Tuesday, 20 July 2010

Yoga Accessory


Love this yoga mat accessory! I wanted to find something to haul one of my yoga mats to the gym so I wouldn't have to work out using the germ infested batch of mats at the gym. I went online to Amazon and found this one, not only is it cute,it does the job, simple as that!Would reccomend this product! Embroidered Yoga Pilates Mat Sling Strap - Alaskan'


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Full Spectrum - energy efficient, compact fluorescent bulbs


I am an engineer who has been completely disgusted with the home lighting situation. There are no standards and many misstatements and counterdictions at the stores. I own a Minolta flash meter which accurately measures a lights color temperature. I've tried the bulb technology at Walmart, Sams Club Home Depot and Lowes. The most glaring examples:

1) yellow light is called soft white (2700)

2) very blue washed-out color light is called daylight (6000-6500)

3) Low lumen (400-600 lumens) LED lights go for as much as $90!

4) Some bulbs are advertised as white but the chart on the back shows its yellow. Go Figure!



Here are the bulbs to avoid: all (harsh washed-out blue) daylight, and (yellow) soft white. The GE Reveal offers somewhat better clarity, but is overpriced and quite yellow.



Full spectrum (5000-5500) bulbs are a step-up but stores offer a very limited selection. The Home Depot full 100w spectrum's beats the Lowe's Ott-Lite.



On the LED front Sam's Club carries a 520 lumen, 4100K, 9 LED PAR38 reflector which has a easily noticeable smoother light spectrum. Great for the one light on in the kitchen in the evening. The equivalent $70 LED lights at the hardware store are hardly a bargain, as the Sam's is $20! However its Color Retention index (CRI)is only 74.



The best of all are lights are these 5500K Alzo's. I've installed a 45w in the kitchen pantry and the color of the food boxes really pop. Food looks like it does in the magazines. The clarity is first rate (however 27w should be sufficient). They are the reference to which others are to be compared. My wife has not complained even when they are on at night-time. This is a first.

Skin tones in the bathroom look very natural. A first again.



Color temperature alone is not the sole basis to buy a bulb as a high CRI is also required. The Alzo's come in at 92, which is very high. Most manufactures do not even list this measurable figure (assume because its too low).



I've been testing other bulbs. For vanity and lamps (Alzo does make any) these offer a VERY uniform ball of nice white 5000K glow. I ordered 12 for my new house's bathrooms:

Maxlite 14 Watt G30 Globe CFL DL SKM14EGDL



For kitchen these are now the best 5000K PAR lights. Not as high of color quality as Alzo, but they don't make reflector lights!

Maxlite 23 Watt CFL R40 Flood Day Lite SKR423FLDL



In summary best home lights are the Photo CFL which offer both a 5000-5500K range with a CRI over 90. Further these bulbs allow for brighter rooms, as compared to hardware store types. That is, the more pleasing light allows for greater brightness levels, so go for the 45watt bulbs in larger pantries or rooms.



Thanks go to Amazon and Alzo for allowing consumers to purchase superior quality products at a price no higher than the unpleasant and unsatisfying bulbs in the store. Hope this helps! Full Spectrum Light Bulb - ALZO 27W Compact Fluorescent - Case of 4 - Daylight Balanced 5500K - Pure White Light - the Joyous Light

These things give off a lot of bright white light with a slightly bluish tint. The chromatic variance off of true white is subtle however most people do not realize how used to the strong yellow tones of the average incandescent or CFL bulb. While science has a lot to say about the positive benefits of using a full spectrum light bulb, choosing this particular bulb requires a keen awareness of your use.



These lights are sturdy, are a little bit heavier than your average CFL, and are about a coil and a half too long for most residential lighting fixtures which were sized for the former incandescent bulbs.



