This stapler is well-designed and well-constructed. All hand contact areas are covered with black rubber material for comfortable use. The stapler's operation is smooth, and the handle is a "low stroke" design which reduces hand fatigue. I found it easy to pull, and was able to fire the stapler by squeezing using just two fingers. The stapler's body is made of "Aircraft Aluminum", so it is strong but lighter than the classic steel-bodied stapler.
Near the front of the stapler there is a "staple size / reload" window, which lets you see what size staples are currently loaded (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" or 6mm, 10mm, 14mm) and whether the stapler is almost empty.
At the front of the stapler there is a thumb wheel which flips the wire guide "cable tracker" down, or up and out of sight. This is a U-shaped piece of metal that protrudes about 1/8" downward from the front of the stapler. It is useful when stapling wires or cables. It shows where the staple's points will emerge (so you don't pierce the wire), and it keeps the front of the stapler from crushing the wire.
At the base of the stapler's handle there is a simple wire handle lock. Squeeze the handle closed, and then engage the handle lock. This is useful for storage, especially if you want to return the stapler to its original hard-plastic packaging.
At the rear of the stapler there is a switch to control the "High-Low Power" feature. You'll need to experiment to determine which setting is best.
I used this stapler for a challenging upholstery project. It smoothly drove 100+ staples into hard oak, without a single jam. I used Stanley-brand staples TRA04T 1/4-inch and TRA06T 3/8-inch; this stapler can also use Arrow-brand staples.
If you are stapling into hardwood, and the staple isn't going all the way in, it might be the fault of the staples rather than the stapler! Consider what size staple you are using. If you are stapling through one layer of thin material, then you should be using 1/4-inch staples, not 3/8-inch staples. In this situation, a 3/8-inch staple won't drive completely into the hard wood and its legs will buckle instead. But a 1/4-inch staple is relatively stiffer and will drive perfectly. If you are stapling through two layers of thicker material, then 3/8-inch staples are the better choice. Staples are inexpensive (but see below), so buy a variety of sizes and experiment to determine which size is best for your project.
If the staple is not quite all the way in, you can finish it off by tapping it with a hammer. But observe carefully -- if the staple is protruding a lot, its legs will buckle and the hammer will flatten the staple rather than driving it. In this case you'll need to remove and redo this staple. A staple remover comes in handy.
One note of caution -- staples are available for purchase here, but as of this writing they are available only from third-party sellers, so their shipping will exceed the price of the staples themselves. Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gun
I've used it on two projects using a total of about 150 staples. When using half inch staples into poplar wood they didn't always go all the way in. However when I adjusted the strength of the pull I had no problem (see lever at back of stapler. This is a cool feature.) I used five sixteenth staples on my second project and had no problems using the low setting. I had no problems with jamming on either project. I gave it four stars for now as I've only used it on two projects and can't speak to durability.
While most of us don't use heavy duty staplers on a daily basis, but if you are like me when you use it you need for it to work. I can say that I have never had an issue with Stanley Sharpshooter. It is never gotten jammed and it is a cinch to replace the staples (T50). In my opinion, I think that Stanley is the bell-weather for heavy duty staplers.
One thing that is a bit of complaint is that it doesn't always penetrate pine flush. In fact, about 30% of the time it leaves about 1/8" of the staple above the surface. While this isn't that big of deal (A flat-head screw driver will pop the staple with little effort). However, if the Stanley Sharpshooter was used in harder wood like Oak the staple may only go into the wood halfway. The question is... how often do you use your stapler in hard wood?
Things that I like
- Never had a miss feed - never jammed
- Easy to replace the staples
- Heavy duty steel construction
Areas for improvement
- It takes a fair amount of hand strength to operate - many women may have problems
- Staple doesn't consistently fully penetrate pine - you may have significant problems in hard wood.
Final verdict-
While there are some minor flaws the Stanley Sharpshooter is an excellent choice for most tool boxes
4 Stars
I use this at work for stapling insulation, plastic sheeting, radiant barriers, etc., and have used thousands of staples with it. I only recall one jam ever, which was easy to clear. This stapler is also lightweight and very quick and easy to reload. Like any stapler I've used it takes a lot of force to squeeze the handle, and after stapling all day my hand does get tired, but this one seems easier to use than others. The construction feels very solid and it seems very durable. I highly recommend this if you want a reliable, lightweight, and easy to load stapler.
I've had my Sharp Shooter Plus for a short time but after more than 2000 staples it has not jammed. If you use the manufacture recommended staples and brads you may not have a jamming problem. The manufacture recommends Stanley TRA 700 series or Arrow T50 staples.
You can easily adjust the force of the brad nailer/staple gun with high/low adjustments. It also accomodates brads ½ to 5/8 inch and staples ¼ to 9/16. It's solidly made and has a good balance in your hands. Mine is actually yellow in color which make it easier to find. There's also a cable/wire guide to assist you in stapling down cables/wires.
I (highly) recommend this tool for your tool box. Uses would apply to screens, signs, upholstery, insulation strips, holiday lights, cables/audio/wiring systems, framing, canvas art, radiant barriers etc. I am an avid DIY'r.'
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