Panasonic 50 Inch Plasma

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I ordered this from Amazon for $694 and I got $10 off with a coupon I had plus the shipping was free and they brought it right up into my apartment so all I had to do was install it. The install is very simple just screw it into the stand, plug in all the wires and then there is an automated setup process so you just pick your options along the way.



The stand feels very secure, it's a big black platform about 2'x1.5' with steal rods that go up inside the TV and screw in, there are 3 screws in each rod that connect it to the platform and 2 in each that connect it to the TV. I was able to do all that by myself but just barely and I'm a pretty big guy so considering the size and weight of the TV it should be at least a 2 man job.



If you get the version with the built in Ethernet adapter you can connect to your Netflix, Pandora, Napster and a number of other sites to watch or listen to whatever you want.



Then of course the inputs, 2 HDMI, an SD Card reader, 1xRCA and 1xRCAHD, of course read the specs carefully because there are different versions of this same TV (i.e. one version with an Ethernet adapter and 1 without and there might be one that is also 3D ready but it might be more expensive then the one I'm reviewing)



The color and picture are beautiful, I play a lot of video games so picture quality was important to me, if you're a gamer this TV is for you. I play halo on Xbox 360 and one of my biggest issues was ghosting (when you look around too quickly and everything blurs) with this TV that issue is almost completely taken care of, there is still some blur but it's extremely mild.



As for the picture quality being 720p...well there a lot of people who will say a lot of stuff when it comes to the differences between 720p, 1080p, 720i and 1080i and I can only speak from experience but I do have a 23" computer monitor that is 1080p and I tried to play the same things on there that I did on the TV (and I have a very good computer with a high end graphics card) and yes I know it isn't a perfect test but it's the best I could do and from what I could tell there was very little difference. So in my opinion for the size, quality and price it's a very good deal.



The only real problem with it that I've noticed so far is that if you get too close things look...grainy almost like you can see black spots everywhere on it however if you are even 1ft away you can't see them at all and considering it's 50" I hope you're sitting at least 1ft away lol. Panasonic VIERA TC-P50X3 50-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV

This is my 2nd Panasonic plasma display and the quality of the picture is absolutely great. This TV gets 4 stars because the display has a glossy finish and not a matte finish. This matters in any room that has windows or lamps. You'll see the reflection of these light sources on the TV screen. Honestly I have no idea why anyone would want a glossy screen over a matte screen.



This is a 720p resolution TV, which is why the price seems low for a 50 inch TV. 1080p sounds great but in reality most folks are not watching _true_ 1080p content. Even with a lot of bluray content, the original content was a lower resolution (often DVD 480p) and it was simply rescanned into 1080p for the bluray disk. If you really want a 1080p TV, go for it of course. There is some true 1080p content out there and it looks great if you have a 1080p TV.

I purchased the P50X3 over a month ago so now I can give a fair review. Overall, for the price of the TV and size (50'), you can't get much better then this. I own another Panasonic Plasma (400U) and to compare picture quality, pretty much on par. The fact its 720p really makes no difference IMO. I play Blu Ray movies and unless you are completely picky about minute subtle differences, you really can't tell a difference. I have not yet had a chance to hook up this TV to my network for use with Netflix, but I have used my laptop with Netflix via HDMI and the quality of video is decent. My only "issues" with the TV is there is a slight glare I can notice at times. However, this is somewhat dependent on the location of my TV in the room with light and windows. My other "knock" is the sound quality compared to my other older Panasonic. My 400U Panasonic had amazing sound and I was hoping for similar sound with this TV. Now, I'm not saying the sound is bad, but it doesn't compare to my older model. It is still good (7 out of 10) versus (10 out of 10) of the other. In conclusion, if you are looking for a large HDTV for under $800, I would recommend this TV.

Thanks Amazon, for doing such a great job with my most recent purchase. I had never bought anything so large and costly by mail before, but now I'm a believer! Fast free delivery and outstanding price. The TV works fantastic and all my friends were quite impressed with how flawless this order was filled and delivered. The picture quality is very good and the TV looks well built. Lots of features that are on more expensive models are on this model as well. I'm a very satisfied customer and I wont hesitate next time I'm looking for a large item and I want the best deal in town.

TV was as described. Original one came with a broken screen however delivery crew repackaged and shipped back to amazon at no charge. Received a refund and reordered. Second TV came and works great!

My toddler loves >and I mean LOVES< watching all his HD pre-school shows on this big screen. The colors are very bright, the image sharp and the sound is superb. It has a media menu that I found to be very useful considering that I enjoy listening to Pandora radio, watching movies on Netflix and so forth I dont even need my computer to access all these pages I can sign up directly from my TV without the need of extra cables whatsoever :) Very nice!

I purchased my set in June, 2011 it's the beginning of September now and my set has worked for maybe three weeks altogether.



I had a TIVO HD connected to HDMI 1 and my computer to HDMI 2. These were the same connections that I used successfully on a Sony TV for three years. I worked fine for two weeks and then it stopped. I called Panasonic Service and they sent out a repair crew (from Tampa..a 200 mile round trip instead of using a local repair firm) and they told me that the main board had burned out. They said that Panasonic would send the replacement board to me and when I got it to call them and they would come back to install it...which they did.



One week later the main board burned out again. Now Panasonic has the nerve to tell me that it is my TIVO unit that is burning out the boards. They say that it is very common for any cable box or satellite receiver to burn out HDMI sockets. They said that they would replace the board this time but my warranty would be void after that. I was told to call a local repair company for service. The new company came and picked up my set to repair. They called me a week later and told me that Panasonic had changed their mind and would not pay for the repair and if I wanted it done it would cost me almost $400. I told them not to do the repair and they said that I still owed them $60. I will pay them the $60 just for the satisfaction on taking a hammer to that piece of junk.



In the mean time I had hooked up a 32" Sanyo that I moved from our kitchen with the same connections and again they worked fine. They are still working fine today. The problem is NOT with my TIVO unit. The problem is with the Panasonic set...and with Panasonic employees.



My advice....stay away from Panasonic products. Their customer service sucks!!!'

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Metal Connector Nailer

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I've had the Bostitch MCN-150 for just about a year now. In that time it has paid for itself two or three times over. One house, with lots of straps and hangers and one deck rebuild with a couple hundred joist hangers is all it took. This tool can do in an hour what it would take a person all day to do by hand. And it saves your fingers in the process. Anyone who has tried to set tico nails in tight spaces knows what I mean. I really can't stress the time savings enough. The size of this gun is great, you can get into some amazingly tight spots and because of the innovative tip design, you can shoot at less than ideal angles.



That being said: There are two cons to this tool. It only holds small clips of nails (24, i think) so you are constantly reloading, but even with a clip of 50 you would be reloading often because of the speed that you can shoot. When nailing off long Simpson type straps, you really notice this. The other con is the fact that you can only shoot 1.5" nails. Which is a bummer here in California, where longer nails are often required. But apparently they now have the MCN-250 which addresses both of these issues. I will be ordering one of those also.



