Lining your books is an art. If you've never done it before, find a book you don't care much about and experiment. After about the third book, you'll get it right.
This material is excellent but not as stiff as I've seen in the past; I am referring to other vendors. It is suple but will harden after a year so it is best to line your books at one time, say six or seven at a time. Throw this material away after a year or so because it gets stiff and brittle.It will also be hard to remove the covering material.
The best way to use this product is described below:
Tools: sissors, exacto knife or small 1- 1-1/2" pen knife.
Take the book and open it to make a rough cut of the material. You will to leave about 1-1/2" below and above for the flaps. Leave material for tieing down
the flaps. For large books lay the book out length-wise with the roll itself rather than parallel to the roll. Mark the future cuts with a permanent pen.
Ideally, if there is time, cut these strips and put books over them to flatten them so they won't curl while lining the book. Flattening takes about a day.
Use the sissors to cut the book liner. Leave 1-1/2" above and below the book dimensions.
To start lining the book, cut a triangular edge out of one of the corners. Cut deep enough to part the cover from the lining.
Pull the cover free but slowly and smoothly. You want to roll slowly to allow the adhesive between the cover and the lining to separate.
Now, pull the cover and liner apart and place the front of the book in the way you lined it up when you made a rough cut. Leave 1-1/2" above and below the book edges. Line the edge of the book first, then slowly roll the lining in place until it gets to the trench in front of the backing. Then, slowly pinch the lining into this trench. Use your fingers here but also use the outside palm of your hand as a squeggee (outside palm is opposite of the thumb). Now, roll the lining over the back. All the time push the bubbles towards the spot where the book meets the lining forcing the bubbles out. With the back done roll through the trench, pinch it in, then continue to the edge of the back cover.
With sissors cut the liner, careful not to catch the adhesive and wind up caught in your own web. Cut a rectangle around the book with enough room for the flaps.
Cut diagonal flaps for each of the edges: 4. Cut vertical cuts at the book binding, to let the liner breath; without this you run the risk of breaking the back of the book when the liner is attached. Fold the flap inward attaching them to the inside of the book. Take care to leave enough liner to hold the lining securely without using up all of the inside of the books. Cut strips to make vertical seals for the edges of the flaps: at least 2 each per diagonal flap. Seal any edges that look loose with additional cut strips.
Lastly, trim the book binding at the back of the book. Push inward to seal. Push any bubbles out.
Open and close the book to make sure the book binding can breath. If not, consider cutting the liner near one of the binding ridges.
If this review was helpful, please add your vote. Kittrich Rolled Adhesive Bookcover, 18 Inches x 9 Feet, Clear, 1 Roll (03-750-12)
I attempted to use this for hardcover textbooks with thick front and back covers.
The product adhered great to the flat surfaces of the front/back covers, but when I tucked the extra 1.5" around the edge onto the inside of the cover, these "flaps" wouldn't stay put -- it wasn't adhesive enough. I've never had this problem with other brands of contact paper. I had to resort to tape to secure these inside flaps; the other option would have been to trim the flaps altogether, but I like to protect the bottom and side edges of the book, as that's where most damage occurs.
My bottom line opinion: This product works great when it stays flat (e.g. laminating stuff), but don't rely on it for any applications where you need to bend, fold, wrap, or tuck a small edge or flap: the contact paper since it isn't sticky enough to hold its own. I'll be getting a different brand for future textbook-covering endeavors.
I covered 3 thick cookbooks and 1 paperback cookbook and have enough left for 1 more book. This product was fairly easy to apply and remove for repositioning. The instructions aren't very helpful where covering a book is concerned and on the first attempt, I had to remove and reposition the adhesive several times, but it became easier after that. When applying to books with dust jackets, I put a rolled piece of tape under the inside flaps to keep the dust jacket from moving around. Though not perfectly applied (with some bubbles here and there), I'm very happy with the results. I wanted something to protect the books and this adhesive works just fine.
Lining your books is an art. If you've never done it before, find a book you don't care much about and experiment. After about the third book, you'll get it right.
This material is excellent but not as stiff as I've seen in the past; I am referring to other vendors. It is suple but will harden after a year so it is best to line your books at one time, say six or seven at a time. Throw this material away after a year or so because it gets stiff and brittle.It will also be hard to remove the covering material.
The best way to use this product is described below:
Tools: sissors, exacto knife or small 1- 1-1/2" pen knife.
Take the book and open it to make a rough cut of the material. You will to leave about 1-1/2" below and above for the flaps. Leave material for tieing down
the flaps. For large books lay the book out length-wise with the roll itself rather than parallel to the roll. Mark the future cuts with a permanent pen.
Ideally, if there is time, cut these strips and put books over them to flatten them so they won't curl while lining the book. Flattening takes about a day.
Use the sissors to cut the book liner. Leave 1-1/2" above and below the book dimensions.
To start lining the book, cut a triangular edge out of one of the corners. Cut deep enough to part the cover from the lining.
Pull the cover free but slowly and smoothly. You want to roll slowly to allow the adhesive between the cover and the lining to separate.
Now, pull the cover and liner apart and place the front of the book in the way you lined it up when you made a rough cut. Leave 1-1/2" above and below the book edges. Line the edge of the book first, then slowly roll the lining in place until it gets to the trench in front of the backing. Then, slowly pinch the lining into this trench. Use your fingers here but also use the outside palm of your hand as a squeggee (outside palm is opposite of the thumb). Now, roll the lining over the back. All the time push the bubbles towards the spot where the book meets the lining forcing the bubbles out. With the back done roll through the trench, pinch it in, then continue to the edge of the back cover.
With sissors cut the liner, careful not to catch the adhesive and wind up caught in your own web. Cut a rectangle around the book with enough room for the flaps.
Cut diagonal flaps for each of the edges: 4. Cut vertical cuts at the book binding, to let the liner breath; without this you run the risk of breaking the back of the book when the liner is attached. Fold the flap inward attaching them to the inside of the book. Take care to leave enough liner to hold the lining securely without using up all of the inside of the books. Cut strips to make vertical seals for the edges of the flaps: at least 2 each per diagonal flap. Seal any edges that look loose with additional cut strips.
Lastly, trim the book binding at the back of the book. Push inward to seal. Push any bubbles out.
Open and close the book to make sure the book binding can breath. If not, consider cutting the liner near one of the binding ridges.
If this review was helpful, please add your vote. - Clear Contact Paper'
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