ALZO is a great choice, if you need a smaller one, look for one with a slightly smaller watt rating, and also count the coils. This bulb would be an excellent choice for larger rooms and lights where more light is necessary - and where the mount supports its longer length.

these bulbs are awesome. pure white light. no blue, no yellow, just pure white. i also ordered the 43 watt alzo bulbs and although they are rated at double the lumens i prefer this size. it seems to give almost as much light output while being 1/3 smaller and using about 40% less energy.

they are slightly pricey considering u can get a 'bright white' 4100k 2 pack of 26 watt bulbs for 6 dollars at home depot, but these give slightly better light for those that need pure light to show details. such as photography, autodetailing, woodworking, painting etc.

I'm a painter - of canvases, not houses. I need an indoor light source that's as much like natural daylight as possible, so my color choices will be accurate and consistent, and not "surprising" when viewed somewhere other than my studio.



Before ordering the ALZO 4-pack of 27-watt bulbs I called the ALZO company, which is actually a manufacturer of photography-related products. I spoke with Joseph (or Yosef?) there, who is a professional photographer with decades of experience. He answered my questions with real expertise and I felt entirely confident in ordering the ALZO bulbs from Amazon.



My Amazon order arrived with the usual Amazon efficiency. The bulbs are individually boxed, with all four boxes packed inside an outer box. They are LARGER than you might expect, but my application is utilitarian, so that's not a problem. See the dimensioned illustration on the Amazon product page.



The light is BRIGHT(!) and very WHITE(!) and for me, the 27W size is all I need (though I may find use for the 35W version eventually). According to Joseph, 5,500 degrees Kelvin is as close as you can get to natural daylight (5,600K) and what I see supports that statement well. I expect to use two bulbs when painting; that's a mere 54 watts of electricity for a LOT of balanced, bright "daylight". The energy savings are much appreciated.



As long as the large bulb size does not present a problem, I suggest you buy this four pack. The price per bulb is MUCH lower than that of competing bulbs and the quality seems good. A Good Value, sez I.



BONUS: As I understand it, these bulbs also provide the type of light used to overcome S.A.D. (Seasonal Affective Disorder), a sort of depression that can occur in winter months when we tend to receive too little sunlight (not enough Vitamin D from sunlight, actually). FYI: You can take 5,000 IU of vitamin D supplement daily to compensate.



This winter, I think I'll feel EVEN BETTER when I paint under this light source. - Compact Fluorescent Bulbs - Energy Efficient - Light Bulb - Accurate'


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Flex-shaft Kits - woodworking, rotary tool accessories


I've found the flex-shaft to be one of the most useful Dremel tool accessories. It's great for those remote, hard-to-reach areas of my work pieces where the width of the tool itself would hinder my efforts, ot it just can't reach. It took a while for me to get the hang of using it, since it required a bit more hand control than I originally anticipated. Just make sure to keep it as straight as possible, and don't bend it too much- it heats up pretty quickly, especially at the bends. And heat's the big killer of this accessory. Also, be sure to have a bit of the flex-shaft grease handy for occasional lubrication.The only thing that annoys me about the flex-shaft is that it won't accept a chuck to secure the bits, just collets. This can be a major frustration when I'm doing work that requires constant bit changes, with different bit diameters. Just when I thought I was rid of those pesky collets forever...`Late Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment

They have the MultiSaw, they have the Chuck, even the magnet-powered Dremelite, but nothing comes close to the Flexshaft. This baby is THE essential attachment for a Dremel. It comes with easy-to-read instructions on How to put it on, and it even has a diagram showing the different parts and the part numbers. (in case something gets broken, as in my case). This thing is incredible. I polish silver Quite a bit with my Dremel, and this thing makes it easy to get into those ultra-hard-to-reach areas. (my current project is a silver clarinet of my grandmother's). If you only get one attachment for Your Dremel, This one is way out in front for the choice. (just don't put it past 30000 RPM unless you have the flex-shaft tool holder, not that anything bad will happen, it just makes this annoying chattering noise).



5 out of 5

I've had my 350 series Dremel for over ten years, now, and that poor workhorse of a tool has seen a LOT of use in that time, carving everything from wood to bone to amber to turquoise. My only beef about that awesome little bit of technology is the amount of vibration it puts my wrist through- ouch. If I've been going for a couple of hours (my average time on it is three hours at a stretch), my hand is a distorted, cramped up mess due to the vibration...