I have also used the Hitachi NR65AK, which is good, but I really think the Bostitch is better and for the price of the Hitachi you could order both Bostitch models and still be in the same ballpark.



One last thing. You can use other companies nails in a pinch. The manual stressed using only Bostitch Nails, but I was forced to use Senco at one point. They work OK but jam in the track occasionally due to burs on the nails. But they'll get you through. Bostitch MCN-150 StrapShot Metal Connector Nailer

we love this little guy...makes quick work of decks, roof ties, hurricane straps, and the like...you will never want to frame without it....we got ours through HD Contractor services for $219...so far the unit is flawless and durable..and the case keeps her ready and clean between jobs.

Quality tool. Used it for a couple deck jobs and I must have hung 100+ joist hangers, it made the difference between making and losing money. Payed for itself the first day in speed and effectiveness. I used a swivel air hose connector for the tight areas. Great addition to my air tools.

If you're in a trade long enough you start getting excited when new, well thought out and engineered tools appear. A while back, the JLC reviewed the Bostitch StrapShot metal connector nailer. After reading the review I knew that there would be a job in my future that would be THE job that would be the perfect excuse to purchase this nailer and put it to use.



Oh Baby!! Where have you been all my life! During the age of dinosaurs we used to beat in teco nails with rocks. That was kind of hard on the rocks and our fingers. Then during the middle ages we would beat in those blasted nails with our 24 oz. serrated face framing hammers. Did you ever notice how the holes in the metal connectors were always just a little bit tinier than the loose (not collated) teco nails? If you didn't hit that frickin' nail with just the right amount of blast the hammer would home in on the nearest thumb and index finger - usually yours - and scrape off a nice thick layer of skin.

Then came the last decade of the 20th century. Homo Constructus Almosterectus, evolved to the point where we actually could nail those pesky metal hangers with our pneumatic framing nailers. The only thing you had to worry about was placing the tip of the nailer near the hole the nail was meant to go into. For those who had difficulty achieving this, numerous jokes involving hair were coined.



Along came the Bostitch MCN-150 StrapShot nailer. If there were a Nobel prize for innovative tool development, I would nominate the boys at Bostitch. It fits in tight joist spaces, it actually uses the nail point to locate the point of aim and after 1 week of daily usage, installing many hundreds of Simpson connectors, I can honestly say we had not one misfire.

If you're in the building business and your crews aren't using this nailer chances are they're not making you any money either. The only complaint I have is the local lack of nails for this gun. Until they become available I'll just keep on ordering them up on Amazon.

I originally purchased a Porter Cable palm nailer, thinking that this was going to be the best [and only] option for hammering home the hundreds (ok...thousands) of nails required to fasten all of the hurricane ties and joist hangers for my 500+ square foot deck.



Thankfully I was wrong and happened to come across this nailer which I was more than happy to add to my collection of pneumatic tools.



My joists are 12" on center and this gun fits as promised in that tight space. Yes - it would be nice if the magazine held more nails than it does, but if that were the case, it wouldn't fit between the joists. I've shot over 1,300 nails so far, both 10d and 8d, and haven't had a single jam...which is good because the nose of the gun doesn't open to clear jams similar to my other porter cable nailers.



I'm a 1-man operation, and using this gun has allowed me to do 75% of the framing for the 2-level deck in less than a week of working only at night after I get home from work.



Overall, I couldn't be happier with the gun - with that said, I still haven't even used my palm nailer - I guess that I'll save that little guy for another project. The only downside to this nailer is it's versatility after the project is over...unless you're going to put a few decks onto friend's houses, it's not an 'around-the-house' nailer, since it won't fire if it doesn't detect a metal strap that you're trying to shoot through.

If you build decks or use a lot of hangers like hurricane clips that are required nowadays, this gun is a must. For the price you can't beat it, it does exactly what it's supposed to do and the size is perfect. I purchased the larger gun that does the same thing with replacing the tip and liked it but the gun is huge, didn't work well between joists so I broke down and bought this gun and love it. The other gun will only be used if I need two guys going together with hurricane clips, but the MCN-150 will do all of the grunt work. If you have the Rap-A-Nail gun the nails will work in this gun.'

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Horrible - useless

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This was a horrible buy. I wish I could give it zero stars. I also wish it was worth something to send it back. The support cords where frayed in a couple of places. The rubber tube that is supposed to go over the bow was slide over completely to one side of the cords.... making for a good 30 mins of sliding it into the middle so I could use it. the pole is poorly made, one of the pole button clips was broken and rattles inside the pole. I ended up drilling another hole and placing a screw in it. The supports put some stress on your windshields so make sure you have those small support legs on them or you could damage your windshield. Even after playing with it day after day I never could get it tight enough to get rid of my puddles in the back of the boat.

It was usless in the end and I ended up making my own support system out of plywood and PVC pipe. Cannot recommend this product. Cheaper to buy some things, be creative, and make your own support system. Cover Up Boat Cover Support

where do I start ??

First ... no instructions just the picture on the front of the box... not to helpful.

Middle... The aluminum support pole doesnt support so well.

Last... straps, straps, and even more straps. Without any instructions my assembly ability was limited.

After carefully reading most of reviews, I knew I need this product. In California the rainy season started several weeks ago. I store my boat in open area. Like many of us I am trying to save my boat from elements using decent cover, but am refusing to use expensive under the roof storage options. Regular, well fitting universal cover for my 20 foot Bayliner cuddy boat is doing its job very well, but after every rain i needed to visit my boat in storage facility and take care of about one from the front and three buckets of the water from back of the boat

Reading complains that this support is having way too long webbing and two triangular plates instead of expected one only???, I knew I will find a good use of them. Every model of boat is different and in my opinion it's virtually impossible to build cheaply anti-rain support fitting perfectly all of them without a need for adjustments. In this kind of installation, invention and open mind is very welcome, so I used them to get it working right. One thing I found unsatisfactory in this set was too short mast. It might work on bass boat but in my Bayliner the windshield is about 4.5- 5 ft from the floor, the fully extended mast supplied was at least six inches too short. This should be corrected by maker of this support. All the rest is just fine. Second triangular plate (the one with slots not cut open) is for supporting the mast from the bottom. My floor is carpeted and strong, so I do not need plate on the floor and saved it as eventual replacement of the upper one, in case it brakes after years of use.

