Saturday, 11 December 2010

Ide Adapter - sata, usb


I bought this after an old laptop stop booting. I didn't want to buy an enclosure and this adapter was the best choice after I opened the old laptop to extract the hard drive. It was very easy to work with this USB adapter since it gives you a lot of connection choices, virtually to are able to connect any ATA or SATA drive through it, after open the package it took me couple of minutes to hook up to my other computer and start to recover my data. I highly recommend this not only to recover data but if you have a hard disk around now you can use it without to buy an enclosure. One more thing, this adapter works with Windows and Macs. SATA/PATA/IDE Drive to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for 2.5 / 3.5 / 5.25 Inch Hard Drive / Optical Drive with External AC Power Adapter

The price was great and the shipping was fast.

My only problem was that the device didn't come with instructions and I think that may have caused me to corrupt one of the harddrives by unplugging it before turning the computer off. I recommend finding some instructions online before using but the product was exactly as advertised and simple to connect.

I needed a way to connect a 2nd hard drive to a laptop that had operating system problems. This kit did the trick perfectly. I was able to format and load Windows on to a new hard drive and then connect my old hard drive to the USB port to copy my important files to the new one. Great product.

Had an elderly IDE drive (10GB). Plugged the data/usb adapter into the drive, plugged the power cable into the drive, plugged the brick into the wall (let the drive spin up), plugged the USB cable into my PC and 20 seconds later viola! There was the drive in XP.



Idiot proof.



Take your time. It's easy to bend IDE connector pins. Old lab trick: use the opening of a Pentel mechanical pencil to straighten them out if you got cocky.



Cheers.



Jim

I got this for transferring data from an older laptop ATA hard disk to my new laptop. It worked great. The power supply didn't have anywhere to attach for the small laptop drive but it worked well anyway on USB power only. I had already bought an enclosure previously, that didn't work, and this was the replacement. The data transfer is slow but that's not a problem for a use like mine. (dumping the old hard drives info onto my new computer)

No instructions were included with my order, but thanks to the helpful reviews for the cable package and the WD SATA hard drive I was able to successfully use these products to bring my son's PS3 back to life. The promised manual would have cut down on the installation time. I researched every part to make sure I was using it correctly. The enlarged photos of each on the Amazon product page helped a lot.

At first the power connector wouldn't work...frustrated I finally shoved and pushed really hard cramming it together and it finally connected. I could hear the drive making noise as it spun. However, Windows XP Professional 64 wouldn't recognize the drive..(My PC is new even though I'm using XP so not sure what the problem is)..I messed with it for an hour or so and then tried my daughter's pc which has Vista Basic and it worked perfectly!

Bought this to access old PATA drives that would no longer fit in my new PC. The drives booted up immediately (several different ones) and was able to copy all the essentials off just like downtown. Why pay more for crap you dont need? Its not built to last forever - but Jeez ! look at the price ! works just great for what I needed and now it goes into the drawer for the next time. - Sata - Ide Adapter - Usb - Pata'


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Plasma Wall Mount - tv wall mount, tv mount


Mounted my Samsung 50" plasma using this mount. My display is about 70 pounds.



Installation was fairly simple. The back plate is 30 inches wide, so you will only be able to get 2 studs max. Important points:



1. It is very important to make sure the lag bolts drill into the studs.

2. The included hardware is iffy, so go spend the $5 at your local hardware store and get some better bolts.

3. The level on the back plate is not 100% accurate, so make sure to use your own.



The important thing to to measure where you want your holes and then measure them again and then make sure everything is level.



The construction of the mount and rails felt very sturdy.



For those that have never mounted a tv before there are 2 parts. A back plate that bolts on to your wall and then 2 rails that bolt onto the back of your display. You then place your display on the backplate. The rails have hooks to secure it onto the plate and then screws at the bottom to make sure it doesn't come off.



Distance between the back of the display and the wall is about 2.25 inches. This is fairly tight and makes it difficult to hook up cables, so make sure your cables are hooked up before mounting the display. VideoSecu Tilt TV Wall Mount for Most 32"-60" LCD LED Plasma, Sturdy Steel Wall Plate Comes with 6" 3-Axis Magnetic Bubble Level Free 7 ft HDMI Cable M43

This is the second mount I bought the first one wasn't the right type but I am glad it wasn't for this mount is perfect for my needs.



I placed the 37" TV on a flat surface on top of a blanket to prevent scratching. I screwed the side brackets on. (I placed mine on upside down but I figured it out before and real work was done.) Time to mount the wall plate. I went and sat down in a chair opposite from where the TV was going to be and "eyeballed it" a bit higher. I then marked it with a pencil. I am not going to tell you the exact measurement because everyone is different so just make it at the height that you want it and remember the higher it is the more you have to look up to watch it unless you stand to watch TV. Okay now your gonna need a level you can try to fake it but I wouldn't since you are screwing holes in you wall. Draw a line with the level and line up the wall plate and screw it in. Some people say you should use better bolts then the ones that came with the mount well I used the ones that came with it and they worked fine.