Enter the flex-shaft. I got to try one of the old ones (the plain, black cased pen type) a bunch of years back, and I'd loved it then, but couldn't afford one. They were still fairly new, and I was just starting out with learning how to use my tool anyway. But I'm getting serious into the carving, lately, and my wrist just couldn't handle it, so I went nosing around for that wonderful little pen I could carve with and found the new model here. At first, I was worried that it wouldn't be compatible with my beastie, which was old when I got it as a gift, but I looked up the specs, did some digging and found that it should fit with my model.



Awesome.



So I ordered it. :)



Got it in less than a week and a half, and I immediately went for the little set of instructions, read 'em, did all the prep stuff to set it up, and started playing around with some silver I'd been saving to polish. Yes! I could work without my poor hand going numb! More awesome.



So, all that windy blather aside, I'm happy with the flex-shaft. It's everything I'd hoped for it to be: lightweight (definitely an issue with my joints), easy to use, and quite compatible with my old Dremel. I should have gotten one these ages ago!

I wont repeat what everyone else has said about this being a fine tool,It is and my only gripe about it is that it is not really a heavy duty piece. If you try to grind a cylinder head port you will find out fairly quickly that this flex shaft is for light duty only and will overheat and or become disconnected internally. Otherwise it works very well on all manner of things.

Great tool as has been said by others.. but wanted you to know if you own an older model Dremel tool as I do, this will fit some of them.



It fits my older model 380 just fine and works great. Not sure why Dremel doesn't list it as working, unless it's just TOO old to worry about.



There may well be variables between all the models they put out over the years so can't say "ALL" older models so be sure and check it out first.



But there is reason to check like I did 8-)

I use my dremel to drill holes in glass. The flex shaft is great because it's easy to handle and allows me to drill into water without risking putting my dremel into water. I also like using it with the foot pedal and the chuck. The flex shaft does what it says it does and does it well.

With the Flex Shaft it becomes far easier to do fine detailed work especially on small items. The power loss with my Dremel 800 series cordless wasn't a problem at all for doing some simple engraving and jewelry work.

Also note that the MULTIPRO Chuck (Amazon B0000302ZV )I bought a few months back works fine with this flex extension.

I have only just attached this accessory to my Dremel tool today, but I like it so far. The packaging states that this tool fits the following model Dremel tools: 400, 300, 398, 395, 285/200, 275/100, 800, 780, 4000, & 8200. The directions state that you cannot use router bits or other large diameter cutting bits because of possible kickback and loss of control. Also, the instructions advise that the flexible shaft can become disengaged if you don't elevate the rotary tool to a height that is higher than the flex shaft end, so you may want to purchase part #2222 (Rotary Tool Stand) to keep the rotary tool elevated. It accepts the following four collets: No. 480 (1/8"), No. 481 (3/32"), No. 482 (1/16"), & No. 483 (1/32"). The directions don't state anything about whether or not a chuck can be used with this system.

there a many design changes that improve function over the original flexshaft design. my hand doesn't get as tired as quickly as with the older version. however, you still have to be very careful to not let the shaft overheat and keep it lubed. - Attachments - Flex-shaft Kits - Woodworking - Rotary Tool Accessories'


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Baby Hooded Towel - hooded towel, spasilk


After washings these towels held up. (Ive done all the baby's things on delicate wash) They are adorable and perfect for newborn - small infant. Only advice is to not wash the hippo towel with other towels or outfits. It bleeds bright pink pretty bad. I hand washed this one the first few times. Frenchie Mini Couture Wild Animal Hooded Bath Towel Set, 3 Pack, Girl

These towels are what I expected; they are cute colors and fun prints, and are about as absorbent as any other baby towel - not very. If you are looking for something that you are going to get all wet when you hold your baby close after bath time try the Circo brand from Target. They have some pretty thick towels, but you pay the price for them (one Circo is as much as this set of 3). I think these are great though and do the trick. I would buy them again.