My first installation was a copy of their suggestion. So I put mast about 1 foot behind the windshield and 2-3 inches above it. (To achieve this I cut the piece of metal broom stick of very similar diameter, nicely extending the length of supplied one. Source: Albertson's - cost about S4.00). The webbing was installed from the high rail on the bow to the mast and splitting there. From mast two webbings were going to clevises installed in my boat at two rear corners of the hull. After that I was left with extra triangular board and about 30 ft of extra webbing. I went home happy with the look of the boat and waited for the next rain. It came three days later. Results? Perfectly dry back of the boat and about one bucket of water trapped between high rail on both sides of boat and two narrowly spaced webbings, going from mast to the bow. To correct the problem, using left-over webbing, I added two more webbings on each side, going from mast to the rail about half way between windshield and bow. About week later another rain hit hard. Next morning I visited the boat. No drop of water found, problem solved. If maker of this support reads these reviews, PLEASE SUPPLY LONGER MAST AND EXPLAIN THE NEED TO BE CREATIVE, giving a few more hints how to protect the boat from accumulation of water. Covers when dry, might look pretty tight, but after wind and rain water starts working on them, they develop first pockets which become deeper as heavy water fills them. The trick is to make a shape of cover this way, that even when wet, it will not start collecting the water, even in small amount. Boat shapes differ greatly. My boat is happy with the purchased support. I give four starts only as the piece of broom stick deserves the remaining fifth. - Useless'

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Horrible - useless useless Horrible - useless

Vga To Hdmi

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I use this cable to connect my PC to my Samsung 32" LCD HDTV...and boy, is the picture quality something to behold!



The image quality is really quite fantastic and this cable has worked rather admirably. I required 15' because of the distance between my PC and TV, but I can see no image distortion/ghosting/other problems of any kind.



I purchased this cable about 2.5 months ago, and have had no problems with it since! I should also make it a point to mention that the price of the cable is very reasonable!



If you are at all interested in using your HDTV for a monitor, definitely consider buying this cable. The quality of DVI, as opposed to VGA, is very much superior, in my opinion. 15ft Premium HDMI to DVI Cable

I have 2 PCs that I wanted to connect to my 32 inch 1080p TV. My Gaming PC and my browsing PC (aka "dirty computer") I needed 2 cheap cables that would fit the bill. I held off making a review coz I wanted to test them out for at least a month of heavy usage and I can certainly say that I didn't have any problem with them whatsoever. One thing people should be aware of is that most companies are trying to market hdmi cables and hdmi/dvi cables like they were doing with the analog rca/component cables. hdmi, dvi or any other digital cables either work or don't work since the signal is digital. Even if the signal weakens or get some interference, as long as the required amount data goes through, you will not see a difference. It's not like an analog signal where you will see image degradation because of signal loss or interference. A digital signal will either show you the picture or no picture at all... there is nothing in between! Don't believe in marketing!!!

This is one of those products that doesn't have a lot of features to describe. It's a cable. It carries a signal from one end to the other. This particular cable does exactly what it is designed to do. Just make sure you know that it isn't designed to carry audio (DVI doesn't carry audio), and also make sure that your computer has the right DVI input. So, in summary, it works as intended.

I used this cable to hook my HP Desktop video card to my HD TV. I use this to watch MLB TV and to preview all my home videos I create. I was leery of the price (seemed too cheap) but based on other reviews I figured it was worth the chance. I cannot imagine it working better? I want to thank the others for their reviews that led me to purchasing this product

This cable lets me use my HDTV as a computer monitor, and it works great. If you're wondering how, it's easy (these are Windows Vista instructions - other operating systems may vary though all Windows systems are probably the same or similar):



First, turn off your computer. Then connect the DVI jack on the cable to your computer's DVI output and the HDMI jack to an available HDMI input on your TV. Use your TV's remote to select that HDMI input on your TV. Then turn on your computer. When it boots up it will send the video signal automatically to your TV and you're in business.



Note that this cable will only transfer the video signal (not the audio) to your TV. You can either listen to the audio through your computer's speakers or you'll need an additional cable to send the audio to either your TV or your stereo system.

Not much to say, good price, high quality, picture looks great, didn't have to go to bestbuy and spend way too much money. Also twice as long as the ones at best buy, for about a quarter of the price.

This cable works wonderfully assuming your monitor supports DHCP over DVI then this will work wonderfully. The only downside is that DVI does not carry a audio signal so you will not get audio out of your monitor but this is to be expected. The quality of course is perfect since it is a digital signal after all. With a digital cable you either get the picture or you don't there is no in between.



Solid,Works, and is cheap what more can you ask for?'

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Power Plug Adapter

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I've been using this model of travel converter for over 5 years, traveling all over the world. I have only a few 110V US items that I carry with me, the most important to me is an RCR123a battery charger. It has yet to fail me. I use just an adapter (not a converter) for my laptops and other items that have power supplies capable of handling 100-240 Volts at 50 or 60 Hz.



I paid $25 for mine, so the shipping charge doesn't seem terribly out of line. I would like to get it for less, of course. Simran 1875 Watts Travel Voltage Converter For Using 110V USA Products In 220V/240V Countries. Model SM-1875

Having gone through part of the reviews here, I guess some users might have misunderstood the application of this convertor.



If you want to use your electronic devices operated with a rechargeable battery (such as your iPhone, cell phone, ipod, ipad, laptop PC, digital camera) in another country where the household power supply is at 220/240V, you don't need to bother, because nearly all these electronic products are designed today to be completed with a battery charger suitable for a voltage range from 100V to 240V, in other words, people carry these electronic items and travel around in the world so these items should work properly anywhere at any level of voltage. Whatever you have and wish to use in a foreign country, just carefully check the marking on the battery charger about the voltage rating ... if the voltage rating is printed or embossed as "100-240V", then don't worry, simply connect the power plug to a socket to charge the battery after you get to the destination.



I also brought with me two laptop PC's, a cell phone and an SRL digital camera from China (at 220/240V) and have been using them here in the U.S. (at 110V) for almost half a year ... everything is okay as perfectly as they worked in China, because the battery chargers can work at any voltage from 100V to 240V. The applicable type of plugs may be different in a foreign country, as there are many types of plugs in the world. To make sure that your above-mentioned electronic products can be plugged in a socket in a foreign country, you should also check if you need a plug adapter. If you need a plug adapter, after getting to the destination you will first insert the plug adapter into a local socket, and then insert the the power plug of your electronic product into the plug adapter to charge the battery. You may search by googling "Worldwide Travel Plug Adapter Guide", and refer to the type of plugs that is used in the country you are going to visit.



However, if you want to use an ELECTRICAL item operated under alternating current (like a hair dryer, steam iron), you will need such a convertor, so that your electrical item for 110V can be used at foreign voltage 220/240V. If you don't, your electrical item will get burned from a voltage break-through. Some products sold in the U.S. are completed with a rechargeable battery (electrical toothbrushes, for example), but the voltage rating of the battery charger is subject to 110V, meaning that the battery can be charged at 110V only. So if you need to use such an electrical item outside the U.S. at 220/240V, you should also ask for such a convertor.



I ordered this convertor for my parents who are going to travel in China, as they'd like to bring a water flosser with them and that is absolutely an electrical item. I received this in a good condition, but couldn't find a better manual than the brief instruction on the box. The quality should be okay as it has adequate weight. Hope my parents would say yes to its quality after they use it.





Update on 04-28-11:

According to my parents, this converter does not work with a water flosser in China. It is too weak, and there is no water flush generated from the water flosser even at the 'HIGH' position of the converter.

It was a waste of money. I would not recommend this product, and hence reduced the rating to 1 star.

A very compact and lightweight converter to carry while travelling overseas. I have used it with my battery, cellphone and camcorder chargers. Also I have used it with my Shaver and toothbrush. I have owned it for two years and have used it on my trips to Europe and Asia. It has a thermal fuse which protects it from overheating. It is very reliable and has never failed on me.