You have the TV on the floor with the side brackets attached and you have the wall plate level and screwed to the wall. I wanted a more clean look so I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the wall with a hole bit on my drill so I could pass the cables through it. I would suggest you go ahead and do this even if you are not ready to attach all the cables.



Time to place the TV on the wall plate. Attaching the cables to the back of the TV is probably a good idea but not a necessity but it makes life easier. Pick the TV up and place the little hooks on the brackets to the wall mount and let go! Don't worry it will hold. Tighten the little clamps and make sure the safety screw is there.



Your done with the mounting now you just have to adjust. The mount allows you to tilt the TV but you have to unscrew the little knobs on side and if the TV isn't exactly right where you want it you can slide it from side to side a few inches.



There is enough room to reach your hand behind the TV to plug in cables but its tight and you have to look at a diagram of the connections on the back but it can be done.



For good measure and I wouldn't recommend doing this I held onto the top of the TV and hung from it for a second just to see how well it held. The TV didn't fall so I guess it did well.



Buy this TV mount you will enjoy it.

This TV mount was great. I used it to put up a 32" LG LCD TV in my bedroom. A 32" TV is the minimum since the wall bracket is visable around the sides. The bars covered up some of the connections on the back of the TV, but that is a problem with the TV, not the mount. I did buy some stronger stud bolts from a local hardware store since I wanted to be sure the TV would not fall. However, all hardware does come with the mount, including some very needed extenders since the TV pre-drilled holds were not very deep. The 15 degree tilt function works great. Be sure to have a stud finder to line up to attach the bracket correctly. I plan to buy two more for bigger TVs.

This high quality, strong and secure mount is comparable to those costing three times the price. It is strong and secure, and I had no trouble getting it to attach to my Magnavox 37" LCD TV. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. Plenty of included bolts to match the inserts on a variety of televisions, and it even has the option to attach your padlock to the mount to secure the TV once assembled. Definitely recommended! - Plasma Wall Mount - Tv Mount - Lcd Wall Mount - Tv Wall Mount'


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Monitor Extension Cables - computer cables, video games


I needed to split the output of one computer so I could feed a monitor and a projector. The projector has a run of 25 feet so just splitting the cable with a Y splitter wouldn't work. It would degrade the signal too much.



This powered splitter works great. It's a very solid little unit and very nicely built. The image on the monitor and the projector look great. I highly recommend this for driving two displays from one VGA card.



Note: This is the 2 port splitter. The 4 port one is shown in the picture. Cables To Go 29550 2-Port UXGA Monitor Splitter/Extender (Male Input)

We needed to split a trainer's display between a monitor and a projector, which would need a long run to reach the unit, and upon reading other reviews, comments, and specs, I decided upon this unit. It arrived, solid and stout, and it has worked beautifully. The unit has a heft to it, which helps keep it in place despite the heavy cables that attach to it, and the signal looks beautiful. Be sure to order the right cables.

I bought this for a bar owner for a Karaoke Moniter set up. However, we needed to split the line 3 ways to 2 LCDs and one projector. In the past I used a Cables to Go y splitter that worked well but the image would lost light. Well this spitter split the image at virtually no image loss whatsoever. At least my eye couldn't tell. one LCD was 38 feet away. I'm thinking about buying one for my self!

I called Cables-To-Go and confirmed that this is the exact same unit as the Cables To Go 29503 TruLink 2-Port UXGA Monitor Splitter/Extender (Female Input) Black, except that this 29550 unit has one male connector so you cannot just use standard monitor cables. You would need an gender changing adapter or a special cable to use this one.



Buy the 29503 instead (Cables To Go 29503 TruLink 2-Port UXGA Monitor Splitter/Extender (Female Input) Black), which has all female connectors, so you can use standard cables. I own the 29503, which performs wonderfully, and is truly plug and play.



See my review for the 29503. http://www.amazon.com/review/RNQ5E3GK9T3BM/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

I wanted to split the VGA signal from our laptop to our plasma TV and a small LCD computer monitor in another room. Like others, I wasted a little money trying a standard VGA splitter 'Y' cable first. This might work if you wanted to split a VGA signal between two small monitors. In our case the monitor got perfect signal but the TV picture was ghosted and horrible. I knew we needed a powered VGA splitter, so I was glad I had bookmarked the Cables To Go 29550.



This was a snap to set up and worked immediately to feed both our TV and monitor. The only small snafu I encountered was that I couldn't get our 42" TV and 17" computer monitor to play nicely together in resolution requirements. To get the best picture on our tv, the laptop's display settings for the "external monitor" need to be 1280 x 768. I guess because the laptop sees the splitter as a single device, if the TV and monitor don't share native resolutions then one or the other will suffer. I futzed around with the laptop's display settings trying to find a happy medium, before I settled on feeding the TV the proper resolution since we watch that more. The monitor's picture is beautiful, just slightly elongated.



Anyway, I THINK that's what's going on...If anyone has another suggestion I'd love to hear it.



