Friday, 19 November 2010
Chain Lube - topeak, oil
I am in a very dry dusty area and I ride a mountain bike almost exclusively in the desert 15 to 30 miles at a time. I have used ProLink for several years and am as satisfied as I can be with its lubricating qualities. I am picky about my bike maintenance and the possibilities if getting left on the trail in a 115 degree heat so I maintain my bike chain differently. I actually have 2 chains, one is on the bike, and the other is in the soup or drying. I start each ride with a clean and lubed chain, when I am through my chain comes off and goes in solvent for 24-48 hours, the bike is cleaned and inspected and a clean and lubed chain goes on. I use the 32 oz ProLink and dunk the whole chain after the solvent is rinsed and the chain has been hung and it is dry; I then let it drip for a few hours back into the container. I then cap the container and hang the chain upside down for another 12 or so hours, wipe it down with brake clean and install. The links are what need to be lubed, not the outside, which is why I use a rag with brake clean to wipe the outside so there is no oil film to atract dust. Works for me, may be too much effort for everyone. Pro Gold Products ProGold ProLink Chain Lube, 4oz
I've been riding quality bikes for more than 50 years and doing all the maintenance on them. I've used many different types of chain lube over those years and ProLink is the best. I wipe the chain down after every ride and relube prior to the next ride. Chain and chainring wear is now negligble.
This is a good chain lube. But, when applying it to the chain, it not only runs out the end of the nozzle, but between the nozzle and container. I bought two and both do the same thing. You can't squeeze to speed up application, just let it run out via gravity. - Cycling - Topeak - Oil - Chain Oil'
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