I travel extensively overseas for work. This converter is the best travel companion! I use it for my iPod, iPhone, cell phone charger, camera AND my hair dryer. It is compact and easy to travel with. I highly recommend this converter for travel. I'm glad I found it on Amazon.

I cannot deal with a bad hair day. Even while travelling I must carry my own hair dryer & hair straightner. This converter worked great for me while holidaying in Europe & Asia. As per instructions I used it on the High setting for both the Items. It also worked great with my husband's shaver & iPhone on the Low setting. We were impressed that such a lightweight converter, worked so well for all our gadgets. We highly recommend this converter for travellers.'

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Computer Hardware

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Those of you who have read my G5 review might be surprised that I bought an MX518 instead of a G5. I'm pretty high on the G5, and rather sad about breaking it, but I was curious about the MX518, if for no other reason than it is the standard by which the G5 is so often compared.



I've been using the new mouse for about a week and it's hard to distinguish performance-wise from a G5. But there are some differences worth mentioning.



What I Miss About the G5 -



Separate X and Y axis sensitivity settings - this feature was only available in SetPoint's Game Mode but did give me some flexibility in opening up the horizontal sensitivity for close-in sweeping without sacrificing vertical precision.



Adjustable weights - My G5 as described in my review weighs 140g; the MX518 weighs 105g. The weight module on the G5 makes the entire difference. I've noticed the difference, but have adjusted without too much trouble.



Sensitivity Indicator - Occasionally I'd lose track of the mouse sensitivity and had to look at the G5's LED indicator, which in some cases was easier than wiggling the mouse.



What I Like Better About the MX518 -



Two thumb buttons which I've set for raising and lowering sensitivity a la user.xml customization similar to what I did on my G5. Their location is still a bit high.



BTW, the SetPoint software will detect the MX518 and append user.xml with default settings for the MX518. This is cool as it allows one to switch back (or use in parallel) to a G5 without losing any customization.



Toss-Ups -



The size and shape of the MX518 and G5 are identical, however my G5 had a slightly rougher texture both on its' topside and its' gripping surfaces. The MX518 is more slippery in both areas, so those who tend to rely on palm friction for grip might prefer a G5. I tend to use my thumb and pinky to hold the mouse, so it's not as noticeable.



Conclusion -



The G5 was the best mouse I ever owned, but the MX518 is an acceptable and more cost-effective replacement.



Public Service Announcement - How to "Deep Hack" your MX518 --



The SetPoint utility keeps its' configuration info in a file called user.xml (I forget the path, but it's stored in the Documents and Settings directory on XP). Editing the file itself is not difficult - because it's XML, any text editor will do. It's WHEN one edits that's important. SetPoint guards against accidental changes or deletions by rebuilding the user.xml file when it exits. So you have to do the following:



1) Close SetPoint, either from the system tray or going into the task manager.

2) Copy user.xml to user.xml.orig or whatever suffix you use to save an archival copy.

3) Edit user.xml, by copying and pasting the tags for the normal "increase sensitivity" button to button 4. For the MX518, I also copy and paste the normal "decrease sensitivity" button tags to button 5. If like me you want to use it for games that you've set up for SetPoint's "game mode", you'll also have to change the section in user.xml dealing with game mode. Otherwise, the change will fail as soon as you run the game.

4) Delete last_user.xml.

5) Open SetPoint. In my case, I logged out of XP then logged back in to reload SetPoint.



The end result is that outside of game mode, both the standard increase / decrease sensitivity buttons and the thumb buttons can change the mouse sensitivity. In game mode, only the thumb buttons can change the mouse sensitivity. This is because game mode has a different XML syntax than default mode. Conceivably this technique can be used to arbitrarily reprogram all of the buttons. Make sure you backup user.xml before charging in! Logitech MX 518 High Performance Optical Gaming Mouse (Metal)

I like this mouse a lot. With the right mouse pad (a Microthin Wow!Pad from Office Depot), this mouse glides beautifully, never seen one better. The main buttons are easy to push (only Microsoft does this right also). The forward and back side buttons are a little small but work fine. The scroll wheel is not as nice as the MS Intellimouse 4 as it still clicks and is harder to roll. Never used the tilt wheel on the MS mouse. It is gaming where this mouse shines. The mouse tracks no matter how fast I move the mouse. The mouse never sleeps so it always responds perfectly. Frankly, I have not yet found any use that I needed to change the mouse resolution (i.e. speed) but in trials that is easy to do.

Feel is good, middle to small sized so fits most of my family. Cord is thin and a little stiff so it does not always lay completely flat (I have not found on that did). Very lightweight. Contoured nicely to fit the cupped hand.

Worked with Win XP as soon as I plugged it in, drivers and program loaded with no hassle.

Nice job, Logitech!

I bought this mouse in April of 2005 and I haven't had a problem with it. Perfectly tracks on all surfaces I have tested (though I'm sure highly reflective ones might cause a bit of problem). Honestly, I haven't found the DPI switching to be a feature I use very often, but it doesn't hurt.



Buttons have a very nice tactile feel. Especially useful are the two buttons on the left side of the mouse which default to paging forward and back in your webpages. After spending any significant time with this mouse, it's hard to surf the web with any other mouse; you'll constantly be pressing the nonexistant side buttons in an effort to navigate. The forward and back action also works when browsing through files and folders, which is also very helpful.



Finally, ergonomics on this mouse are absolutely incredible, at least if you are right handed.



Do not hesitate to buy this mouse



Update 2/28/09:



I am still using this mouse 3 years after buying it. The buttons started sticking slightly but it still works fine. I'll be very sad when it eventually died'

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Conception - opk, fertility

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My husband and I just went thru our first round of IUI (finger's crossed) and was instructed by the nurse to start using the ovulation kit (of our choice) on day 10. After reading all the reviews, this seemed to be the easiest to use, and had the best feedback, so we went with these. On Day 10 - cirlce. Day 11- smiley face. We called the nurse and the next day they did an ultra-sound showing that I was in fact ready (ie. the test was accurate) and they went ahead with IUI. We're trying to stay very optimistic that one round is all we'll need (so think good thoughts) but if not, I have total confidence in using these for the following cycles. Clearblue Easy Digital Ovulation Test, 20 Count

I love the smiley faces on these - no more comparing line darkness! I also like that these are the best deal I can find anywhere - you get 20 sticks, and they are individually wrapped so you don't have to use all of them in one month like some tests require. I would definitely recommend these!

Like many women, I had trouble interpreting the two-line system on the standard dipstick OPK's. A friend suggested that I try the smiley face digital sticks, and I'm glad I did! It's very clear to see when you've had your LH surge, because the smiley face is unmistakable. I also use the ClearBlue Easy ovulation monitor, because it measures both the LH level and the estrogen level. It gives you 3 levels of fertility (low, high, and peak), so it provides a lot more information than just the LH measurement. I use the ovulation monitor in the morning and the smiley face sticks in the late afternoon, and oftentimes the afternoon test is the one that turns positive first. This two-test technique has definitely helped me pinpoint my LH surges and plan my BD sessions accordingly!

