a QUARTER(U.S. Coin) sized amount (just shy of 1 inch or 2.4cm diameter) Then holding the bar at 45 degree angle to the pile of shavings drag the knife along the flint to create sparks. The directions remind you to hold the blade perpendicular to the bar while "striking" the flint. I would advise not to strike the flint as they are brittle. However, a nice quick full length drag of the blade down the flint creates a shower of sparks for easy ignition of the magnesium shavings.



Both brands work fine. They are nearly identical in shape(the SE is a few mm longer). Each brand has a different finish/coating on the bar itself is about the only difference I can tell. The performance seemed to be identical or at least close enough to not notice anything to complain about. The big difference is the price. The SE(made in China) is about half the price of the Doan(Made in USA - Patented). It appears to me that they are both the same design with slightly different execution of it, and one is just made overseas so that is why it's cheaper(unless there is less active "ingredients"(magnesium).



One other note: The SE(Chinese one) also comes with a saw blade striker that does work but you need to wear through a protective layer of lacquer for it to work and it's just small enough to annoy my large hands. I just stick with a cheap staineless steel pocket knife for this. I always carry about 3-4 blades when I'm out hiking(cheap folder that I don't care if it gets ruined, sometimes a higher quality folder, always a fixed blade that is larger with full tang, and usually a multi tool(leatherman).



You can't go wrong with either tool. I'd prefer to buy American(Doan - the "other" one) in the long run though, especially for something I might end up having my life depend on.



EDIT: One last note on product life- depending on how much magnesium you need to get your fire going each time, I think the flint will run out long before you ever use up all the magnesium.



UPDATED: 03-28-2011



There have been a ton of reviews mentioning that the DOAN tool being purchased is no longer made in USA or shipped as a knock off. Be careful which seller you buy from. I will be posting pictures later today that show the SE Tool side by side with the Doan tool. I no longer have the packaging to show what they look like however.



The seller I purchased the DOAN GENUINE ISSUE from was known as "CLASSICAL FITNESS & HEALTH" / "Waterglider LLC". They no longer have it stocked apparently.



A GENUINE DOAN FIRE STARTER SHOULD HAVE THIS INFORMATION STAMPED ON ONE SIDE WITH AN ADDRESS ON THE OTHER. THE FIRST LINE IS THE NSN(Nato Stock Number):

"

4240-01-160-5618

FSCM 62561

MFR/PN 8702

FIRE STARTING TOOL

MAGNESIUM

U.S. PATENT NO. 4,188,192

"



Reverse Side:

"

SPARKING INSERT

MFD. BY DOAN MACH. & EQUIP. CO. INC.

P.O. BOX 21334

SO. EUCHLID, O. 44121

SHAVING EDGE

" Emergency Fire Starter

I received this today, and it works great. I would suggest using the back (non-serrated) edge of the steel to shave the magnesium and the serrated edge for striking the flint. The magnesium block and flint both have some kind of coating, so the first time you use it it'll take a few extra tries. I've seen these selling for double or triple the price and people were happy to pay it, so this is an excellent deal!

I bought this along with the Swedish Firesteel to test them out. I like this product due to the fact that you can shave the magnesium off and use it to start the tender, however I found that the flint was difficult to use and did not put off much spark. It did spark, though. The swedish firesteel throws of a much bigger and hotter spark and was much easier to use, however if you do not have good tender it doesn't matter much. I think that having both of them together is good and they are both are a relatively inexpensive purchase if you consider how valuable they are when needed.

I recently bought this and received it in the mail in about two days.

I opened the package and the instructions were very clear on how to use it. Great product it works its not expensive and very helpful.

This works as advertised for starting fires.



You can create magnesium shavings with a knife or the serrated edge of the striker, or you can use different tinder (dryer lint, Tinder-Quik and WetFire all worked for me without any Mg.)



The flint and striker produce a nice shower of sparks that's easy to get to ignite your tinder. I believe it would be good for thousands of uses.

A friend and I went out today hunting for morels, and decided to try this tool in semi-moist conditions. We were able to ignite a fist-sized bundle of grass and thistle into an amazingly hot fire very quickly. We scraped the shavings onto the dented side of an aluminum can, moved them gently into the tender bundle, and ignited them with a few strokes of the flint.



We were both shocked at the ease and success of the initial attempt.



The flint seems to have a coating on it, which may need to be worn off before good sparks will be produced. After it was a bit "worn", we were getting heavy sparks which would ignite dry tinder, even without the magnesium, most likely (though this was not tested, as tinder was moist). The magnesium gave substantial heat and height to the first flames, and the bundle went up very quickly.



Even those used to using flint and strikers should think about the addition of magnesium to their kit. In wetter weather, it provides a great burst of heat that might be the critical "push" to getting a good fire started--especially lacking proper tinder.



This is a great price and item that might give substantial ease and comfort in a bad situation. - Emergency Kit - Survival - Survival Gear - Camping'

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Ipod Touch Charger

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Any time I purchase an item this inexpensive, I'm always apprehensive about connecting it to a considerably more expensive device and risk damaging the connected device.