These towels are so cute! They're nice and soft and the color has held up nicely to a few washings so far. & you cant beat the price for all 3 of them! Im thinking of ordering another set just so that i dont have to do laundry as often.lol - Spasilk - Baby - Hooded Towel - Baby Bathing And Grooming'


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Garmin Friction Mount - gps mount, dashboard mount


After doing hours of research for a dash mount for my Garmin Nuvi 205w, I decided to give this one a try, and so glad that I did. I looked at the bean bag one and this one, and really wanted a smaller footprint and less bulky mount to put up on my dash. I was concerned about this mount and it rolling, flipping, or tumbling off the dash. To my surprise and delight it never moved !! I have tried it in both of our cars, even used it in the van for our vacation. Fits all three and sits there holding it's position. Some have made notes about a residue that is left behind, I experienced this in 2 of our vehicles, but when I cleaned the car and wiped the dash down, the `residue' was gone. Most likely from the silicone bottom on the mount that holds it in place. Love the flexibility and the fact that you can bent this mount to contour to your dash, and then the swivel mount allows you to adjust the Garmin to see it at any angle. Mounted in my car I took a few corners hard to try and tumble the mount w/ the Garmin, but no luck, it just sat there telling me where to go "literally". Granted I am sure you can tumble it of the dash if you hit a hard core bump or drive erratically, but everyday driving & circumstances it does it's job. If the bottom silicone gets icky from lint, dirt, debris, all you have to do is wipe it down with a cloth and good as new !!



Love the look, the small foot print, and the flexibility. I would recommend this mount to anyone that is looking for a more stylish, but completely functional dash mount, that can go with you most anywhere and in any vehicle.



Loving my Garmin Mount & Garmin Nuvi 205W... Garmin Friction Mount

I already have the "bean bag" mount and was glad to see this new, updated design, so I ordered. It does look more "factory". Was unpleasantly surprised when it arrived. The main upper portion is a pliable plastic that molds to the contours of your dash. The bottom, though, is a strange feeling silicone, that leaves your fingers feeling like you just handled a silicone spray or lubricant. Right on the packaging, but hidden from view until you remove the mount, is a message about cleaning residue left behind on your dash. Indeed, it even left an imprint mark on my kitchen counter while I was reading the packaging! Who wants to clean up a silicone stain every time you use it. I've already sent it back and will stick with the bean bag.

Got it to replace the Garmin bean bag friction mount. The base of this unit allows twisting to conform to the curves and contour of the dash.



This base will not move on the dash as it has a "sticky" base, however, the base and the mounted GPS toppled and rolled off my dash and landed on the front passenger seat when I cornered at moderate speed.



So while it won't slide, it can fly!

I was skeptical about buying this product at first. When I got it I was even more doubtful that it would work well since it was so light weight and small. How could this stay in place? Boy was I wrong. The rubber has a piece of metal in it so you can mold it to the dash board. The backing is just like one of those rubber lint rollers with a tacky side. I took really hard turns on exit ramps and it did not fall over. It holds in place solid. I did get a residual wet mark on the dash board kind of like when you use armour all and do not blend it in well. It does just wipe off with the palm of your hand though. I would recommend placing it in a zip lock bag or something when you take it down so it does not collect junk from under the seat. Clean up is easy with just soapy water and let air dry when too much dust accumulates. This is better than the bean bag.



I would also like to add that the reviewers saying this product falls off their dash is most likely because they do not clean their dashboard. Just like a lint brush, you must remove the lint for it to work!

I almost returned this item as I thought it was too unstable with my Nuvi 255WT. While driving on normal roads, I noticed the GPS was shaking to the point that navigating with it became downright annoying. I found the problem to be the rear of the flexible/sticky base where the mounting arm is attached. While the front of the base stayed firmly in place, the rear could twist up slightly from side to side resulting in the GPS shake I was experiencing. I believe this is because the rear of the base is more narrow than the front and therefore not as stable. For comparison, I switched back to my old Garmin sandbag mount and there was absolutely no shaking with that one. But, I really liked the looks, lower profile and better non-slip design of the friction mount and decided to work with it a bit more. Fortunately, I found that I could eliminate the shaking by pressing one/both bottom corners of the GPS unit into contact with the rubber base. This worked perfectly and with the shaking gone, and that sticky base stuck to the dash, my GPS has never felt more secure (better than the sandbag). I would definitely recommend this mount to others and if you experience the shaking problem, just try the tip I mentioned above.