Our setup:



XP laptop --> Cables to Go 29550 powered VGA splitter -->



1) HD15 SVGA Monitor Extension Cable, Male to Female with Ferrite Bead 1 ft --> Component video (YPbPr) / VGA To HDMI Converter With Auto Up-scale --> 42" plasma TV



2) RiteAV - SVGA Monitor Cable with 3.5mm Audio - 10 ft. --> RiteAV - VGA Coupler / Gender Changer Female-Female --> 17" lcd computer monitor



Sure, it's a lot of work to figure it out and cable it up, and we can't watch all our favorite shows immediately. But we enjoy being pioneers in DIY internet tv, especially since it's saving us $70/month in satellite fees!

Works as advertised. We have a whole bunch at our school, and we leave them turned On and forget about them. Haven't had one fail in the last three-plus years. Again as stated in an earlier review - the Input connection is a Male VGA, so use a VGA cable that has Male and Female connectors (like an "extension" cable). Or get a Female/Female gender-changer adapter (like a B000BSLSJI). - Computer Cables - Video Games - Monitor Extension Cables - Dual Monitor Cable'


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Canon Laser Printer - canon laser printer, multifunction printer


This device is basically identical to the MF4370dn which is heavily (and positively) reviewed. As near as I can tell there are three differences between the two units:



1) The D480 is beige, the MF4370 black

2) The D480 has am improved document feeder

3) The D480 has more complete duplexing than the MF4370.



I was actually alerted to #3 by an Amazon review. You can put a stack of two-sided documents into the feeder and produce a set of two-sided duplicates. According to the Amazon reviewer the MF4370 will take two-sided docs in the feeder but can only produce single-sided docs in response.



I haven't tried this with a thick stack of documents but onesie/twosie stuff seems to work great, at least with plain copy paper. I tried duplex-copying a mortgage statement printed on thick paper and the feeder choked on it.



Copying is fast, quiet and sharp. I'm delighted by it, actually. Duplexing is really simple. Manually scanning two different sheets onto one two-sided document or just copying a two-sided document are both very easy. The biggest limitation is the size of the platen. I didn't think I'd even notice this but if you're used to throwing down a book or something of a full-size copy machine you'll feel a bit cramped. If you want to scan oversized stuff you're of out of luck, but that's true of every machine in this price range.



The D480 seems to be a perfectly capable printer and supports full duplexing right from software. I do most of my printing to an HP 3600dn and don't see that changing except for printing music, where duplexing will be really nice to have. Network printing was really easy to set up.



Scanning is where this device falls a bit flat, and that's due almost entirely to the software, not the hardware. Even thought it has a Vista logo on the box it still relies on TWAIN drivers so it doesn't integrate with "Scanners and Cameras" under Vista. The software they ship to scan with is hokey but seems to work. I guess I can hope that Canon will ship updated drivers but I won't hold my breath. I am a little peeved at MSFT for letting Canon put a Vista logo on the box.



Network scanning is a joke on this device (same as with MF4370). The process for doing this is just stupid, and the file transfer is ungodly slow. I was hoping to just pop some docs into the ADF and press a button and have them show up but you can't really do it in the backgrond and the file transfer times are godawful slow. This is partly due to the size of the data but not completely - it's REALLY REALLY SLOW. To give you an idea it took something like a minute or two to transfer an 88KB image. That's KILOBYTES. I think the scanner must send a raw dump over the network which is processed on the host machine. In any case, it's tricky to set up and basically unusable. Note to Canon: "Scan to USB Flash Drive" would be a far better feature.



On the bright side there is support for scanning several pages from the ADF into a single (or multiple) PDFs. There is some sort of OCR software but I haven't tried to use it yet. We hope to scan bills and whatnot and toss the originals - I guess I'll see how well that works out.



I haven't tried the faxing capability. Having a halfway decent ADF will be a godsend for sending contracts or NDAs around, but I'll probably rely more on scanning to PDF than actually faxing. I never receive faxes - I use online services like eFax.



Finally I have to ding the awful documentation. It's really quite bad - I had to call tech support to try to figure out network scanning and found out that even though I didn't want to use USB scanning I still had to do a USB install. Oops. If you want to do anything non-trivial you're going to be experimenting and cursing a bit. Canon's tech support was actually quite good, but better docs would have saved them the cost of the call.



So, as the title says, the hardware is quite good for $250 but the software side is a little lacking. Even though I poo-poo the device a lot I am pretty pleased with it. Based on what I've seen so far I can recommend it for SOHO use if network scanning or tight Vista integration is not going to be a high-priority item for you. I wouldn't recommend using it as a primary departmental printer because the input tray is dinky, but I don't think you'll find a better device under $500. Canon imageCLASS D480 Laser All-in-One Printer (2711B054AA)

My scanner & laser printer wouldn't work with my new Windows Vista 64-bit operating system. I loved my laser printer because the toner seemed to last a very long time compared to my photo printer. So I looked for a laser multifunction. Canon is rated best in most printer reviews. But I also wanted one that was networkable so that I could print from my laptop without having to turn on my desktop computer.