I have been TTCing for over a year now without success, expended time and money in IC's and never got a positive (I have long, irregular cycles after the contraceptive injection). I decided to invested in this product, the first month on CD33 and CD34 I got the smiley face, 10 days later I am pregnant with my first baby.



It definitely worth the price.

What sold me on this product was that I didn't have to figure out if a line was darker or lighter. It was a very obvious happy face or circle. After trying for many months, I didn't want to analyze or overthink anything. I bought a box and started using them on the proper day. They are super easy to use and to read. On the 5th day of usage, I got a smiley face. Now, a few weeks later, I'm pregnant.



They worked for me!

I used the ovulation test strip in Nov 2010 & Jan 2011. When I 1st used them in Nov 2010 I was under a tremendous amount of stress with both work and the holidays. I ovulated a week late but I kept using the test strips. When I ovulated a week later then whatI was expecting I was in shock. My husband and I were together once after we saw the smilie face. Needless to say, I got my period in December.



I almost didn't a new box in January 2011 but I had 2 friends swear by this product. So we tried again in January 2011. I'm now 5 weeks pregnanat. I realized that in November I was in no state of mind to try to have a baby. Come January, life was back to normal as was my cycle. I will share what worked for me. I am very lucky because I am VERY regular. I expected I would ovulate Monday or Tuesday. We started to have sex on Saturday and low and behold I got the smilie face on Sunday! I was in shock. So we had sex through Tuesday & next thing you know..I'm pregnant! So I would definately recomemnd this kit. It was great & easy to use. Totally takes the guess work out of that very small 24 hour period of ovulation! We even used the digital home preganacy test and it was great!!



I would highly recommend this product. Don't get frustrated, it does take about 1-2 months. Definately my 1st month I had no idea the frequency we needed to have sex and I was in no emotional and mental condition to think of having a baby but once I realized that its imporant for the sperm to be waiting for the egg and not the other way around, January was a pure success! I was lucky that we had sex on Sat. and ovulated on Sun. and thanks to this product it really helped us and it totally worked and I'm 36 yrs old! Good luck & be patience!

This is the second Clearblue easy ovulation digital kit I've been trying and I will NEVER buy another one again. I wasted about $66 on these two boxes (7 strips) and what a waste of my money! I thought since these are digital, they would be easy to read and highly accurate, oh boy was I wrong!. The first time I tried it I thought maybe it was a bad batch because I never got a smiley face and I was parallel testing with CVS brand and Answer (both detected my surge and I was also being monitored because I was on Clomid). So I decided to give it a second chance. Again this cycle I have been testing with Answer, the CVS brand and clearblue easy. AGAIN both Answer and CVS brand detected my surge on day 14, but NOT CLEARBLUE EASY!!. It can't be my urine because I used the same urine for all three tests. So my conclusion is clearblue is not accurate. Personally I really like the CVS brand and it is much cheaper. I am also planning to try some of the online brands that are much cheaper than the store brands. My advice is to skip the digital and go with the strips and they are easy to read (in my opinion). If you are not sure if the test line is dark enough, most likely it is not a surge because a surge is obvious and you will know when you see it. Good Luck to all the ladies out there trying to conceive and I hope this helps! - Fertility - Ttc - Opk - Conception'

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Kindle Reading Lights - kindle 2 book light, kindle accessory

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The light has really only got to do two things well: stay in place and provide glare-free light.



The clip mostly works, though it can be dislodged rather easily. The clamp is not a levered-clothespin, but a parallel clamp that doesn't exert a whole lot of pressure when in place. Not a dealbreaker for bedtime readers, but just don't expect to leave this thing in place while walking around the house or transporting in a bag.



The LEDs put out as much light as a decent flashlight. It's not a peaceful, soft glow but a serious task light on a gooseneck. It's bright enough to annoy a spouse... even a spouse that's watching TV. If Belken knocked the lower setting down to about 1/3 its current brightness, it'd be plenty bright for reading the Kindle. The switch is on the lamp head, which itself is pretty small. Flicking the tiny switch with a thumbnail isn't that bad, but it's easy to flick right past the lower setting and end up lighting up the whole bedroom for a second --before switching the thing off by accident (missing the lowest setting, again). By doing this you end up creating a momentary disco effect in the bedroom just trying to get the thing turned on.



Having AAAs instead of coin batteries in the light is a welcome convenience. You're more likely to have AAAs around the house than some little watch battery. Changing the batts is as simple as changing the batts in a TV remote control; there are no little screws contend with. I haven't had it long enough to judge its battery life, though.



But be aware that the using 3xAAAs in a light does add a considerable amount of weight to the top of the Kindle. The concern isn't really with the weight it adds, but the way it affects the balance and ergonomics of the Kindle. I found the I had to hold the Kindle up a bit higher than I was used to. Holding something for an hour or two, you find that a little change can make a big difference. I found I liked clipping the light to the bottom of the Kindle to keep the center of balance low. But, this covers up the space bar and some other keys. The next best thing is to clip it to the side of the Kindle I'm holding, just above the page turn buttons.



Pro:

AAA battery's easily available and simple to replace

2 brightness settings

Flexible head is easily adjustable for glare-free reading



Con:

Too bright. Even on it's dimmer setting, it lights half the bedroom.

Heavy, affects the handling and balance of the Kindle Belkin Clip-On Reading Light for Kindle (White)

Like Periwinkle I have been collecting various lights for my Kingle 2. After reading Perkiwinkle's review, I bought this light. I absolutely love it. It is much lighter than all the other lights for the Kindle 2. It can be adjusted where there is no glare. I have been using it every day for going on a couple weeks. I do a lot of night reading so the weight, amount of light is important to me. I find this to be the perfect lightweight and the amount of light perfect.



Now I have to figure out what to do with those other lights as this is the perfect light for the Kindle 2.



I have a gel cover on my Kindle 2 and the light fits over it very well. Admittedly it is a snug fit, but that what I would want.



I would give this 100 stars if I could.

So i've been surfing around for a light for my kindle for a bit, the only requirements being that it lights up my kindle and wont hurt it/scratch it. As per these preconditions i've been hesitant to buy some of the others that you can get like the Great Point Light Flex Neck Clip-On reading light or the M-Edge e-Luminator2 Booklight because i also like to read with my kindle 'naked'.