Until I purchased this mount I only used the Garmin on road trips, now I used it almost all the time. It is almost like having a built in GPS. It sits on top of the dashboard, you just place where you want it and it stays, no suction cup needed. When you leave the car just place it on the floor out of sight with the GPS in place. I can program it while holding it close instead of reaching over the dashboard to the GPS mounted on the windshield. If you have a portable Garmin GPS this is the way to go.

This is a road warrior's dream. Garmin thought through the movable dash mount very carefully with this product.



I've travelled (airplanes to rental cars) for a few years with the Garmin bean bag mount Garmin Portable Friction Mount [Amazon Frustration-Free Packaging]. It's kind of a pain in the neck, you have to remove the arm completely, find a place to store that, and then find a place where that bean bag won't get all bent up. When you arrive, assemble all that junk and toss it on the dash.



This mount is simplicity and designed around tossing it in a carryon bag. The rubber / silicone base is about the diameter of a CD with an extesion about 1/2 that size. So it's compact. The arm for mounting the GPS folds almost completely flat. So the whole thing transports very easily.



Mounted on the dash, simply bend the pliable rubber base to conform to the dash, flip the arm up, snap in your GPS, and you're good to go. This thing holds the dash as well as the beanbags. No the GPS doesn't fly all over any more than it does with the beanbag.



And the base is some kind of strange material like a post it note. It does feel weird and smells odd the first few days. Any residue - no not happening. It sits on a Mercedes dash with no fear that it will ruin my dash.



This is a much more portable and solid version of a removable dash mount, than the beanbags. The pictures don't do it justice. - Garmin Mount - Dashboard Mount - Friction Mount - Gps Mount'


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Mac Os X - mac os x, macmini


[Update June 15, 2010: this version of the Mac Mini has been superceded by an even slicker looking, smaller, more powerful model. Unless you can get this model at a great closeout price, I would get the newer Mini. It looks great.]



First of all my credentials, I have been writing Mac software since 1992. I've had on my various desks a Mac Plus, Performa 605, PowerBook 100, several iBooks, PowerBook G4s, MacBook, PowerMacs 7600, 8100, G3, G4 and G5, a couple recent generation iMacs and a previous generation Mac Mini. I have seen Macs come and go, and I just love this little desktop. It is exactly what I need for compiling a large desktop application using Apple's development tools. What I need is a reasonably fast processor, Firewire, 4GB of RAM and multiple monitor support. I do not need a huge box filled with disks. I do not need some super fast GPU. I do not need PCI cards. If I did, then yeah, a Mac Pro would be sitting under my desk sucking up the Watts.



My company has also provided me with a monstrous, fully loaded, Dell whose case could hold upwards of 30 Mac Mini's. In the one processor intensive task I do--doing a full rebuild of a large C++ application--the Xenon processor and desktop hard drives in the Dell can complete the task in 6 minutes while the Core 2 Duo processor and laptop drives in the Mini can do the task in 13 minutes. If I were doing that task many times a day (as opposed to several times a week) then I would need to move up to a high end iMac or Mac Pro; but I don't and I can live with the more typical single change, compile, link time of 14 seconds on the Mini versus a very erratic 6 seconds on the Dell (for whatever reason Visual Studio on the PC will sometimes take over a minute to do this).



Why is this Mac Mini a better value then the MC238LL/A at the lower price? Because it adds more RAM, a larger hard drive, and a slightly faster CPU, and I don't have to pop it open to max it out. All three things together make it worth the extra dough. If you are just going to use it for a home theatre PC, as many people do, then added expense is probably not worth it and you should go with the lesser model.