Well, I've had the D480 over 2 months and I really like it. It's like having an office copier, laser printer and scanner next to my desk. (I have not used the fax function so can't report on it.) For all it does, it does not have a large footprint and space is limited for me. It comes alive and copies or prints very quickly. Everything I have printed and scanned has been very clean and professional document quality. The duplex copy, print & scan is a real plus, and I have a bunch of files that I want to scan into electronic format. Paper handling has been perfect. I am very happy with its perforance.



Only problems I had was with documentation. 1)Network Configuration was unclear and incomplete. After repeated efforts, I called Canon support. They were excellent, spoke English, were not in a rush to get me off the line, and knew exactly how to walk be through the network installation. That support is worth a lot these days. By the way, the rest of the documentation was good. 2) Scanning Software is minimalist when scanning on a network configuration and the documentation was unclear. It works but is bare bones. (The unit can be hooked up directly to a PC with a USB cable and the software for that kind of configuration seemed more robust and user friendly.) Maybe I'll purchase a separate software package for scanning.



Bottom Line: I am very happy with this purchase in spite of the documentation and software, especially since I got it for $285 through a Amazon reseller versus the $400 list. - Multifunction Printer - Copier - All-in-one - Canon Laser Printer'


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Security System - home security, home securtiy


Took a risk with this alarm system w/o knowing much of the seller and the few technical specs provided. Well after receiving and testing a while it has met my expectations...especially for the price.

Some things to note which the seller forgot to mention. It comes w/ 2 horns which is essential for any alarm system (one outdoor for your neighbors to hear and one indoor for yourself). The installation instructions are sparse and seem hand made in a personal computer but it is clear enough so I haven't needed to contact them.

Of all the 30 plus components I received, 1 of the 5 motion detectors wasn't working. I didn't contact the seller to replace it since 4 is more than enough.

Programming the unit took less than an hour. Because all the units are wireless, you will need to replace batteries on everything which will be a real pain. The instructions don't say how long they last. But its better than running wires all over the house.

All in all, its everything I expected to provide a good deterrent from your opportunistic thieves. One of the reviewers here gave it only 1 star since it isn't foolproof. Well what do you expect from a $320 system? Yes, if a thief breaks a window and the alarm sounds, he can start searching the house for the keypad and horns and disable them, but I'm guessing they'd just split instead of taking the chance of getting caught (unless you live in the boondocks where neighbors will not here the alarm). You also get a phone call from the system that the alarms went off, so you can take appropriate action. Yes a pro will be able to disable it but i bet he can disable most of the other alarm systems out there as well... AAS 600 Wireless Home Security Alarm System Kit DIY (R)

I purchased the AAS-500 system, which appears to be the same as the 600, but with fewer sensors. The installation instructions were perfectly clear. All the door sensors came with the batteries already installed, which was nice. The motion detectors came with the (9v) batteries, and were easily installed. I got this system to replace a 1996 system from Radio Shack which had failed. A major difference with this system (in addition to the much better quality) is that the outside siren can be mounted without worrying about physically connecting it to the console.



Prior to installing sensors I read the entire instruction manual then made a list (map) of what was going to be installed, and where, and numbered each sensor per the instructions. I wrote the numbers on each sensor. I then activated each one and tested them, one by one to make sure everything worked properly. Then, I mounted each sensor per the map I had made. One of the door sensors failed to work. This is when I discovered that the magnet must be placed on the right side of the sensor containing the antenna. I removed the sensor and replaced the backing with one of the extra sensors and mounted it with the antenna pointing down. I should have tested this aspect before actually mounting it and ruining the sticky tape.



The motion detectors have a one page instruction sheet, which really does not need to be read. If you do read it, you will find it pretty choppy; very poor English.



In summary, this is an excellent product, very good quality, good instructions and a major step forward in terms of technology over the system I was previously using.

I purchased the AAS Wireless 600 as a cost effective method of protecting my property without the cost of a monthly charge and to get the components I really wanted. I got enough components to have some spares, should they be necessary in the future. The system arrived in a timely manner and I made a general map of where I wanted the components installed. I laid the system out on the kitchen table and labeled them so that I knew exactly where they were to go. The programming of the controller was extremely easy and the installation was straightforward. The system performs better than I expected and I am more than satisfied with my purchase. I really like the fact that the system will call my cell from the land line in the house and tell me that something has set the system off. The American Alarm System rewards customers for a 4 star or 5 star rating, but I am truly satisfied with system and recommend it to my friends and family. I think it is every bit as good as the expensive systems, without the monthly charge and contracts..

New Updates Added 4/14/11 at bottom.



Main reasons for getting a system:



1. New renters next door are apparently into meth. Google "meth crime"

2. U.S. dollar collapse in the next 36 months (possibly by end of June). Google "Most Predictable Financial Calamity in History"



My thoughts about this system:



I have mixed feelings. It seems a good value overall, but there are some significant drawbacks to it.