So i saw this one and decided to give it a go -

- Does a great job lighting up my kindle, there are no glare spots that cant be coaxed away

- Fits on my kindle like a glove, an im not worried about any damage done because of the anti-slip grip

- It's nice and light so you barley notice it when your holding your kindle

- It squishes up for easy travel

- And kudos to the 'guaranteed frustration free packaging' which i just found amusing



Overall, i am very happy

For those of you who have tried to find reading lights for your Kindle, you know there are surprisingly few to choose from on Amazon (at least at the time I looked). After reading reviews on the ones available, I decided on this one. I can't compare it to others, like some reviewers have, but I can say I love it. It's light and compact and easy to carry and use. The light has 2 settings, high and low. High is a little too bright for the 6" Kindle but may be needed for the DX. The low setting is fine and even tho there is a bit of glare, you can adjust that by moving the light a bit to counter. So far, the batteries (3 AAA) are lasting a long time. I am very happy with this purchase and hope my review helps in your decision. - Kindle Accessory - Kindle Book Light - Reading Light - Kindle 2 Book Light'

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Alkaline Batteries

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I'm pretty used to buying batteries online and finding they had been made long before I ordered them (had some CR123 with experations the next month from another vendor). In at least my case, my batteries from this vendor show a production date of 3/30/10...and I ordered them on April 18th. You can't get any younger batteries (exp is Mar2016). I'll be checking this distrbutor out for the rest of my battery needs. Duracell Batteries, D Size, 8-Count Packages (Pack of 2)

I got these about three weeks ago, and still haven't used them up yet. So many batteries. Awesome. So far, they've lasted about four times as long in my Canon digital point-and-shoot than my Energizer rechargeables. And they're on track to outperform the regular Energizers in my Xbox controllers. I think I'm a coppertop convert. The price is pretty good, too--probably not the absolute cheapest, but these are real Duracells (not knockoffs) that are far from their expiration date.

If you check out local stores, you will find these are at least a bit below retail sales price for these batteries. Batteries will always be around the same price, but a few dollars off is worth getting them through Amazon!

Although I'm sure my local fire department will cringe if they read this, I buy these things for our backups for our fire alarms and they last over 4 years! Wow! Now if I buy a knockoff brand, or even Energizer, I can only get 18 months out of them before they start squealing to be replaced. Plus, this 8 battery pack makes it awfully simple to have them around when it comes time to change them, and it's the right number for my house. Love these Duracells! Highly, highly recommend!

I tend to buy batteries based on two prime criteria. First, lithium for units that will have a long down time (since lithium holds its charge well over time, I hate to be surprised by an emergency flashlight that doesn't work); alkaline, for everyday appliances (it doesn't last as long, but the cost benefit ratio is beneficial). Second,I shop for a good price. Duracell alkalines are top of the line batteries that I prefer for all my everyday item, like remotes, clocks, mini-amps, etc. This particular offering is a great price, that I haven't matched anywhere.

Very highly recommended.

Live in foothills. After going through 3 days of no power and new storm coming, looked for D batteries and they were all sold out. Like the convenience of having enough and the price was right at Amazon!

Although I mostly use nimh cells these days for their higher current capacity and their green qualities of not being thrown away, there are things that still need alkaline batteries. Remote controlls can run 2 years on a set (although the eneloop cells are an option). Some flashlights need the 1.5 vs the 1.2 volt difference in alkaline cells and nimh. Also some times you don't have 4 charged up batteries ready to go, so alkaline is the alternative you pay for not keeping a set charged up.



I bought these when I bought my dad a weather station - it had about 5 outdoor devices, all used 2 ea alkaline batteries to run the radio remote weather sensors that transmit to the base station which used 4 AAs for backup if AC fails.



These are fresh date code, healthy cells and fill the bill just fine when you need them. NOTE - in some places where the outdoor equipment was hard to get to (have to climb on roof) I used the L91bp lithium alternative Energizer L91BP-8 Lithium AA Photo Battery (8-Pack) which you get about 8 cells for the price of 20 here, but they last 8 times longer, saving alot of trips to the roof to change the batteries. The down low sensors got alkaline cells instead. It's important to choose the right cell based on intended use, and this is one example. Also I have a temp sensor in the refrigerator that runs on lithium cells due to the low temp - they work fine at freezing temps, and will radio the temp to the weather station which has alarms set if the freezer fails.'

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Disc Jewel Cases - cmm, storage

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These jewel cases are compact and durable (considering how easily most CD cases break). Two packs of these can hold CDs from a 50-spindle pack. They're great space-savers. One warning: they are so thin, that if you're looking for jewel cases to replace broken ones for music or video games, you won't have space for the booklets (music lyrics or video game instructions). I tried to use some cases for my old video game CDs and they don't shut properly with the booklets inside. Most of the thinner inserts will fit, though. As far as using them for spindle CDs, I will definitely buy more of these. Memorex 32021926 Clear Slim Jewel Cases (25-Pack)

These have all the attributes you would expect from high quality Jewel Cases. They are sturdy and substantial enough to protect the CDs inside. The hinges and clasps work smoothly so the case snaps closed and stays closed, but doesn't fight you when you want to open it. The center hub holds the CD securely so it doesn't rattle around inside, but releases it easily when you want to take the CD out.I can, however, confirm the experience of some the other reviewers. I purchased two 25-packs... and in each there was one damaged case. One had a 2-inch long crack in it's face, but was still perfectly usable. The second had a broken hinge which would have made the case DOA but I was able to repair it with some Duco cement. My feeling is that they are inexpensive enough so that a 4% damage rate is acceptable. (By the way, the package comes enclosed in a cardboard sleeve and shrink-wrapped, so if you were to purchase these in a brick-and-mortar retail store, you couldn't inspect them first as one reviewer has suggested.)One other fact about Slim Jewel Cases bears mentioning. They don't have spine labels (the label on the edge of the case). You either have to shuffle through them when you're looking for a particular CD, or do what I do and make your own spine label from a stick-on label cut to size with an Exacto knife and a straight edge. That way, you can store twice as many CDs in a regular CD storage rack.Buying your CDs in spindles and protecting them with these cases allows you to conserve both funds and space! What's not to love?

If you're going to save money buying CDs in bulk spindles, you're going to need cases. Look no further. These Memorex cases are not only the cheapest cases I've come across but they look great and, at half the size of normal cases, can store double the CDs in the same space. I must add that these are not only the best jewel cases but also the best slimline cases - the clasps on these are very good (better than, for example, the Imation cases) and I've never had any break on me. If they're in stock, buy a few packs!

This is a great product for those of us who buy the spindal packs of cd's. These cases are great because they are so slim. I was able to put 2 cases in my cd stand where i used to be able to only put 1. They don't have spots for thick books and they are fragile (my daughter broke one by dropping it one the floor when it was open). But overall these are a great buy. Buy 2 packs.

Like most of the others who reviewed these jewel cases, I found 2 broken ones. The first was the top one, which was totally cracked. And the second was in the middle. Even bending the cracked ones they seemed pretty sturdy. One reason may because they had both my jewel cases and a 100 pack of CDR spindle in the same box...

These are very resistant to cracking, and are very inexpensive. They are HALF the thickness of an ordinary CD case, DOUBLING the amount of CD's that your rack can hold, and taking up less space on your desk and being less cumbersome. They are highly useful, and are a bargain at this price of just 20 cents each!

before buying this product, i read some of the reviews. after reading them, i was thinking.. hrm, should i really buy this or not. because most had said that a few had been broken. well, i opened up both packages today, and not one was broken out of either package. 50/50 cd cases are in perfect and useable condition. i would deffinitly buy these again

The majority of my cases were damaged in shipping. I immediately threw away about eight, but as I tried to use the rest I gradually found ten or so more that had sustained damage as well. Maybe I'm alone, given the other high ratings, but these seem more fragile than other slim cases I've used in the past. I'd give them 3-stars (because they're cheap) if they didn't have to be shipped.