Why would you choose this over a current generation iMac? The iMacs are great machines, and can be ordered as quite the powerhouses with i5 or i7 processors, and with desktop level graphics engines, but they might be overkill and in the long run it may not make sense to be ordering machines where you can't reuse the previous machine's monitor. If you have a monitor already, the Mini will be several hundred dollars cheaper. Also, if the monitor has multiple inputs, the Mini bought today can be retired as a home server in a couple years with the Mini of the future stacked upon it sharing the same monitor. While the newest iMacs can be used as an external Display Port monitor, its still a bit inflexible tying the computer to the display. Having said this, I like the iMac too, and if you need a monitor and have the room, it may be the way to go.



Why is this Mac Mini much better than previous Mac Minis? The Mini has had several value adding changes over the last couple years: going from PowerPC to Intel, adding multiple monitor support, adding FireWire 800 support, and getting a decent GPU in the NVidia 9400M. This is a real computer. Not some dinky Ion laptop. It can do computationally intensive things, like in my case compiling hundreds of thousands of lines of C++ code. And yet it is tiny, and quiet.



So, yeah, I like this box.



What about the nearly as compact Dell Inspiron Zino HD? Well presumably you would buy the Mini because it is a Mac. The Zino is certainly cheaper, and is a valid competitor if you were setting up a home theatre PC, and could use the slightly better video card and Blueray option. If I were buying a Mini just to run Windows Media Center, I'd certainly be open to getting a Zino. I don't see an overlap between the uses of this non-home theatre Mini and the more multimedia centric Zino. I think you will find the Mini better made and faster at processor intensive operations: and it's definitely smaller.



Anyway, installation could hardly be simpler. Pop it out of the box, plug in a keyboard and mouse. It comes with a mini-DVI to DVI adaptor which will connect to any modern monitor, and you can get a mini-Display Port adaptor separately to add multiple monitor support. Power it up and you will soon be computing. It's nice, fast and quiet. Plenty of USB ports (5). Add up whatever peripherals you need: speakers, external hard drives (look at getting drives with Firewire 800, they are much faster and reliable than USB 2.0).



My wife has an older Mac Mini which she runs Windows Vista in Boot Camp mode and has done so without problem for over a year. I would think this Mini would be even better as a Windows 7 box with the much improved graphics chips allowing for better use of the Aero interface. Apple Mac mini MC239LL/A Desktop - Mac Os X - Desktop - Macmini - Mac'


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Artificial Intelligence - cognitive engineering, serious games


When I bought this book I wasn't quite sure what to expect since the title, "AI for Games and Animation: ..." is so broad sounding. What I did expect was that it would be written in an easy to read form and hopefully provide enough in-depth coverage of the topics so that a reasonable game programmer could implement them based on the information provided, without further research. This criteria seems to be adhered to in the technical articles in a publication such as Game Developer.Apparently, no-one bothered to tell Mr. Funge about this. Although the book does provide some case studies (examples) the actual details of their implementations are often glossed over or shrouded in unnecessary mathematical formalism that is out of place in a game programmer's book. To give an example, complex topics such as inverse kinematics and coupled spring systems are given several short paragraphs. In describing coupled spring systems for deforming a mesh, Funge uses "x dot" notation that most game programmers probably are not familiar with.The only saving grace is the reference section which can point the reader to more specific literature that may actually be helpful in constructing implementations of some of the techniques described in the book. This increases the rating from the worst (1 star) to 2 stars since it is actually pretty comphrensive. AI for Computer Games and Animation: A Cognitive Modeling Approach

The title of this book is its biggest flaw because it appears to cater to game programmers but the techniques described within it are not that useful. It appears that the book is marketed to the game programming community due to its immense size. Anybody interested it this book would be well advised to purchase the siggraph proceedings that it comes from because not only will you learn what this book is about, you will also have a large resource of other techniques that can be used for graphics and animation.Yes, John's technique is interesting and different ... however he does not have a gaming background, has never worked on games, and it is obvious that this book is simply an extension of a research paper. You can find better resources for both AI and game programming elsewhere.