The Cons:



1. Cordless phone interference. I now have a buzzing on all the phones in the house. The phones auto-select the channel they operate on, so I can't change that manually. Also, I have two sets of cordless phones and it happens on both sets so it's obviously not because they are on the same frequency. The support person suggested removing the DSL filters on the lines, which I was OK with as we no longer use DSL... but I tried it and no luck. She said if that didn't work that there was no way to fix the problem (outside of getting all corded phones, I suppose). This, I think, is something everyone should know ahead of time, as the buzzing is pretty bad. And, when I put someone on speaker phone as I often do for work, it's REALLY bad. I can't use my speaker phone anymore and I used to use it all the time. Cell phones are fine, though. No interference there or with my wireless Internet.



2. The double-sided tape on the window/door sensors is the foam type. You know, that kind that once you stick it to your beautiful new windows, walls or door trim, it will never come off again without leaving clumps of foam behind. So, thinking ahead... (SO GLAD I DID THIS!) I decided to buy "UGLU" from Wal-Mart and use that instead. So, installation took much longer as I removed every one of the foam tapes from both sides of the 25 door/window sensors, and used UGLU instead. The UGLU is great, as you can remove the sensors without damaging anything - though paint can sometimes come off a bit if you don't remove it as per the instructions and just try pulling it straight off; and you can reposition and re-stick the sensors if you'd like. The ability to reposition them is great for the motion detectors while you work out the best positioning for them. Use the bigger pieces of UGLU for the heavier motion sensors, not the tiny ones, as they will come loose and the sensors will drop to the floor and likely damage the antennas. Incidentally, I was told that unless you live in a huge house, you don't need to extend the antennas, which I like. If you don't want to risk them coming loose, use screws.



3. There is an on/off switch right on the control panel. This seems positively STUPID to me. Essentially, this could defeat the purpose of the entire system. If the alarm is sounding, or if it's beeping when entering the house indicating you have to enter the code to avoid the alarm going off... well... all I had to do was turn off the switch and the alarm was completely shut down. This is probably the dumbest thing I've ever seen unless I'm missing something. Definitely a question I'll be asking support next time they get back to me.



4. The instructions are unclear. I could rewrite them much better after the support person answered my questions. My questions were pretty basic and they probably should have been spelled out in the instructions in the first place in order to cut back on the number of calls their support line gets. With fewer calls, maybe they could get back to the remaining customers faster. I'll probably update this review later on with additional tips on installing so you can continue moving forward with installation while you wait for support to call you back.



5. The recording microphone for the auto-dialer is very poor. I practically had to shout into the microphone to get a half-way decent recording, else you couldn't hear it when it called the phone.



6. Slow technical support. I had to leave 3 messages until I finally got service to call me back and help me install it. I called again a couple days ago due to either a malfunctioning wireless smoke alarm or a control panel issue. I'm not sure which yet. I'm sure they'll get back to me eventually, but this isn't service where they'll get back to you in 24 hours. But, if they revised their installation manual with better instructions, they probably could handle all requests in 24 hours.



7. Wireless smoke detector problem. Upon testing the smoke detector right after installing it, the system kept triggering over and over again for that sensor -- even long after I removed the battery -- and it kept calling the phone numbers I set up for it to call. There's no apparent way to deactivate that one sensor or to reset the system so that it can stop thinking the smoke detector is being triggered -- at least not without deactivating all the sensors (that's what the manual says). I'm not sure if that would mean I'd have to reprogram them all (seems possible as I don't see anything in the instructions about "reactivating" them), but it would certainly mean the system wouldn't work if the sensors were all deactivated. So, I can't even set the alarm until someone gets back to me. Fortunately, I rarely go anywhere. I left a message with support three days ago regarding this issue. Still waiting. Glad I don't have to head out of town. But, to the company's credit, the woman I spoke with the one time was very knowledgeable and answered my questions very well. She said she was doing support for the system for eight years. She's a professional.



Pros:



1. Very loud indoor alarm (I haven't tested the outdoor one yet). This siren will scare the dickens out of anyone breaking in. It's very hard on the ears, and on any animals' ears, so you will want to put pets in a separate room with the door shut when testing, else you could probably damage their hearing some.



2. System dials up to 6 phone numbers, so you can have it call yours and your spouse's cell or work phones, along with a neighbor or two, and an alarm monitoring service if you wish.



3. Overall good value for the money. Comes with a bunch of sensors (25 door/window, 5 motion detectors, 1 glass break sensor, 1 smoke detector) so you can cover a mid-sized home quite well with the basics. We got a quote from ADT and the equivalent system would have cost around $2-3k for all this stuff -- plus they would have locked us into a 3 year contract for expensive monitoring service. You can get a cheaper service (as low as $8.95/mo) without any contracts that will work with this system. Also, I found ADT window stickers and an ADT lawn sign on eBay that you could get as a deterrent if you'd like. As the ADT guy explained, a survey of criminals was done and nine out of ten would not even bother burglarizing a home if they saw it had an alarm system. The odds of a break-in drop to an average of around 1 in 10,000 when adding just the stickers.