Therefore I decided to evaluate this charger with a dummy-load. I measured the charging current draw of my old Sansa MP3 player, which was nominally 180ma. For USB, the charger should maintain nominal output voltage of 5VDC, under various loads. Here are the results of the evaluation.

Open-circuit (no load) output voltage: 5.15VDC

Output voltage with 10 ohm (10 watt) resistor: 4.83VDC (ripple less then 200mv, sawtooth waveform, 30KHz, nominal current draw 480ma).



I burned-in the device under continuous load for 24 hours; the re-measured output voltage showed no substantial change. Also, after the burn-in period, the 2.4 watt load draw did not result in a significant temperature rise felt in the charger itself.



Disclaimer: These results are for the single unit I evaluated, I make no claims that all, or any other chargers of this type will produce the same results. It's clear that I did not stress to unit to it's maximum stated capacity of 1000ma. Users should not assume that their USB devices will not exceed the current draw rating of the device, particularly when charging more then one device. I have done this evaluation for my own purposes; I have no connection with any of the sellers, or the manufacturer of this device.



UPDATE: I used the charger to successfully recharge the Sansa MP3 player without issue. Of course, at this point I can not speak to reliability over time, as I just started using the device. As a side point, the power pins of the unit I have appear to be very firmly attached; again this is the only unit I have at this point (three more on order), so I can not speak to quality-control as regards this USB charge in general. Reminder, care should be taken not to exceed the current ratings of the device, as this could result in over-heating the charger, which could in turn result in loosening of the power pins. AC to Dual Port USB Wall Charger

I spent a considerable amount of time reading various reviews on the lowest priced USB wall chargers and other plugin chargers for the Apple iPod Touch.



The majority of them had a very large amount of poor reviews that included problems such as breaking, not working, malfunctioning and cause problems with devices used with, etc... So, consequently I was afraid I may be wasting my money on a product that might not even work cause the price is just so super cheap.. 15 cents for a USB charger + $2.97 shipping... I thought, yeah, right.. it can't possibly be that good for this price, particularly when Apple sells their made in china OEM for $30 and UP, but hey, for this price I figured I'd take a chance since it worked well for the other 4 whom left reviews, and I am glad I did.



It works and charges well. If you need a battery charger for your ipod or iphone for when you're not home or at a computer, this is a must have item. You don't need to spend $30 for an Apple one just because it's Apple when both the Apple one and this one are made in China, but this one works perfect and is a price you just can't beat.

I used this charger on a trip I took recently. Any time I landed in an airport, when sitting around waiting for a connecting flight I would plug this into the wall and then plug my ipod touch into one of the two open usb ports. I have a second generation ipod touch 16gig memory and this charger worked great with it.



I have been using it a lot at home as well to charge up my ipod touch because sometimes I don't feel like getting my computer out just to charge the device. So I leave this plug connected to a wall socket and just plug my ipod touch into it - works like a charm.

Bought this based on the relatively good reviews. Charged my iPhone 3GS once with it. Tried again two days later and this thing was dead.



I've tried a number of cheap chargers. Most were a complete bust like this one. Only cheap one that's lasted for me is the one called "Premium Rapid Home Travel Wall Charger ". It's the one with the blue LED light on it.

This item failed on first use. When I opened it up (I'm an electrical engineer... I had to open it, didn't I?) I found a decent circuit board, average components and the worst soldering job ever. What failed? The wires that were soldered to the back of the steel plug blades were cold soldered and came apart. Plus the blades were held in place with a friction fit which also failed, leaving exposed metal in the socket when the plug came apart. Construction is so bad that I estimate that the electrical integrity is likely just as bad and may actually harm delicate electronics like cell phones. Be careful and avoid this one!!!!

Purchased this travel charger almost a year ago. Worked fine for awhile (as long as I had it plugged into the wall outlet and didn't "travel" with it. A few weeks ago I took it out of it's usual position and carried it into another room to charge iPod. When retrieving it to take it back to its normal position, one of the metal prongs just came out! I was blessed that I wasn't electrocuted.



I believe I paid about 10 cents plus $3 shipping.



Moral of the story: "You usually get what you pay for."



Advise: Don't do it!

I bought this to replace my old USB charger which is not compatible with my new iPod touch 3G. It works great. I also use it to charge my Nokia cell phone, and charge AA/AAA Ni-Mh rechargeable batteries with an cheap ebay USB AA/AAA battery charger. All work great. And what I like it most is that it has two ports, so you can charge two items at the same time. For less than $4, I cannot be more satisfied.

Power pin came out in the wall socket. Had to flip the house breakers

to get it out. Inserted it back in the charger and plugged it in.

Heard arcing noises and the GFC tripped on the outlet. Device

no longer functions. Pulled on the other electrical pin and it

came out. They aren't secured to the device.



Worked on most of our clips until it broke.



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eForCity Universal Black 2 Port USB Travel Charger Adaptor

for iPhone / iPod / PDA / Digital Camera'

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