These jewel cases are a very good deal. usually 10 cases cost 5 bux but you can get 25 for the price of ten! they break under stress or if you drop them, but the low price makes up for that. i've only broken like 3 out of the 25. the only complaint i have with them is that ... can not keep them in! - Cd Cases - Storage - Cmm - Media'

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Coupon Eligible Dtv Converter Box

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I purchased the two major timer event schedulable/programmable converter boxes available as of this date: the Zinwell and the DTVPal Plus (enhanced version of the DTVPal or TR-40 CRA). These are some of the major problems and advantages of each.



The biggest problem I have with the Zinwell is that the remote control is the flimsiest and cheapest control I have ever seen with any product. The down arrow button is already having problems responding to pressing after only a few days. It usually takes several years before buttons on a remote control begin to go bad, and I am concerned that this one will not even be working a year from now. The text labels on the buttons are rubbing off and becoming harder to read.



The biggest problem with the DTVPal Plus is the reception. The Plus is supposed to have enhanced reception over the prior models which were famous for bad reception, but in my area it gets a couple less UHF channels than the Zinwell and often has severe breakup on the ABC affiliate and two other channels (even with an amplified antenna). Perhaps this will be less of an issue if digital signals get boosted in February.



The Zinwell has 8 timer events to 5 for the DTVPal Plus. The Zinwell lacks a recurring M-F weekday scheduling option. Both devices make you go through several menus to get to the timer scheduling. The DTVPal Plus has an awkward event scheduling process that takes you through two screens. The Zinwell has its own awkwardness-it makes you choose a channel from a list of station call letters rather than channel numbers! The Zinwell also requires confirmation at the end of the timer scheduling process, and defaults to Cancel making it easy to accidentally cancel your timer event, so watch out.



If you like on-screen program guides, the DTVPal Plus has a fuller one than the Zinwell, and you can even schedule timer events direct from the program guide with the DTVPal Plus. The DTVPal Plus has an annoying download each time you turn on the converter box, but you can cancel the download.



If you get a Zinwell, do not throw out the manual. Zinwell has unfortunately set a password on some of the channel functions, so you will need to look up the default password in the manual if you try to access these functions.



Do not expect much support. Both companies took several days to respond to an inquiry and gave canned answers that did not address my question. After supplying follow-up information, neither company got back to me. There are several other issues and quirks with both devices.



(--some updated notes 9/16/2009 after a few months of using--)



The Zinwell picture quality has been nice. Occasionally, I have had an issue with the Zinwell audio and video getting slightly out of synch (as also reported by some other reviewers)-but doesn't bother me and turning off and on puts them back in synch.



The biggest problem I have had with regular use of the Zinwell is that scheduled recurring events (weekly, etc.) get messed up regularly so I have to constantly monitor them. The Zinwell loses the channel on the recurring events and resets the channel to the highest station number. (I believe this is the most commonly reported major problem with this device.) Periodically it loses the recurring events completely and they need to be reentered. One-time events also get corrupted sometimes, although less often. Even the most popular 5 star review of this box by couchbum, in the Comments link, acknowledges that the timers fail periodically.



The DTVPal Plus tends to run hot, so I have propped it up at an angle to give it some cooling space. I have had a disturbing problem a couple of times where the DTVPal Plus would not power on-had to unplug it from the power source and plug it back in again, and then it resumed working.



Since they boosted the digital signals after the transition, the DTVPal Plus weaker reception has not been a problem and it now gets all the channels that my other converter boxes get. (However, I live in an urban area and have an amplified antenna, so the weaker reception may still be a problem for many people.)



The DTVPal Plus regularly loses timer events and is very unreliable. I have found two specific sequences of timer events that cause it to consistently drop events. The DTVPal Plus timer issues have been far more numerous and problematic than those with the Zinwell. I used several VCRs over two decades and never had a device malfunction on its timer events or spontaneously change the selected channel. Not sure why it is so difficult for these digital boxes.



I get the best results with both devices by setting timers the morning of the same day as the programs. Setting timers a day or more in advance of the programs increases chances for timer event corruption.



Although the on-screen station program guide for the DTVPal Plus is robust, it has an inadequacy. The normal program guide access turns off audio and video while you are browsing the guide, so you cannot hear or watch television as you peruse it. To view television as you browse the guide, you cannot use the Guide button on the remote but must use the directional buttons to access the guide-but the guide still overlays much of the screen (semi-transparent).



In the clock settings, the Zinwell has no daylight savings on/off, while the DTVPal Plus does allow you to control daylight savings. The Zinwell has the advantage that you can manually set the time, while the DTVPal Plus does not allow you to. If you manually set the time in the Zinwell, I found it loses 1-2 minutes per week and also loses the clock time completely if power goes out even for a second (most devices will hold the time for 2-3 minutes in a power outage). I have mine on a UPS (backup battery) to keep it from losing time in a brief power outage. At least the Zinwell allows you to control the time if you want to. (Early in the digital conversion both boxes were keeping erratic time so clock options were important, but digital time signals have improved enough now that using automatic time is generally fine. This has made the options of manual time setting and daylight savings much less important but I have included this info for those interested.)



The DTVPal Plus has one bright spot: it handles poor signal quality well. The two aspects of reception are signal strength and signal quality. While the DTVPal Plus does not pick up low strength well, it does handle poor signal quality very well. There are a couple of minor stations with poor quality (but adequate strength) that my Zenith and Zinwell cannot receive but that the DTVPal Plus picks up. In my experience, it also has less dropout from other things that reduce signal quality, such as splitting the antenna feed or electrical interference.



One other small plus I have found with the DTVPal Plus: it operates from my old universal remote (as a SAT box), which allows me to control all my devices-very, very handy. None of the other converter boxes that I have will work with this old universal remote, although I have heard that some of the newer universal remotes can control converter boxes. This somewhat makes up for the fact that the DTVPal Plus has no buttons on the box and can only be operated by remote control. (However, it may be too sensitive-it also turns on when I press the fast forward button on one brand of VCR remote!) Zinwell ZAT-970A Digital to Analog TV Converter Box (for Antenna Use)'

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Memory Stick Pro Duo - cybershot, camera case

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If you have a Sony Cybershot digital camera, you should get this case to protect it. I bought 3 different cases for my new WSC-290 because I could't find the right one, and then I came across this. It is better than the LCS-CST soft carrying case because it has a zipper that encloses your camera all the way. If you drop it accidentally in water, there's a good chance you can prevent water from getting inside the case compared to the Velcro lock of the LCS-CST soft carrying case. I also bought the Sony LCS-TWE soft carrying case with carabineer (available in different colors) but it only looks cute, not sturdy.