4. Installation and programming was actually quite simple once the instructions were clarified for me by support. Again, the most time-consuming part was putting UGLU adhesive on all the sensors, as I didn't want white sticky foam on everything if I needed to move or remove the system. UGLU was only $10 for the box and I used about a third of it. You can Google UGLU to order it. Amazon might carry it, too.



5. Comes with four keychain remotes. These are cool. If you hear someone in the house at night that shouldn't be there, just click the "panic" button on the keychain to sound the alarm and have the system start dialing out. Any intruder will undoubtedly freak out with the blaring siren. Also, each remote has a home and an away button you can activate, just as you can from the main panel, so you can set it from bed at night, putting it into "home" mode with the click of a button, or click the "away" button if you're heading out the door. Then, just click the disarm button when you are ready to turn it off.



6. Remote monitoring function. I haven't tested this yet. It could be great, or it might be junk if it uses the same microphone I used to record the outbound phone message. If that's the case, I don't have high hopes of actually hearing anyone in the house through my phone if the system calls me.



Conclusion:



I'm not 100% sure if I'm keeping it yet so I can't recommend it for everyone. It'll probably work OK for some, but some won't like it. The on/off switch on the side is - and forgive me if I'm repeating myself here - STUPID. It makes no sense to me whatsoever. I'm thinking of Crazy-gluing it permanently in the on position so it can't be turned off by an intruder. If I need to shut it down in a hurry then - and the pass-code doesn't work for some reason - I'll just use a hammer :) Currently I put duct tape over the on/off to hide it a bit - as if that'll help. Even if it didn't have the on/off switch, it'd probably be easy enough to just UNPLUG the siren from the control panel to silence it, and take out the phone cord so it doesn't call anyone. But, maybe a criminal won't be thinking so logically.



Maybe I'll keep it, as something is better than nothing. Also, it keeps me on track with my security plan (next comes the moat with crocodiles and motion-sensing paintball sniper rifles on the roof), and it provides at least a little peace of mind if we head out of town. The system will, very conveniently, call us if anything goes awry, and then we can call our really awesome neighbors (not the renters) and have them check things out. Actually, the system will call them for us. As we have pets, I appreciate the wireless smoke detector, too, knowing if ever there's a fire, we might get a call that will help save them.



Installation Tips:



1. Make a diagram of your rooms and where you'll put the sensors and number what sensors are in what room.

2. Label each sensor by number after programming it -- writing each zone number on the plastic pouch they come in so you know what's what when installing.

3. If you install all the sensors on the doors and windows, not realizing you actually needed to test them once everything was programmed, no worries - you can take the control panel (with battery backup) around the house with you as you test each one. Just take it off the wall and arm it when you reach the next sensor, then open the window or door or trip the motion detector. If the sensor is working properly, it will show the sensor number on the panel and the red "alarm" light will be lit until you disarm.

4. Again, use UGLU clear adhesive to stick the sensors if you ever think you might want to remove them without leaving ugly foam behind on the windows, doors or walls. This company should probably consider including a half-box of this stuff in every alarm kit. It would cost them an extra $5 per kit and I'm sure folks wouldn't mind paying that in order to not damage their home.

5. Be patient with support. They'll get back to you eventually. If all else fails, mention on their VM that you want to leave a positive review for them on Amazon, but can't do so until you speak with them.



I'm happy to amend this review if support contacts me and tells me how I can resolve some of these issues.



I'll add additional installation tips when I have more time. Those will be the answers I got from the support rep. You will probably have the same questions when you install it.



------------



UPDATES 4/14/11



Update on actually reaching tech support:



I finally spoke with their tech support after posting my initial review. After leaving 2 messages, they never got back to me. I had to call in again and reach someone live. They told me if I ever don't reach someone, that I was to just keep calling back instead of simply leaving messages, that this would get me support faster. So, this is what I'd recommend. Call until you reach someone live.



Update on smoke detector that would not stop tripping the alarm system:



I was informed that I accidentally tripped a motion sensor while in the middle of setting up the smoke detector. This is why the smoke detector got triggered once and kept triggering, to the point where I could not even use the system. So, this was my error because I had the motion detectors on the walls already activated when I had set up the smoke detector much later. Still, the instructions were not very clear in warning against this or in the consequences of tripping a motion detector while in the middle of setting up other sensors. As I set up the smoke detector after the fact, and I have motion detectors in the kitchen where I was doing this, I can see how this happened.



The CONSEQUENCES of this?



I was told I had to REDO the sensors in the ENTIRE HOUSE. I now have to reassign every single sensor on every door and window and every motion detector! What a pain in the rear! I haven't even done this yet, as it was so time-consuming the first time that I'm resisting taking the time to do it again; but I'll get to it eventually. For now, I have no working alarm system. Perhaps getting a doberman would have been easier. So, don't make this mistake!