This book is a fascinating mixture of perfectly reasonable AI techniques which are seldom useful for games, combined with useful but obvious techniques which are described better in a standard AI textbook.Overall, this book suffers greatly from a lack of relevance. There is no pseudocode, and the few examples in the book are poorly chosen and generally not representative of the real problems encountered in game AI programming. Similarly, many of the valuable techniques often used in game AI are not even mentioned.The book gives a brief overview of breadth-first, best-first, and depth-first search, but it entirely omits mention of the A* algorithm, some form of which is used in nearly every game that involves pathfinding.The book also covers a number of topics that are entirely out of place in a book about game AI. Chapter 2 is entirely devoted to game physics. Chapter 6 covers machine learning, a technique which is seldom used for games. And Chapter 11 covers texture mapping and deformable models, which, although important for games, have nothing to do with AI.The book does have some high points, such as the and the introduction to interval arithmetic. But even then, it wastes the reader's time with several pages of unnecessary mathematical proofs.Overall, I recommend avoiding this book. Not only will it not inform the reader, it presents a misguided notion of what game AI is all about.

The field of "artificial intelligence" is so broad, that even confining it to the domain of computer games doesn't help matters much. This book is not a cookbook on "how to write my monster code", but instead covers more of the general theory of behaviors and intelligence.I don't have a background in AI coding, so I'm not familiar with the standard AI texts another reviewer points to. Where this book excelled for me was its strong overview of AI and its applications. If you're looking for a book to hand you code for your next big game, I would look elsewhere. For a solid understanding of many of the issues of AI, this book worked quite well for me.I only gave it three stars because of its terseness and the lack of direct relevance (read: immediately usable code) for many people. For some, like myself, the book is valuable just for briefly surveying the field, allowing me to explore specific areas in more depth.

In this title, the author strives to take Artificial Intelligence to the next level. The cognitive approach is one where a character is given planning and reasoning skills with a behavioral outline and the character uses his own logic to determine its next actions. The book is designed for intermediate to advanced AI programmers, so the format of the book is quite technical (read as 'mathematics~ based'). The book guides you through such topics as, "Reactive Behavior Rules", "Hierarchical Finite-state Machines", "Precondition Axioms", "Sensing", "Embedding Goal-directed Behavior", Priority-based Control Systems", "Subgoals" and many other related issues.The book is roughly about 200 pages, and has 3 different examples for you to follow: a maze, a dinosaur world, and an undersea world. The maze is simple enough, its when you see the use of the cognitive approach in the dinosaurs and undersea creatures, that you realize the true potential of this method. In particular, I found the undersea world quite interesting. It consists of predatory sharks and merpeople. A shark will forage around systematically, going back to any spots it last saw a merperson, and will chase and try to eat any merperson it sees. Sounds simple enough. The merpeople have no weapons, but use their superior reasoning capacities to elude the 'jaws of death'. This is when things get cool. Using techniques described in the book, the author demonstrates how a merperson who has been given 'brave' characteristics will try and help a fellow merperson crying for help, as it tries to evade becoming the shark's next meal. The 'brave' merperson even risks his own cyber-life by hiding between rocks and getting dangerously close to the shark, trying to get its attention. A close call or two and the 'brave' merperson is finally able to distract the shark long enough for the other merperson to escape. The 'brave' one then leads the other back to the safety of the rocks and caves. Overall, pretty interesting reactions.When you start thinking like the author does, the whole realm of game character AI takes on a whole new meaning. Speaking of meanings, according to the Merriam Webster's Dictionary, cognitive is described as = 1 : relating or involving the act or process of knowing; including both awareness and judgment. ( from Latin -cognitio, from cognoscere, to become acquainted with, know, to come to know ) 2 : based on or capable of being reduced to empirical factual knowledge. This truly is the theory being presented in this book. It is definitely not a beginner's guide to AI, nor by any means a final authority on the subject. AI for Games and Animation is a book that helps you, the animator/ game designer, progress the way you think about your characters and how they will function for you in your next project. If the subject of AI programming pertains to you, you would be well off adding this new release to your collection. - Cognitive Engineering - Serious Games'


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