This also has a front pocket and a strap in the back that can be attached to your belt or bag if you get tired of holding it. Sony LCSCSQ Soft Carrying Case for Sony T, W, and N Series Digital Cameras (Black)

I wanted a case that just BARELY fit my HX5v so that it wouldn't add significant bulk, but would protect the camera from bumps and maybe have enough space for a spare battery/memory card.



This is the case for that. I can BARELY fit a spare battery in the external "pocket", and it would be plenty secure. The camera fits nice/fine inside. If I didn't put an extra battery outside, I could fit 2-3 memory cards in their protective cases in the external pocket. Otherwise, a couple of them will fit in with the camera.



I'm very happy with this purchase - exactly what I wanted.



It has:



- JUST enough room for HX5v

- Tiny external pocket

- Belt loop to attach it to your belt

I purchased this case to protect my new Sony Cybershot W150. It's a compact designed case and the camera fits nicely inside. However, the smaller compartment does not comfortably hold accessories, namely the battery case for the camera (it fits in the compartment but appears to stretch the case slightly). On top of that, this camera case does not come with a shoulder strap or clips to attach a shoulder strap; it's meant to be placed on your belt. It's good for protecting a compact cybershot camera, but if you prefer a case with a shoulder strap you'd be better off looking at a different case.

bought this for my DSW-150 the fit is great the protection is also great, someone made an issue about it not having a shoulder strap, mine did not come with any as well, for me that was not in issue, for security reasons, i carry mine in a bag or in my pocket. the case in not that big, there is room for the camera, there is a small pocket in front for a memory card, i can also carry the card reader in the pocket. Again this is a great buy, it has its purpose, if you need a bigger case, this is not for you, if you want a case that will provide you with adequate protection without the bulk, there is none better as a choice.

The case was supplied for a Sony DSC-HX5. However it is much too deep. The camera is shirt pocket size but once in the case it becomes really bulky. It bounces around in the case and you can almost fit another camera in with it. I will need to look for a new case. As I am overseas it is not worth returning it and will write this off as a bad purchase. They should not recommend a generic sony case which is too big for the camera.

I wanted a small case to go with my tiny new Sony TX7 so I bought this. This case has a nice quality look and feel to it, and the inexpensive price is nice. The TX7 is so small I actually would have liked the case to be slightly smaller - the TX7 sits fairly loose inside the case but is protected nicely. There's a pocket that looks like it could hold a battery and/or memory card/s. I do have one negative thing to say about this case and that is the zipper... If you're like me and treat your electronics lightly you'll want to be careful whenever taking the camera out so you do not slide your nice big touch screen across the metal zipper. If I would have thought about this before I would have instead bought the Sony LCS-CST which flips open with velcro. It is a minor flaw on an otherwise nice case.

Nice material, good stitching, almost waterproof, I gave it 4 out of 5 in because of one attribute which got 4/5 [Storage Capacity... details below].



The only problems I have with it are:

1) the space it has in the front pocket that could have been just a bit bigger to fit my extra battery and it's plastic casing a bit better;

2) the way you attach it to your belt could have been done a bit better, because if you're going to go on a roller coaster, I wouldn't recommend keeping it strapped to your belt :).



But I would gladly recommend this to anyone buying a Sony-H55 for how tight and nice it keeps the camera inside.

I can squeeze the camera in, lens side first, but the 'mode selector' dial is exposed. I can NOT squeeze an extra battery in the outside mesh pouch, certainly not with a case. I'd also be afraid to put memory cards in without their case as they'd be bent/broken over top of the camera.

Great quality, just a little too small. But then again, the price was right! - Digital Camera Case - Cybershot - Camera Case - Sony'

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Headphone Splitter - audio splitter, y cable

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I've used this splitter with a portable DVD player, and have been satisfied. There's not much to be said about the product. It works. You can easily adjust the volume, even in the dark.



If you ever buy a splitter, make sure that you buy one with adjustable volume. No two people will want the volume adjusted exactly the same when using headphones! Griffin SmartShare Headphone Splitter with Individual Volume Control

I don't know what Baltimore MW's problem is with this product. It met my expectations. It lets me plug two sets of ear plugs into my ipod. It is not too bulky, the volume control is a very nice feature, and I have not found it slide out of the plug. My wife and I plan to take it on a long plane ride and I believe it will let us listen to music in peace while letting me not have to listen to music at her volume (and she won't have to listen at my volume).

We bought this item for a family vacation. One of the kids has a video iPod and we wanted the kids to be able to both listen to the music during our car trip to Florida. The headphone splitter worked great, both kids were able to adjust the volume of the music independently, however the headphone splitter came apart soon after I gave it to them (within the first day). Keep in mind that I have two daughters and they were sitting right next to each other (I have a Honda Pilot, so it's not a HUGE space in the backseat). Both are pretty calm kids, so there was no roughhousing going on, I just think the weld was weak on the splitter.

I bought this splitter in hopes of being able to share my MP3 player with my husband when we were out and about. We are both in our early 40s, and neither of us has hearing problems, but we do tend to like our music at different volumes, so this sounded like a win to me.



I did read some reviews, but didn't get down far enough to see that other people were having the same problem I've had ... which is that "volume control" is laughable. The range of control is VERY narrow, and I can't actually discern a difference in volume level; the only difference is that the sound quality gets a little fuzzier at one end of the slide than the other. If you were hoping and expecting, as I was, that you could actually count on hearing your music at a different volume than your "partner," DON'T.



Sound quality seemed middling to me, and was slightly different between the two ports, strangely. I paid $4.00, but then the same amount again for shipping, and would rather have spent the money to see a movie. :-(

The splitter was helpful because it also doubled up as volume control for the individual connections. However, the volume control button is not very effective as it provides only a small range of control. Sometimes, you end up using the control on the audio device itself.

The Griffin Smartshare Headphone Splitter is a great product. My wife and I can, and do, watch movies together on my IBM laptop without disturbing the rest of the family. The dual volume controls is a great feature allowing total enjoyment at personal volume levels.

I got this thing so I could split the audio out from my MacBook when watching DVDs. My viewing companion and I each plug in our headphones to each end of the split consoles, each get good crisp sound, and each get to control the volume that comes through the wire. Only complaint would be to maybe have the sound control bar a little longer/broader to effect a broader volume control. But it's a minor quibble with an affordable smart product that performs a simple task ably.

Great for keeping two kids from beating each other down. Sliders for volume control a little loose and can be moved easily, but good level control. Do not leave this plugged into a laptop and move around. The pin with bend out of the body fairly easy. It still works, but the pin is at an angle. This is my fault, but the mold around the pin could be stronger.

just as the title describes! I purchased this for a road trip that has yet to take place, but I test drove it the second I got it out of the package. It does what it is supposed to, doesn't do what it isn't supposed to, and cost under ten dollars. I am satisifed with my purchase.

This item does the job it's supposed to do. The individual volume controls sounded as if they'd be handy but are sort of difficult to adjust - it's best to have the volume up all the way on the laptop, ipod, etc then each person can use their own volume adjustor to more accurately find a comfortable listening volume. - Headphones - Audio Splitter - Y Cable - 2009 Amazon Frustration-fre'

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