If you're assigning/activating ANY sensors, make sure that you have your motion detectors OFF THE WALLS and FACE DOWN on a table where they can't get activated!!!! And set up all sensors at once. Don't wait until later to activate any of them.



But, if you accidentally do what I did, you can go around the house with the battery operated control panel and reassign all the door/window sensors without removing them. You will still, however, need to remove the motion detectors (putting them face down on a table).



IMPORTANT UPDATE ON UGLU:



While initially thought to be a brilliant idea (and it still is, partially), the UGLU is not strong enough to hold the motion sensors. Eventually, they fall off the walls and this can damage the antennae and perhaps even the inner electronics; though, so far, the electronics seem quite durable. The antennae did not do so well and several got bent, and one broke. So DON'T USE UGLU for putting up the motion detectors! Use screws only!



However, for the door/window sensors, which are much lighter, the UGLU is working PERFECTLY and will keep you from destroying your windows/doors when you remove them. You won't leave behind that foam residue, or any residue for that matter.



UPDATE ON SWITCH ON MAIN CONTROL PANEL



I was told it is best to not have the 30 second delay, but instead to have the system set to "instant" and to activate/deactivate the system using the remote control instead of the keypad on the control panel.



While not my first option, this makes sense, as this will make sure alarm goes off immediately upon entry and the fact that the on/off switch is on the control box is less consequential.



Regarding the on/off switch being on the box, the tech lady actually suggested what I had suggested to everyone in my initial review. That is, to put Crazy Glue on it, lol. Glue it in the ON position so a burglar can't come in and turn it off. Sure they can still smash the unit, but maybe it's a bit more secure. They can also rip the phone line out, but maybe won't have time before a call is sent out.



So, when using the remote control to activate/deactivate, the system's outdoor siren will supposedly make a chirp or something indicating it is activated/deactivated. This would indicate to any problem neighbors (on meth) exactly when you're leaving the house without activating it. They can listen for the activation. If they don't hear it, they can safely assume it's OK to break into your house when you're gone.



Not a perfect system by any means, but for the price, maybe not entirely bad. Depends on the level of protection you want. If you can afford it, I'd say get another system. If not, I guess something's better than nothing. Just be sure to read through my tips above before setting it up, as you may have to redo the entire thing.



For now, I'm lowering my rating from a 3 down to a 2 because of customer support not returning my calls, the aggravation this has been in setting it up, the poorly written and inadequate instructions, and the inherent weaknesses in the system itself.



A 1 rating would have meant to me that it's worthless, but it's really not. Once set up right, it should provide some modicum of protection, which is better than nothing, and could provide some peace of mind when you're not at home.



MY NEXT UPDATE



I'll post a new update again after I get it all set up and will let you know how it's working. Hopefully in a month or two I'll get that set up. With my Mom in ICU, this isn't exactly a priority for me at the moment.



Hope all this is clear. Feel free to post any questions or comments in the comments section. I will get an e-mail alert and will respond to you. - Home Security - Home Security Systems - Home Securtiy - Security System'


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Battery Charger


Since most cordless tools come with their own single port chargers, buying another charger isn't really necessary. I have accumulated 6 single port chargers from my DeWalt tools, so for me getting a dual port was less about charging capacity and more about using less electical outlets. I don't like daisy-chaining surge protectors so having one charger in my workshop that can keep up with my battery use was worth the price. Having this charger and the batteries I already have also means I can buy tools that don't come with batteries and probably save a few dollars in the long run.



Also, at the time of my purchase, the dual port charger with 1 battery combo pack was a few dollars cheaper than getting the charger alone, and Amazon was cheaper than Home Depot or Lowe's. DEWALT DC9320BP 7.2-to-18-Volt NiCd/NiMH/Li-Ion 1 Hour Dual Port Charger, XRP 18 Volt Battery Combo Pack

This charger is probably twice as fast as the standard Dewalt NiCd charger and it can charge the LiIon batteries as well so if you decide to change to the Lithium batteries you won't need to buy another charger. It comes with a NiCd battery though. Lithium would have been nice.

Great value my old charger went out. A replacement was 70 dollars at a big box store and that was only a one up charger with this you get the dual charger and an extra battery. Heck the battery alone is the price you will pay. Shipping was fast also.

I'v e had this for a month, and charged the batteries a few times. Everything seems to be as it should. My only grip e would be that it feels light, making me question it's durability. But So far, so good!

Needed a new charger, as I brought my 220v device from The Netherlands to the 110v USA, as I love the tools.

Having the option to charge two batteries at the time, and now having an additional spare is great! Specially for the price of about 100 dollars it was offered.

Really like this charger and would have given it 5 stars except for the fact that it arcs when plugging into the wall outlet. Arc is greater with batteries already installed. Called DeWalt today and was told this arcing is normal, in fact the support person was able to create the arcing at his desk while I was on the phone. There is no switch on the charger. Doesn't give one a warm and fuzzy feeling. Have tried on several outlets, two prong, three prong, with and without surge protection, results always the same. There are small arc scars on the ends of prongs of the charger cord.'


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Battery Charger Battery Charger Battery Charger

18v Battery - 18v, 18v battery


Part to answer the earlier reviews , when I researched this battery when DeWalt announced it, the FAQ at that time stated " these batteries have the same amp hour rating as our Ni-Cad XRP packs, they will NOT give you longer run time in the tool vs. a new XRP ni-cad battery. The advantages they offer are increased lifespan (2000 charge cycles for lithium ion vs. ~800 for ni-cad or less if you abuse them, lighter weight, and longer "hold" time - if you charge this battery and not use it for a month it will still be charged, ni-cad will be near dead from internal losses which is common to all ni-cad batteries.



When I first got these batteries I was a little dismayed at the mismatch at the old tools bases, as I used them more over the last year I started to appreciate the different shape as a quick way to identify the "good batteries", one year and hundreds of charges later I love these batteries, in the drill you won't notice a huge difference, but in the higher draw tools like the circular saw and angle grinder the Lithium batteries give you full performance from the full charge of the battery, with ni-cad you get a few good cuts with the saw and then you have to slow down because the saw is slowing down, with the lithium you get full rpms throughout the charge of the battery until at the very end the battery protection kicks in and shuts the tool down. This is to prevent the user from discharging the battery to the point that it damages the battery (idiot proofing), which would seriously reduce the life span. DEWALT DC9180 18 -Volt Lithium-Ion Battery Pack

I'm a sheet metal worker, (tin knocker)if you will and I've got no regrets about this batteries. Yeah it doesn't match the shape at the bottom of the old batteries but it is lighter an actually last me longer than my old ones . Now if how it looks is what worries you and not how it works,then maybe this isn't for you. Lets face it , is a tool not fashion... I personally bought the impact driver cause my job requires a lot of screwing of sheet metal screws on 24 to 18 gauge steel and these batteries last me about four days without the need for another charge...compare that to maybe two full days with the regular ones, that's a long time if you count that we hold almost everything with screws... so we screw all day basically and, yeah, the don't warn you when they are about to "die" but that is a good thing cause you always work with the full power of the tool or no power at all. I know I killed an old battery just trying to get the last little juice off of it and when I tried to charge it again, it wouldn't. So this feature actually doesn't let me burn it to death. It works with all my 18v tools; my recip. saw, my spot light, my fluorescent light, my hammer drill driver, my jigsaw, and my double cut shears... hope this helps in your decision...

I love this battery and the fact that DeWalt made it compatible with nearly all of their other 18v tools. That alone should earn it a place in the power-tool hall of fame, if there is such a place.



The price gave me sticker shock, but I also know a bit about what goes in a lithium battery - it's not cheap, not to mention that it needs active electronics for care & feeding of the cells if I'm not mistaken.



Speaking of which:



BATTERY-SAVING TIP: Keep your Forward/Reverse switch in the middle OFF position to prevent accidentally draining the battery if the trigger presses something in your toolbox.



If you already have DeWalt 18v tools (and you got out of the stock market before it tanked), this addition is a no-brainer. Yes, the aesthetics of the old/new socket-battery-mating aren't perfect, but then, the lithium batteries are totally different batteries. What's important to me is that it works - and in that, it excels (so far... I haven't had 'em long enough for any of 'em to fail)

I've posted a few reveiws about batteries from Dewalt and other manufacturers, so after having a couple of these new 'nano' batteries for a while now, I think I can post an honest review.



They are very good batteries, but you have to know what you expect out of them.



Runtime between charges is about the same as the XRP dewalt nicad battery. When we use this battery on the same job as an xrp nicad, they hold a charge for 'about' the same time.



The strength of this battery is the longevity of it. An average xrp nicad dewalt battery will last us almost a year before we have to buy a new one (used almost every day). Our crew bought a set of Makita Lithium batteries and tools, and they only lasted us 4-6 months before needing to get replaced. However, these new dewalt batteries are almost 1 and a half years old and still running strong.



So from our experience, you won't get any more 'run time' before needing to charge this battery than you do out of the old fashioned XRP batteries, but you will more than make up the extra money on these batteris in overall 'long term' battery life over the XRP nicads, and they last a LOT longer before needing to be replaced compare the the Makita lxt batteries.

I almost never review products, but this battery from DeWALT inspired me. I have used their products for years and loved the longevity and reliability... however their batteries have never impressed me.

The battery runs at full power and lasts until the last drop.

You can swap it between almost any of their 18v tools.

With the old NiCad batteries if you left it sitting for a few days between uses you would have to recharge the batter before use. This is not true with their lithium battery you can leave it sitting for weeks and it will still be as fully charged as it was when you left it.

I have been using these with my other DeWALT tools for months now only had to recharge the battery 3 times

I am able to use my impact hammer 6hrs without stopping.



I would defiantly recommend this battery to anyone who uses a DeWALT product. - Lithium-ion - 18v Battery - 18v - Battery'


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